Oldboy's 82' Resto Rod... Final

[Hoosier Daddy]

Oh yeah, 65-66 Coronets are COOL! I was gonna mention the green rear quarter in the earlier pic of the shop looked like a Charger... but wasn't sure

[plskthompson1]

Green rear quarter, what green rear quarter? All I see is a black Z28 Camaro. What year is that? 67, 68, or 69?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Nah, the camaro is easy, look in the next stall behind the camaro... Maybe it's a 68' Torino, but the roof line sure looks like a 2nd generation Charger

[plskthompson1]

I see it now, but I still prefer the black beauty next to it.

[Oldboy]

Nope guys.. it's a 67 GT500 Shelby.

[robin1731]

Nope guys.. it's a 67 GT500 Shelby.

Eleanor, major drool right there. Got any pics?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Nope guys.. it's a 67 GT500 Shelby.

Oh MAN... How did I miss that! The color was a clue....

[AC/DC]

What a Bike, super nice

[Oldboy]

Well, here's whats new. I got my heads back from the machine shop and they took the .030 off with no problems. I still have to do the math to see exactly how much I have raised the compression ratio.

Next I have all my camshafts. My original 1100's a set of 1975 KO 1000 cams and a set of 1977 1000 cams.

The 1975's on the left, 1977 in the middle and the original 1100's on the right.

In the picture below you can see the fuel pump cam lobe on the KO 1975 cam is not as long as the 1977 cam or the 1100 cam. Did it use a different housing to drive the fuel pump?




Now its time to check the differences. In the picture below I have a degree wheel keyed to the front of the cam. I have a pointer near the top right of the degree wheel. Then I have a dial indicater on the first lobe behind the degree wheel. Please note all I am doing is checking duration
and lift in respect to the other camshafts, NOT in respect to the crankshaft.


Heres how I did it. You zero the indicater on the base circle of the cam, (this is the opposite side of the lobe). Then you rotate the cam slowly in the direction of engine rotation, but stop when the indicator reaches .050. Here you write down the reading on the degree wheel. Next you keep rotating in the same direction, up past maximum lift and back down the other side of the cam until you reach .050 before fully closing. Here you check the degree wheel again. You count the degrees in between the two. This is not the duration of the cam, just a checking device.I did this on all lobes of the right hand side camshafts. Here's what I found. First off the 1975 and 1977 cams are the same. I read they were elsewhere on ths form and this confirms it. Next, The GL 1000's cams rotated through 100 degrees on both the intake & exhaust. There lift was .278 on the intake and .265 on the exhaust. The GL1100 cam (the original one) checked out at 97 degrees on both intake and exhaust and .270 lift on the intake and .265 on the exhaust. There was pretty much 3 degrees less duration on the GL1100 cam. Now this 3 degress must be multiplied by 2 (cause the crank turns at have the speed of the cam) to give us 6 degress more duration. According to specs found on this web site and my service manual, the big differnce is in the closing of the intake and the opening of the exhaust. The intake valve of the GL1000 and the GL1100 both open 5 degress BTDC. the GL1100 closes 43 degrees ABDC, where the GL1000 closes 50 degrees ABDC a difference of 7 degrees. I got 6...close enough. The exhaust valve of the GL1000 and the GL1100 both close 5 degrees ATDC, but the GL1100 opens 45 degrees BBDC and the GL1000 is 50 degrees BBDC. a difference of 5 degrees. I got 6...again close enough So for the most part I pick up .008 lift on the intake valve and 6 degrees duration Plus or minus a degree.


I put the cam gear on the front of the degree wheel & marked it so ever cam had the wheel in the same spot.

Next...Head assembly. When I took the heads apart I marked the location of the valves. After cleaning, I checked all the clearances and tolerances. Everything checked out OK (some just). Then I lapped in all the valves this will ensure a good seal and obviously good compression. Then I installed new valve seals from Honda, I had problems with aftermarket ones on my other 1100. A little engine oil the stems and then springs installed.



And finally.. paint


At this time I'm still waiting for my 1983 GL1100 transmission gears which should be here in a week or two.....

[Mike-C]

Gents;
. . . And an AAR Cuda in the background. What's next a street Hemi or a 440 with a six pack?
Regards;
Mike (very jealous)
'84 Wing-Lite
'84 soon to be un-Interstate

[robin1731]

I'm just curious. All this work in checking the cam lobes and such but I didn't see anything about checking the valve spring pressures. The Honda manual does give specs for seat pressure. If you are using old stock springs they will have lost some pressure over the years. I'm sure you know it would be real easy to check and shim the springs as needed. Maybe you did but didn't say anything.

[Oldboy]

I'm just curious. All this work in checking the cam lobes and such but I didn't see anything about checking the valve spring pressures. The Honda manual does give specs for seat pressure. If you are using old stock springs they will have lost some pressure over the years. I'm sure you know it would be real easy to check and shim the springs as needed. Maybe you did but didn't say anything.

robin1731.... Your right, I didn't mention anything. The truth is I checked all the free height to specs (they were bang on) but then got lazy. I will take them off again and test pressures. I know the boys that do my machine work have a tester. Thanks for the kick in the pants....

[robin1731]

No problem, thats just the racer in me coming out I guess.

[winston]

I just thought I'd mention, there a guy in the Toronto Ontario area, his name is Larry Scott. He has parted out well over 100 wings and has parts
and parts and parts. This project would not have been possible with out him. Thanks Larry. If you need Goldwing stuff heres his email.
scott@netrover.com

Larry Scott is totally excellent. Also very "old school"...no web site, no lists, no pics, prefers a cheque in the mail.

If he says a part is good, it's good.

[Oldboy]

Yes Larry has been good help to me and I'd highly recommend him to any of you guys looking for stuff.

Meanwhile, I'm still waiting for gaskets clutches and gears to arrive, so I started fiddling with other stuff.

The first picture shows the difference between an old primary chain & a new one. The new one in the background does not lay down as flat as the old one. I'd try to remember to show the slack difference when I assemble the engine.


My honda dealership told me these are discontinued and at this time, and there are only 6 left. I'm not sure if thats here in Canada or world wide.

Next a little rotor work.....

I went for the drilled look, mainly because the rear rotor is so big it looked ....I don't know wierd?


I put a little over a 1,000 Kilometers (650 miles) last summer and I still spent an hour a rim cleaning.

And the last pic, is for Robin1731

A bag full of valve springs.