I've seen this subject come up on many occasions, so some points to doing the clutch
1) remove the clutch lever cover
2) Slacken the cable adjusters right off and remove the cable from the lever
3) Remove the clutch cover
4) Slowly and evenly using a diagonal technique undo the six bolts that hold the clutch pressure release plate. If you are not careful with this the pressure release plate can crack!
5) Using some large repair type washers under them, put the bolts back on three of the springs and tighten them down. (They don't have to be tightened right up, finger tight to the spring carrier will do). As you will note, I used some flanged nuts which were perfect for the job.
6) bend the locking tab of the centre nut lock washer back.
7) If the engine is still in the frame, put the bike in 1st gear and have someone stand on the rear brake, or tie the lever down somehow.
If it's out of the frame, use a spanner on the crankshaft timing pulley bolt.
Some folk advocate using the alternator rotor bolt, but IMHO there is too much danger of slacking that bolt off. If the rotor gets loose it will destroy the splines on it's shaft in very short order and probably the stator as well!
8) Undo the centre nut, it's a normal right hand thread. Please, please use the correct tool for this. They are not dear, about the same price as the screwdriver you were going to ruin by hammering the nut off!
9) If the engine is in the frame, remove the bolts and springs and then the plates.
If the engine is on the bench the whole plate pack can be lifted out as a unit if you leave the springs and nuts in place.
10) when rebuilding, just reverse the procedure. Use a new locking washer, don't forget the Belville washer which goes in with the convex surface towards the nut and the spirals on the friction plates go anti-clockwise as you look at the clutch.
11) Lastly, the housekeeping. Make sure you clean out any old clutch material from the bottom of the cases around the scavenge pump.