Fan thermo switch; is this right? (cheap FIX?)

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taunusrainer
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Post #16 by taunusrainer » Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:12 pm

I am very sure Your local Ford or GM dealer can match it up if You show him the fan switch, 8$ is reasonable, 100$ is crazy.
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Ray
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jacknj
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Post #17 by jacknj » Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:43 pm

Roady wrote:Okay, I finally got it.

...

The replacement Honda part and even the after-market ones are expensive ($45 to $100!). The one in my Ford does the same job for $8.


Roady - for those of us still looking, what year/model ford? for 8$ i'd love to replace mine.

thanks man!

-j

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Roady
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Post #18 by Roady » Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:36 pm

Ooops. that was misleading.

I meant that the one for my Ford is $8. Not that it's the one that fits in the GL.

I'm haunting the local parts stores now to find one that might work. Someone mentioned that the one from an Escort 1.6l Injected would work. But the one at AutoZone does not have a long sensor like the GL one does.

I'm still looking, anyone else have any idea which one?

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05c50
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Post #19 by 05c50 » Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:16 pm

I stumbled across a listing for a universal thermstatic switch in the JC Whitney catalog. It says that it's adjustable from 170-240 degrees. I think it's about $20. Might be something to look at.
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taunusrainer
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Post #20 by taunusrainer » Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:01 pm

But the one at AutoZone does not have a long sensor like the GL one does.

It has to be the right thread and the right switch temp, nothing else matters.
Guess it would be quite a business to offer machined adaptors for the 8$ Ford switches...
JC Whitney

has this one
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Sear ... rchbtn.y=0
but it won't fit into the thermostat housing

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Ray
1976 GL1000 test mule
1977 GL1000 in parts, rebuild in progress
1980 GL1100 Interstate

1969 Ford 17m 2.3V6
1976 Ford Cortina 2.3V6 (Propane)
1990 Mustang 5.0 7up conv.
1994 Volkswagen Polo (Propane)

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Post #21 by alan hawke » Fri Aug 10, 2007 7:42 pm

Thermo switch to suit a 1989- 2001 suzuki swift..... or..... 1996-2004 suzuki Alto will fit, same heat range ,same thread pitch . i have been using one in my bike for last twelve months or so works fine.
Alan



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tyring59
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reading up on them

Post #22 by tyring59 » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:31 am

Honda seem to use the same switch on more then the goldwing. Once I look it up in a online parts cat and it was the same number from 75 to 87 goldwings. I forget which other Honda's used it.
Anyway great info from the car guys because I ve been asking for years and no one seem to know if any car ones would work.
Went and bought a used one for 25 bucks.

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Re: reading up on them

Post #23 by octane » Sun Aug 12, 2007 2:49 am

tyring59 wrote:Honda seem to use the same switch on more then the goldwing. Once I look it up in a online parts cat and it was the same number from 75 to 87 goldwings. I forget which other Honda's used it. .


The following Hondas use the same switch:

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Post #24 by rcmatt007 » Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:28 am

I bet honda charges the same thing regardless of the model.... but it isn't only mother-honda that scr3ews you parts... I needed a thermostat for our saturn car once.... nobody, except saturn, made that kind of thermostat $$$$$
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Roady
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Post #25 by Roady » Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:47 pm

It took a while but I finally got the bike running again and can finish this thread. I don't think that I'd do it again like this but it works and I'm pleased.

I did some research and got indications that a fan switch from a Geo Metro, 3-cylinder (1.0L) matched the threads and temp rating. I couldn't get one locally so I found the part on RockAuto.com for $8.23 + $6.29 shipping. Click the Part Number Search tab and put in the mfg. and number.

Image

Details:
1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 993cc 61cid L3 TBI
Radiator Fan Temperature Switch. Mfg: Beck/Arnley, Part# 2011614.
(I see they're offering the closeout switches even cheaper now.)

So, here's the Geo switch (on the left) and the stock GL1100 switch.

Image Image

The Geo switch does not have the long probe that goes into the thermo housing. It also has a different connector. So I fashioned a pigtail from 4 inches of wire and bullet connectors.

Image

I shrink-wrapped it all and stole a black rubber foot off grandpa's cane and here's the finished product.

Image

I couldn't find any specs on what wire is which so I just chose one side to be green and one side to be white/red (I think those were the colors). Then I figured if it didn't work I could switch them.

Amazingly, it works! Fan comes on when it should and all is well.

UPDATE: Though this switch worked I ended up replacing it with an OEM switch (about $80) when I later replaced the water pump and head gaskets.
Last edited by Roady on Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post #26 by WingerDave » Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:26 am

Just a little bit of info..............

The fan switch off of a 1980 Honda Civic is the same range and, basically, exactly the same unit BUT..... a smaller thread (2mm smaller). It's also about a 5th of the price. One way of commanding a high price.

The American Escort was built on a Mazda 3 chassis (as was the Australian Mercury and a few other cars of that period) Talk about Globalization !!!!.

There are even Nissan Bluebirds from the late 80's with BMW front suspension....... problems with supply between Japan and the assembly plant in England.

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Roady
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Post #27 by Roady » Thu Sep 27, 2007 1:21 am

If I could find one with the same connector that would solve the problem. But then it'd have to have the same size thread, eh?

Wouldn't you think it would be easier if more mfg's used the same parts to do the same jobs.

Sheesh! Guess they like to make more money, eh?

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Post #28 by rcmatt007 » Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:37 am

Roady wrote:
Wouldn't you think it would be easier if more mfg's used the same parts to do the same jobs.


or put things like light switches and windsheild wiper switches in the sma eplace.... naw, would be to easy
-Rodger-
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978,
76 Ltd "cookies bike" up and running,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, (being repainted and apart)
05 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35846
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RB
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Post #29 by RB » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:50 pm

Not to high jack the thread but..a PO permanently wired the fan tot eh ignition somehow so it comes on where I turn the key on to start the bike. I'd like to put a switch in the wire so I can at least turn it off when starting the bike. What I need to know is where the fan wires hit someplace easy to get to on the frame so I can wire in a switch and place it in a handy location.

I figure I can cut in anyplace to do this..but having trouble tracing/finding the fan wires..I can see them coming out of the thermo unit but they disappear behind that metal sheet behind the radiator..when do they come out????

This is on an 80 1100
Last edited by RB on Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
98 1500 SE..
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Post #30 by AttilaB » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:13 am

I as well did the RockAuto part #2011614. After a little soldering & crimping and such, took her out for a spin and lo and behold - the fan turns on when she's supposed to!!!
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