wiring help...one more time

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revjim
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wiring help...one more time

Post #1 by revjim » Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:21 pm

Okay...I have my toggle switch...I am wiring my front spot lights...They have one positive white wire coming out of each...the ground wire is aready nutted down in the light. I have two spots on the front...do I combine them and take the to the toggle...and then take another wire from the toggle to the positive on the battery??? Thanks guys!!
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Post #2 by sunnbobb » Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:33 pm

Hey ya Jim,

you might consider putting a relay in that circuit. It really cuts down on the current draw, and is really easy to do. The basic idea is your hand operated switch operates a switch that turns on the light circuit for the lights. (think remote control) The light circuit is direct between the battery and the light that way and does not have to go through your hand switch.
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Post #3 by rcmatt007 » Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:43 pm

put a fuse
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Post #4 by Whiskerfish » Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:02 am

Yes Jim your hot wire goes through the switch to the battery. As Rodger recommends a Fuse in line close to the battery is a good safety to prevent a chaffed wire killing your bike in the future.
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Post #5 by revjim » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:22 pm

okay...so from my toggle to the battery the sequence is this....TOGGLE> RELAY or FUSE> BATTERY....
good???
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Post #6 by sunnbobb » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:30 pm

You got it toyota. in the following diagram, you would run the "switched power" to your toggle and then back to the battery. This is the right way to wire a set of fog lights. The relay switches the heavy current to the fog lights with big wire, while the dashboard switch wiring can be very small. This keeps high current and large wires out from under the dash and in the engine compartment where they belong. A typical set of 55 watt lights will draw about 8 amps for the pair. The dash switch will pull only about 0.3 amps to operate the relay.

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Why use a relay?

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Last edited by sunnbobb on Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:58 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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Post #7 by rcmatt007 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:31 pm

the line from my battery to my horn relay is as such + terminal->fuse as close to + as possible->line to relay...

anytime you run a line off the positive terminal fuse it as close to the battery as possible in case it shorts some where
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The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978,
76 Ltd "cookies bike" up and running,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, (being repainted and apart)
05 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
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donspicer1

fuse

Post #8 by donspicer1 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:33 pm

battery + > fuse > toggle switch > lamps. tie the lamps together, then connect to that jumper wire.

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Post #9 by puffy75 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:58 pm

I have mine wired to the relay sunnbobb referred to and I have the toggle wired to the black curcuit (hot after ignition) This keeps anyone from turning on the lights when the key is off or in your pocket. Nice diagram sunnbobb
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Post #10 by revjim » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:42 pm

what if I didn't want to wire to the fuse box from the toggle...what if I could just turn it off and they would be off from the toggle or on from the toggle...thanks.
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Post #11 by revjim » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:46 pm

do I really have to use a RELAY? Would it hurt the bike not too...
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I'm sorry.. revjim

Post #12 by donspicer1 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:47 pm

I don't follow your question.

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Post #13 by rcmatt007 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:47 pm

I use a relay on my horns as they draw more power than the stock horns, so rather than shunt more power through the horn switch (causing it to burn out earlier) I shunt the power through a relay.

however, if you are just toggling on and off the running lights and they are on dedicated wiring, you don't need a relay
-Rodger-
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978,
76 Ltd "cookies bike" up and running,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, (being repainted and apart)
05 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Post #14 by CYBORG » Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:07 pm

rcmatt007, i understood he was running "spot lights". i'm a big fan of relays for most all circuits, but i think in the case of spot lights[which i consider to be those big bright ones on the front],a relay and the proper size wire are a must....not an option. just my 2cents :)
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Post #15 by rcmatt007 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:16 pm

certainly if they big draw lights, I agree
-Rodger-
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978,
76 Ltd "cookies bike" up and running,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, (being repainted and apart)
05 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35846
http://s199.photobucket.com/user/rcmatt ... ion?sort=2
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