How To Lubricate The Rear Drive Splines

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sodbuster
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How To Lubricate The Rear Drive Splines

Post #1 by sodbuster » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:52 pm

You need to grease your drive splines each time you change your rear tire. This is true for all shaft drive bikes, regardless of brand. The drive splines get surprisingly hot. Additionally, there's a lot of pressure on the splines and a lot of back and forth sliding motion. Any liquid type of grease will quickly be squeezed out of the splines, and leave you with no protection.

The ONLY grease that should be used on the spline is genuine Moly 60 paste (60% molybdenum disulfide). A lot of greases now say "Moly" on the container, but dont come close to the Moly 60 paste. Moly 60 is a dry lubricant which bonds to the metal surfaces, offering lubrication properties even when the parts have squeezed everything liquid out. Part number for Honda Moly 60 Paste in a 3 oz. tube is 08734-0001

(UPDATE: Reports from the Valkyrie Riders website VRCC are saying that MOLY 60 is not holding up and you'll get rust over time. I recommend using GuardDog 525. It is 30% moly and has been tested and designed for motorcycle use. http://www.guarddogmolylubricants.com/

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With your rear wheel off the bike, the drive splines will be exposed. Clean off any existing grease with whatever means available (Rags, Q-Tips, Paper towels, etc). You'll likely need some solvent like Kerosene or Gasoline to get them clean (I used lacquer thinner). You want the surfaces to be CLEAN & DRY prior to applying the paste. Also, before you remove the wheel side spline from the wheel, scribe (or use a magic marker) it's orientation so it goes back in the same holes.

The drive side spline has a splined gear that extends outward, and rotates as the driveshaft rotates.

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The wheel side spline has a splined gear that accepts the drive side spline.

Now put Moly-60 paste on the exposed splines. The idea here is to more or less paint the splines - you're not looking for a large volume of grease, like you would use on a wheel bearing. It's helpful to use a clean solder flux brush to spread the grease.

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Coat the sliding pins on the wheel side spline as well.

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Before assembling the wheel side spline, clean out the sliding pin bores of the wheel. A 20 ga. gun cleaning brush in a drill works good for this.

Now, coat the wheel hub and o-ring with some Moly 60 and assemble the wheel side spline to the wheel.

That's it. Now assemble the wheel and drive unit to the bike. While you're at it now would be a good time to change the gear drive oil too.
Last edited by sodbuster on Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:10 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #2 by rogue1000 » Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:46 am

That has come just in time; I'll be pulling the rear after the first for a new tire and I was looking for just this sort of "How to". Thanks :)
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Post #3 by Sagebrush » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:00 am

I have a friend who owned a Valkyrie, after he got some significant miles on the bike he began having issues with his final drive. Rebuilt it twice over a couple of years. Then he found that if he lubricated his splines like Roady points out his final drive woes were over. He finally sold that bike with over 160,000 miles on the clock.

Good tip Sodbuster.
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Post #4 by Neil » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:30 am

Thank you for taking the time to put that together ... timely indeed, rear coming off this Saturday 8)

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Post #5 by sodbuster » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:39 pm

Also, you'll find that the BMW shops are using this as well. The tube cost me $9.95 + tax
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Post #6 by heraldhamster » Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:57 am

is there any way to re-orient the splines correctly if the wheel was taken off by a P.O.?
or do you just want it to get back on the way it has been for the last several hundred or thousand miles?

yeah cleaning the residue from the previous batch can be a real b*tch.
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Post #7 by sodbuster » Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:09 am

heraldhamster wrote:is there any way to re-orient the splines correctly if the wheel was taken off by a P.O.?
or do you just want it to get back on the way it has been for the last several hundred or thousand miles?

yeah cleaning the residue from the previous batch can be a real b*tch.


The splines themselves don't need to be re-oriented it's just the sliding pins in the holes of the wheel. I noticed that if I indexed the pins to the next hole in the wheel that the wheel side spline carrier didn't want to slide in and out very good like it was binding. So I just kept indexing it until I got it to slide properly.
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Post #8 by Ole Guy » Sat May 02, 2009 4:25 pm

Pretty cool article. First time I have heard anyone mention the final-drive-hub lube. Excellent work here. I am sure mine needs a brushing or two.
Last edited by Ole Guy on Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #9 by heraldhamster » Sun May 03, 2009 3:28 pm

sodbuster wrote:...The splines themselves don't need to be re-oriented it's just the sliding pins in the holes of the wheel. I noticed that if I indexed the pins to the next hole in the wheel that the wheel side spline carrier didn't want to slide in and out very good like it was binding. So I just kept indexing it until I got it to slide properly.


ah! thanks.
sorta bulldogged custom 1978 GL1000 - "geekster" - daily rider
full Vetter dress 1979 GL1000 - "Barge" - daily rider (currently down)
1978 for $100 - project in worx
1978 from a previous member here - taking up space
my original '79 bought in '91 - replacing engine

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A competent and self-confident person is incapable of jealousy in anything. Jealousy is invariably a symptom of neurotic insecurity. ~ Robert A. Heinlein

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My flange won't come off

Post #10 by tk1971 » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:40 pm

I'm in the process of getting ready to re-assemble my rear end, but I can't get the flange off. My impression from the manual and this thread, is that it pulls right off. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

Tony
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Re: My flange won't come off

Post #11 by sodbuster » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:47 pm

tk1971 wrote:I'm in the process of getting ready to re-assemble my rear end, but I can't get the flange off. My impression from the manual and this thread, is that it pulls right off. Am I missing something?


It may need a little coaxing with a tire iron or something similar. I know the first time I removed mine that's what I had to do.
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Post #12 by sunnbobb » Mon Jul 13, 2009 12:41 am

I had a tough one too. I ended up using a wheel puller with a bar across the hub and the flange came right out.
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crowbar

Post #13 by tk1971 » Tue Jul 14, 2009 8:48 am

Got it off. As suggested, I used the "Key to the City"... err, I mean a crowbar.

Thanks once again.

tk
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Just finished the project!

Post #14 by DutchPurrpl » Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:27 pm

Hey, just letting you know I finished a combination of this project and several more "while the wheels were off". Thanks to all who have contributed to this wealth of great information. I figure I saved over $1000 by doing the front engine work, the timing belts, and the drive spline while the rims were in for new Dunlop Elite IIIs. Total cost for all (minus tires) was about $140. Of course, that's in addition to the great satisfaction and bonding with the machine. Thanks again for all your help.
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Re: Just finished the project!

Post #15 by dutchpurrpl » Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:20 pm

DutchPurrpl wrote:Hey, just letting you know I finished a combination of this project and several more "while the wheels were off". Thanks to all who have contributed to this wealth of great information. I figure I saved over $1000 by doing the front engine work, the timing belts, and the drive spline while the rims were in for new Dunlop Elite IIIs. Total cost for all (minus tires) was about $140. Of course, that's in addition to the great satisfaction and bonding with the machine. Thanks again for all your help.
Dutch.


Just wanted to let y'all know this is my new address. The old account wouldn't work right anymore, so Roady deleted it and gave me this one. Although I lost my "lead" cred, it's still me, and I've put on about 200 miles since that previous post, including@ 80+ mph. Runs great, solid as a rock! I did have to retighten the water pump housing bolts twice, as they work in a little after heating and cooling.
Just one thing: how do I get rid of the vision of the front wheel studs coming loose, the wheel going flying, and the fork digging into the highway, launching me into a thousand foot arc?
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