40 Build

[pierce]

Time to get the front case and water pump together. All in all really the worst is getting the cover off and cleaning everything. Getting it back on is a bit easier. However, it is very easy to miss o-rings, over torque crush washers, forget dowels, and they are all very important. These are all vital oil/coolant passages and even a missed o-ring can cause major problems - sometimes catastrophic if the oil and coolant start to mix.

So, lets get this done.

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[pierce]

I did not use a kit, so I ordered new crush washers for the water pump.

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And five dowels.

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I have the vesrah gasket kit so it provided the rest.

Brand new water pump as well. Mine as well put the two o-rings on the pump.

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[pierce]

Then place the water pump through the opening making sure to orient the three wholes correctly for the bolts on the reverse side.

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Flip it over and tighten the bolts down with the crush washers. The pump will lay flat in its housing when done. Do not over torque the bolts or the washers will crush too much. None of these bolts take much torque, so take it easy on them.

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Lays flat

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[ericheath]

Perfect timing. Gotta do this to three of them in the near future. Thanks again for sharing the pics and suggestions.

[pierce]

To get the pump housing on put the two dowels on, and then lay the gasket over the top.

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Then place the cover on top. Good time to put the coolant bolt on so it doesn't get lost.

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Bolt orientation. Two big ones, two smaller ones. The two big ones will attach to the short block. The two small to the front cover.

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Make sure to use anti-seize (copper) on the bolts. I always like to lay the bolts through the corresponding holes, then remove them one by one and put the anti-seie on then tighten them loosely.

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[pierce]

Oil bolt. Best get this in now so its not lost.

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Now the cover with the hose attachment.

Place the o-ring inside.

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Before tightening check, and double check that the gaskets and o-rings are not being pinched.

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Use anti-seize, and then tighten down.

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[pierce]

The front cover has five longer bolts. They go:

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The shorter bolts:

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and lastly

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[pierce]

Front of the case:

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Now the third dowel (two on the water pump cover) gets an o-ring.

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Then place it like so:

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Two different sized o-rings go here:

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Another one on the other side:

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Larger dowel with o-ring goes in the oil pump opening.

[pierce]

Larger dowel with o-ring goes in the oil pump opening.

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My preference is to place the gasket on the cover side held loosely with the bolts.

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Then slide the cover over the dowels. It will balance there briefly held in place by the dowels.

Note that the two other dowels I placed on the cover instead of the block. So 4 and 5 go here: (top and bottom - bottom has no bolt, just for alignment)

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[pierce]

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Then verify again that the gasket is going on correctly.

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One by one anti-seize the bolts, and hand tighten them.

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Then tighten and you are done.

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None of the bolts need real torque. My trick - stupid I know, but keeps me from damaging threads is to lay my arm down . The average human arm is roughly 5 percent of your entire body weight. So - well , that makes it just about right for me.

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[Roady]

Bang up job, Pierce, and excellent pics and description.

Hope you don't mind, I referenced your water pump/trans cover section in my Front Engine Renewal thread.

[Old Fogey]

Be aware that these O rings are different sizes in the early and late engines. Not all gasket manufacturers seem to know this!

[pierce]

Thanks again Old Fogey - I always use my micrometer to check sizes, and thickness of the o-rings. This has a lot to do with the gazillion o-rings I got in the complete engine kit, but it is also a good practice in general.

Also, this made me aware that this photo showing the o-rings does not show the larger dowel that the o-ring fits over. It is identical to the one placed on the oil pump end. I place the o-ring around the larger dowel and then slide it in place. So - make sure you have 7 dowels. Two large, and five smaller ones. The two larger ones get o-rings and fit onto oil passages, two as locators on the spout, and three that fit into the block. An o-ring is placed on one of the smaller dowels.

[pierce]

Thermo and coolant tubing.

Cleaned, sanded, painted etc, prep is done. All o-rings and gaskets are ready to go along with a new fan switch and thermostat, and I am reusing an old temp gauge that is in good working condition.

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[Old Fogey]

Just a quick point.

The 'ear' that the far right hand bolt goes in is drilled and tapped right through. I have had a number of cases where this has been broken off through someone trying to remove the bolt which has corroded in place due to water getting in from the rear.
It makes good sense to make sure that the bolt that goes in is a fraction shorter than the hole and then back fill it with JBWeld or similar to prevent this happening. This is perhaps not so critical if you are using stainless and putting them in with the proper anti-seize, but definitely do it if using mild steel bolts.