Swing Arm Bearings- removing and fitting

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Old Fogey
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Swing Arm Bearings- removing and fitting

Post #1 by Old Fogey » Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:21 pm

Bill Bell sent me a PM asking for info on doing this. I sent him this in reply, then thought it might be good to post it here for anyone else doing this job.

There is a long post on NGW about this; click here which may help.
I'm sure that I put further info on too but I cannot find it; the search engine on there isn't the best!

basically the procedure is;

1) remove rear wheel

2) undo right shock bolt

3) remove final drive pumpkin

4) remove circlip from inside splined joint and remove the splined joint

5) peel back the rubber boot from the arm at the universal joint

6) undo left shock bolt but leave bolt in to support the weight for the moment

7) remove the rubber covers from each side swing arm nut.

8) undo the two large locknuts. They are only locknuts so they don't need to be removed

9) put an axle stand or something similar central underneath it at the pivot end to catch the weight of the arm

10) with a large allen key unscrew the pivot bolt from each side. Again, they don't need to be unscrewed right out, you will feel the arm drop when each one is out far enough.

11) pull the left shock bolt out, pull the arm to the rear remembering that the prop shaft is still there.

12) catch prop and tie it up out of the way.

13) put your new bearings in the freezer while you do the next lot.

14) this is the bearing layout Image

ignore the notes on the image since you have already bought your bearings.

15) pull off the rubber bearing seals

16) slide out the pivot collars 52141-371-000. Check the condition of these as they form the inner race of the bearings. If they are damaged in any way replace them.

THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE NEW OEM ( Well, not that I have found anyway, but I can now supply this part. Click on the website link in my signature)(Update: I have discontinued this part for the moment).

17) the pivot thrust bush 52109-371-000 is next. Be VERY carefull with these as they are brittle and break easily and guess what?

THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE NEW. I was lucky and mine came out easily.
( Again, I can now supply an alternative to this part. Go here for an alternative method: http://www.wingovations.com/#/wingovati ... 4540064053 ).

DO NOT TRY TO LEVER THEM OUT BY USING A SCREWDRIVER OR SIMILAR UNDER THE OUTER EDGE.

If they are tight in the swing arm I would do it this way.
18) warm the bearing housing with a propane torch or similar and using a punch that will go through the thrust bush punch one bearing into the swing arm. Retrieve the bearing from the shaft tunnel

19) using a long piece of round bar through the open hole, GENTLY knock out the other bearing and thrust bush out from the inside.

20) carefully, using a socket or similar that just slides into the swing arm on your long bar or socket extension, VERY gently knock out the remaining thrust bush from the inside.

21) give everything a good clean

22) get new bearings from the freezer, heat up the swing arm again ( it only needs to be warm), tap the bearing into the housing using a suitable sized socket. It only needs to go in far enough so that the thrust bush sits against the swing arm, about 2mm.

23) repeat for the other side

24) lube the bearings with molybdenum disulphide ( MoS2) based grease such as used in auto CV joints

25) check the condition of the pivot bolt 90121-371-000. These are available new.

26) unless they are damaged, do not attempt to remove the pivot nuts in the frame that the pivot bolt screws through. They are fitted extremely tightly into the frame housing.

27) lube and insert the thrust bushes and the pivot collars and replace the rubber dust seals. If your seals, 52145-371-000, are damaged or missing they are very difficult to find new.
Randakk is having a mould made and we will be able to supply these shortly.

28) re-assemble swing arm by reversing above procedure

29) the adjustment of the pivot bolts is critical.

first screw the pivot bolts into the frame with the locknuts on them such that there is about two threads of the pivot bolt showing to the outside of the nuts. Screw the right hand bolt in and tighten the nut so that there is only about one thread showing.

Screw the left bolt in and tighten to 7ft/lbs. Then tighten the locknut.

Check that the arm moves up and down freely. If not, slacken the left one off a fraction until it does.

30) one thing I forgot to do when I did mine. When you put the rear pumpkin back on put the wheel spindle in to line every thing up before you tighten the housing nuts.

Phew!!! I could have done the job for you faster than typing all this out. Hope it all helps. If I've missed anything let me know.

Cheers,
John
Last edited by Old Fogey on Mon Dec 02, 2013 5:01 pm, edited 7 times in total.
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Whiskerfish
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Post #2 by Whiskerfish » Thu Sep 04, 2008 8:58 pm

Very good!! About time we got a how too on this. # 25 is where I got stuck on mine. I was striping a frame to send off for blasting and powdercoating. That is what I had to use the weight of my truck on to press out. They are a bugger.
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and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

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Post #3 by cycleman » Wed May 06, 2009 10:30 am

Just a additional torque spec. The locknut torque is 58-87 ft lbs.

Also the way I read the shop manual for the GL1000, the right pivot stays at 2 threads out and the left pivot is the only one you turn in. My guess is to align or center the swingarm and set the proper amount of clearance. Similar to the wheel bearings on an axle, if they don't have enough clearance they tight up when they get hot & will seize. Granted the swing arm doesn't move much but it still would generate heat as it is constantly moving.
Currently own: Restored 1977 Goldwing
Current project: Restoring 78 CB750F
Previous bikes: XJ650, GS550, XT500, 77 Goldwing, and a few others

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Dannyj29Texas
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Swing Arm Bearings- removing and fitting

Post #4 by Dannyj29Texas » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:07 pm

I'm about to undertake this task. The bike has 64k on it and I don't believe they have ever been serviced. There is some side to side play in the swing arm and I had noticed a clunk sometimes when taking off.
I found the parts online and they also had the dust cover. I'm sure that it is an aftermarket part, but I didn't want to take the chance of breaking it and not having another. Anyway I hope to follow your step by steps. I copied the URL where I purchased the parts. When I figure out how to post pictures of this project I'll include them with my results.

Thanks

DT

:shock:

OK I tried to post the URL
altusmotorsports.
GL1000 LTD
1977 CB750 Four
Getting old is not for the weak

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Dannyj29Texas
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Swing arm bearing replacement

Post #5 by Dannyj29Texas » Sat Oct 03, 2009 4:44 pm

Thanks Old Fogey, great post. I followed your destruction's with no problems. Finished the tank de-rusting and working on painting it now. Next is fixing an old starter circuit plug that at one time had gotten a little warm. I'll be over on the carb posts next, letting everybody know what not to do.

DT
GL1000 LTD

1977 CB750 Four

Getting old is not for the weak

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Neil
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Post #6 by Neil » Sat Oct 03, 2009 5:49 pm

Nicely done John, thanks.


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