Main Fuse and wiring

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Main Fuse and wiring

Post #1 by Whiskerfish » Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:32 pm

Several threads lately about Intermittent power problems. The Factory Main Fuse is refered to as a "dog bone" fuse seen in the gray rectangle in the picture below from the manual. It is rated for 30 AMPS.

Image


The Problem is that many look like this or worse!!

Image

Where is it you might ask!! Well it is not there. Apparently the Previous owner had a problem and he just took it out and ran the entire bike without a fuse. That results in things like this
Image


Notice the charred wires and the melted connector. This bike was very close to a electrical fire or at a minimum burning out the rectifier and stator.



So the solution is cheap and easy to do. I have a picture of a completed one but unfortunately I do not have any pics of the process.


Image

The process is very simple. Cut out the entire Fuse assembly and replace it with a modern 30 amp mini fuse. The holders with wires attached are just a few dollars at most any Auto parts stores. Crimp a terminal on the end that attaches to the Starter Relay and preferably use solder to attach the other end to the main power line (a crimp type butt splice will do if you do not have the equipment/ skills to do a proper soldering job). I used solder then heatshrink then for additional peace of mind I wrapped it in electrical tape. It looks good, works great, and if you ever do have a problem these type of fuses are available and at gas stations or auto parts stores.
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Post #2 by dps3006 » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:18 pm

I just got around to looking at my main fuse the other day. What I found was no fuse.....just a piece of bare wire jumped between where the fuse should have been. I already have the blade type fuse holder and will install before starting the bike again; which may be a while up here in cold, snowy Buffalo, NY.
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Post #3 by heraldhamster » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:56 pm

huh, so I've got a 30amp spade fuse installed inline on the one in Eugene. I guess I can get rid of those spare dog bones. I've been wondering what they were for. I'll have to check the '79 and see.

thanks WF!

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Post #4 by Cookie » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:58 pm

A good simple process. I like circuit breakers too. You can velcro a little fuse box somewhere convenient with a spare.
BMW types don't have all the room a wing does so I put a spare fuse box in the headlight shell like in this picture. You could probably put a spare next to the battery.

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Post #5 by ElPiloto » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:27 pm

If your local auto parts store doesn't stock the weatherproof inline fuse holder for high amp spade fuses, try your local car audio installation shop. They always have a nice selection of fuses and breakers.
Last edited by ElPiloto on Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #6 by mooseheadm5 » Tue Feb 19, 2008 2:28 pm

Well that answers my question about what it should look like. So, did you just do away with the burnt connectors altogether and solder them together at the other end of the fuse? I need to do just that. Wire nuts unprotected from the weather... dumb. What's black and crusty and hangs from the ceiling?



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Post #7 by Whiskerfish » Tue Feb 19, 2008 3:52 pm

mooseheadm5 wrote:So, did you just do away with the burnt connectors altogether and solder them together at the other end of the fuse?


Yes that is exactly what I did.
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

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Post #8 by rcmatt007 » Tue Feb 19, 2008 4:33 pm

so I admit.... to get home after my dogbone "screwed the pooch" I hard wired the puppy, and then put in the spade like you suggest, and threw the old one in the liter (anymore puns to add?) oh yes, when it went out getting off the freeway it was a real b*tch hot wiring it byt the side of the road :roll:

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Post #9 by Cookie » Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:43 pm

I was asked to post on a breaker installation and I picked one up at after work. I think there is a better type for you guys though that would install easier. I'll try to get one of those tomorrow.
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Post #10 by Sidecar Bob » Sat Feb 23, 2008 12:49 pm

Here's how I do it:

Image

The fuse holder's leads are cut short enough to reach the original screws without flopping around and small ring lugs are crimped onto their ends. The ends of the fuse lid are cut out so that it can close over the lugs.
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Post #11 by Whiskerfish » Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:48 pm

Sidecar Bob wrote:Here's how I do it:


That looks very nice. That is an 1100 setup correct??
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

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Post #12 by Cookie » Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:44 am

To see what would be involved with a bolt on circuit breaker I picked up a 30 amp today, hot doggies it's made in USA! I'll post a link to my photobucket account since I haven't figured out exactly how to do this right.
One picture shows several sizes of fuse and breakers from a train to the current ones. On my red bike in the end I'll use the small breaker and change terminals to slide ons.
The large breaker is the type we have used for years in commercial vehicles. You can trim it way down by removing the mounting tabs or just one of them and shortening the terminal mount screws sine we are only going to use one ring terminal on each end. I've seen these with so many rings you could barely get the nut on. Just make sure you insulate it with tape or whatever pleases you.
I did find out you have to either drill out the bike's ring terminals or cahnge them to ones that fit the breaker.

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Post #13 by mooseheadm5 » Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:35 am

Napa has circuit breakers that fit into blade type fuse holders, both resetting and non resetting types.
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Post #14 by Sidecar Bob » Sun Feb 24, 2008 8:12 am

Whiskerfish wrote:That looks very nice. That is an 1100 setup correct??

It's the 650, but any Honda with the fuse on the starter solenoid can be done the same way.

That solenoid originally came from the Nighthawk - I figured why bother doing the one that was on the 650 when I was scrapping the NH anyway?
Last edited by Sidecar Bob on Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer
The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
Image "A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....

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Post #15 by Cookie » Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:06 pm

I've also seen ones that fit into the old round fuse holders, they may be antique now since most cars have used blades for a while.
It seems like 30 amps is a lot for a bike but that is what the original was marked. I'll probably try 20 amps to start with since I don't expect a big load and I'd rather trip a breaker than fry a wire.
Enjoy life,
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A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad.
Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)


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