40 Build

[pierce]

Then place the 'plate' (completely unofficial name - have no idea what that might be) underneath where the alternator will go, and bolt just the top edge down as the other two will be held into place by the chain tensioner.

plate.jpg

Then orient the tensioner and bolt it down. It goes over the top of the 'plate'.

tensioner.jpg

I decided to place a 1200 stlye chain tensioner instead of the 75 - 77 (which is very minimal) and better designed than the earlier style.

Here is a comparison.

tensioers.jpg

tensionders2.jpg

[pierce]

Just above where the alternator is placed, place the oil guide.

oil guide.jpg

guide install with tensioner.jpg

The two bolts that secure the guide go through the top of the case. Make sure to use the correct crush washers otherwise you could have an oil leak.

external case botls.jpg

ex ca bolt 2.jpg

[pierce]

Shifter is next. Everything fits together pretty nicely, so it is hard to install incorrectly.

DSCF0845.jpg

Slide the parts together. This is how they are oriented when done. make sure to tighten down the single bolt and washer.

DSCF0859.jpg

DSCF0860.jpg

Close up:

DSCF0853.jpg

[Fred Camper]

The detailed description and pics make this interesting to watch.

[OhioBill]

I'll second the comment about the pictures. This sure would be a neat video.
Nice job.

[KYpondman]

Thanks for the writeup and pics. Great to follow along on your adventure.
Claude

[Old Fogey]

Shifter is next. Everything fits together pretty nicely, so it is hard to install incorrectly.

One important part isn't shown. There is a spacer that fits inside the coil of the big hairpin spring; very necessary for the spring to be able to do it's job



I would also like to point out that the hairpin spring 24651-371-000 should be renewed at this point. It is still available if you are prepared to search for it and costs about $7. This is the centering spring for the gearchange and a 30 odd year old spring is bound to have weakened over the years.

Also, check the pivot for the gearchange claw. I have a couple that are well worn, which causes excess lever movement to engage gears.



It's a no-brainer to do this at this stage. You really don't want to have to split the cases again, do you?

[pierce]

Thanks so much Old Fogey!

The reason why this is important is that is it weakens, it goes around the shaft that enters the left case. In other words, you can get to it by removing the front cover, but you have to split the case in order to get it off the shaft. There is no way around it, weak spring, split the case. So, take care of it now as if everything is done right the first time, there will never be a need to split the case again.

[pierce]

So I got my rings. Instead of spending an exorbitant amount on oem Honda rings I went with Hasting ring set for the Honda Civic (Honda Civic EB2 Hasting Rings 6116 STD). A set for all four pistons cost me 22 dollars. Not bad.

Hasting Ring Set.jpg

I then removed the old rings and let the pistons soak in Berrymans Chem Dip carb and parts dip. I use this all too often to remove carbon from pistons, valves etc. It looks like a can of paint, but it comes with a basket inside and you set the pistons in the basket and let soak for a few hours. Then rinse well with warm soapy water and they look like new.

The piston ring set comes with 5 rings, top and bottom compression

compression rings.jpg

and the oil rings. The two straight (non jagged) thin rings go on either side of the main oil ring.

oil ring.jpg

[pierce]

Install the rings from the bottom up. Oil ring goes in first, then install the thin bottom oil ring below it, then the one above it. The two surrounding ring ends should be placed an inch to either side of the main oil ring.

oil ring install.jpg

Then do the same for the compression rings. Take care to note any dots on the rings, as they should face the top of the piston.

ring dot.jpg

I know some swear by the piston ring installer, but even though I have one, I much prefer to use my hands. I spend more time fumbling around with the installer than anything.

I place one end into the appropriate groove, then gently use my thumb to slide ti around the piston and the ring slides right over the top and into he groove.

DSCF0892.jpg

DSCF0893.jpg

After the compression rings are installed, stagger the breaks a third apart (like a peace sign).

Just to be thorough, make sure that you read the manual before installing the rings. They need to be properly sized by sliding them into the cylinder and then tapping them even with the head of a piston. Then check the clearances. If they are too small, they need to be filed.

[sunnbobb]

Awesome

[Old Fogey]

Without wishing to highjack the thread, these pics might be useful






tap each ring down into the bore with the piston so that it is square to the bore. Use feeler gauges to measure the gap.





I use a small cheap vice to hold the ring for filing. Rings are very easily distorted when doing this if not supported properly.
Use a flat needle file and remove material a LITTLE at a time.... or you'll be buying another set of rings!





Make sure that your filing is one nice and square across the ring......

[Old Fogey]

Not like this ! ! !





Check your filing is squared end to end by squeezing the ring together.

[robin1731]

Don't forget to "break" the edges after filing them. You need to remove any burs that may be left from filing.

And be very cautious putting the rings on the pistons. I do it by hand also. The top ring is usually cast iron. So it can be boken pretty easily.

Then putting the assembly in the cylinder can be tricky too. Patience comes in handy here.

[pierce]

Thanks for posting those Old Fogey.

It is important to measure ring gap and make sure that each ring is to Honda spec.

The Hastings rings were all up to spec, so no filing needed to be done.