Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

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dwayne_hopkins
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Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #1 by dwayne_hopkins » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:28 am

Roady and Olered67 requested I post a couple of how-tos here so here goes. There will be a bit more detail in these than my resto post.

I was shocked (literally :!: ) by the condition of the spark plug wires on my girlfriends '82 GL1100I. Besides leaking electrons everywhere, they were as stiff as a clothes hanger. I tested all four spark plug caps as well, and all four failed. The coils tested fine. I decided to replace the wires on the bike, and set off to get copper core wire at a local auto parts place.

What is the world coming to? Not a single place carried copper core wire! :shock: :x I remember when you could buy it by the foot from a spool...OK, enough reminiscing. One place recommended I get it from the Internet, so I did.

I bought new NGK caps, spark plugs (current set were the wrong heat range), and a set of 7 mm black copper core ignition wires. These items can all be bought from Crescent Moon. When the parts arrived, I removed the coils from the bike. This allowed for easy disassembly and cleaning. I then removed the ignition wires from the coils.

I decided to remove the original sleeving and wire numbers (if still there), and place them on the new wires. To remove the sleeving and wire numbers, I slicked them up with brake parts cleaner. This stuff is great, it makes the wire very slippery, but leaves no residue. I placed the hose from the can under the edge of the sleeving to get them lubricated, but that was not required on the numbers. They all came off easily.

When I was finished, I had one wire number each for wires 1, 2 and 3, and both for number 4. The others had long since disappeared. I also had the sleeving for all four wires.

Next I took a new ignition wire, cut the end cap off, and started working the sleeving and wire number back on. Use brake parts cleaner again to lube everything, but it will not be as easy as the removal. Patience wins out.

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After the sleeving and wire number(s) are put on, the spark plug cap and coil cap assembly completes one wire. Repeat three more times. The spark plug caps screw firmly on to the end of the wire, don't forget to put the dust boot on first. The coil cap assembly consists of the plastic nut, a seal, and a washer. If they are in bad shape or anything is missing, replace them (also available from Crescent Moon).
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The completed set, with boots. If you do not like how the boots fit around the raised "NGK" you can grind this off, or you can remove the resistors from the NGK caps and place them in the OEM caps (if they are in good shape). I did not worry about the letters, I have had the same caps on my GL1000 for over 20,000 miles with no problems.
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Finishing touches were to clean all the contacts and connections (including the ground at the coils mount), greasing all of the contacts with dielectric grease (except the ignition wire connections), and testing the ballast resistor. I then put the coils back in, and hooked everything up. She did idle smoother once this was completed, and an annoying erratic exhaust "pop" went away.
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Last edited by dwayne_hopkins on Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hoppy
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1976 GL1000
1977 CB750A
(Gave 1980 Yamaha XS850SG to Bro-In-Law)
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Roady
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Post #2 by Roady » Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:49 pm

Another great writeup.

I got my solid core copper wires at Tractor Supply Co. I just bought a generic set for a 4 cyl. tractor and reused all of my existing end caps, sleeves and numbers.

Nice job there, Hoppy!

Sent to ShopTalk.

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Hoosier Daddy
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Post #3 by Hoosier Daddy » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:25 pm

Hurah!
Nice write-up...Thanks!
Bulldoged '81 GL1100 "BOMBER!" BUILD THREAD
Bratstyle '80 GS750L "OVERKILL"
Cafe'd '81 CB750C "ROCK-IT"
Basket Case '72 CB450 K5 "NO CLASS"
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rainstromrider say's I'm "addicted to the build"... I think he might onto something :)

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Post #4 by ndeconte » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:30 pm

I have a question on this process.......... Will this work with 76 coils? I think the wires are intergrated right into the coils, just going by memory right now.

I have one plug wire cracked big time, hoping I don't have to purchase whole coil units.
Neal R DeConte
76 GL1000

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dwayne_hopkins
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Post #5 by dwayne_hopkins » Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:21 am

ndeconte wrote:I have a question on this process.......... Will this work with 76 coils? I think the wires are intergrated right into the coils, just going by memory right now.

I have one plug wire cracked big time, hoping I don't have to purchase whole coil units.


You can get splices, Crescent Moon has 'em, if the wires are good close to the coils. Otherwise, replace with GL1100 type coils or aftermarket such as Accel.
Hoppy
GWRRA FL-1O
1976 GL1000
1977 CB750A
(Gave 1980 Yamaha XS850SG to Bro-In-Law)
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Post #6 by dwayne_hopkins » Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:24 am

Roady wrote:Another great writeup. I got my solid core copper wires at Tractor Supply Co. Sent to ShopTalk.


Thanks Roady! I tried the TSC here, and they did not have copper core wires. When I went to Auto Zone and asked for copper core ignition wire, they led me to the 12 gauge primary wire...
Hoppy
GWRRA FL-1O
1976 GL1000
1977 CB750A
(Gave 1980 Yamaha XS850SG to Bro-In-Law)
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Post #7 by Roady » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:01 am

It's a pain trying to find good wire.

I was tempted to just get a 100' roll off the web, found a good price and everything. Then I stumbled on the TSC ones and couldn't resist (something like 8 or 10 bucks!).

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Re: Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #8 by andy29847 » Sun May 23, 2010 8:40 pm

I used this Accel kit I bought at Advanced Auto. The writing on the back of the box talks about 8mm wire but the wire inside is 7mm. The lit cost $23.95 in South Carolina. There is enough wire to do 2 Goldwings.

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Andy Simons
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Re: Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #9 by Victour » Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:48 am

Which coils are you using ? I understand some Oem Coils on cars have the 2 wire coils. Maybe with internal resistors ? The PO installed or had installed Dyna-s Ign.. and use the stock Ballast and added another 2 ohm resistor sent by Dyna. The instructions say to disconnect the Stock 3 Ohm Ballast and just use the Dyna one.. the po hooked them up in parallel which made a total of 1.8 ohms... Which is correct?. I would just like to replace both of them with a 1.8 Ohm Resistor, with a higher wattage .

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Re: Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #10 by 82A » Tue May 24, 2011 10:20 pm

How necessary are the sleeves for the wires? I'm trying to get my '82 going but it's just not firing. I replaced the wires quite awhile ago during this rebuild and didn't bother putting the sleeves back on. There is spark at the plugs but could it still be a wire issue?

Thanks
Kerry Haight
Kingston, Ontario
1982 GL1100A (the current project)
1978 GL1000 (the next project)

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Victour
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Re: Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #11 by Victour » Wed May 25, 2011 2:45 pm

I don't think you need the Sleeves ! there is not a Heat problem and the quality of wire now days is so much Higher.
Mine are bare and work fine...

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Re: Ignition Wire Rebuild, GL1100

Post #12 by rod willis » Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:34 pm

If you need plug wire and can not get bulk 7mm wire buy a set for a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle
and you don't care you can use the plug caps that come with the wires in the box
Rod
rod willis
1976 GL1000


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