Urgently need fork assembly info

[Track T 2411]

Re: tire rubbing... I found the Shinko 712 to be a bit larger diameter and will rub on the fender. I was able to adjust the fender enough to just clear it...

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

I've never seen a factory air fork that calls for more than about 6 psi, WITH the correct amount of oil, and the proper springs. If you're running that much, it should feel solid. Changing the viscosity changes the rate at which the lower moves up and down (thicker results in stiffer action). Changing the amount progressively changes the rate at which it gets harder as it strokes (more oil makes it stiffen up more near the bottom).

Spec on fork air pressure is 14-21 PSI for the '82 and '83 1100s. Not sure if the '81 is different, but I'm guessing not. I run near the top end of that range. I'd describe the compression/rebound as both plush and solid. I don't get nervous in the twisties or get a pogo-like effect in the front over bumps and the like.

I notice a bit more fork dive when my air is low, FWIW. I top off the air when I think I feel it - every few weeks. It may be a placebo effect, but I then sense that the front end functions better.

If you can't dial it in and things are too squishy, Progressive springs can do a lot to stiffen things (some think too stiff) for about $100. But if it's the rebound that troubles, I'm not sure if springs are the remedy.

Take my experience with a grain of salt, though. Others here have decades of experience with these bikes - and actual wisdom, which is not what I have to offer.

[Sidecar Bob]

Or go through the fork spring preload spacer calculation and add spacers to tune the suspension perfectly for your weight and that of the bike so that you no longer need to add air
https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Suspension2.html

[Figor]

Poping on decel can be the new pipes letting more air backflow. Unavoidable. Fender hitting tire can sometimes be corrected by just loosening, raising, and retightening the mounting bolts. Sometimes there are two overlapping holes, also.

The bike was already running lean and I think the more free flowing pipes leaned it out even more.

Getting a lot of carbon inside the exhaust. I think I need to add more fuel.

I’m used to some popping on decel when I add pipes that flow more freely but this is insane. It’s like putting two wheels on a firework display and riding it around. Lol.

[Sidecar Bob]

Are you sure there isn't a leak in the exhaust somewhere? As I understand it, popping can be caused by fresh air entering the hot exhaust and providing oxygen that causes unburned fuel to ignite.

[Figor]

Very good point. There were no gaskets where the header bolts to the head. I thought that there should be. Might be getting some air in there. One side is noticeably louder then the other, but the popping is definitely come from both sides. I’ll order some and see if there is any improvement.

[Sidecar Bob]

There definitely should be "gaskets" between the headers and the heads. They are usually hollow copper rings that compress when the header nuts are torqued. You can usually get away with using them several times with the same exhaust system but after that they get too flattened out to seal and if you replace anything that affects the way the header meets the head used ones may not be able to deform enough to seal.

After a couple of uses they get pretty flat and can look like they are part of the exhaust ports (I've heard of people finding 2 or 3 sets of them that whoever last worked on a bike didn't remove).
You usually need to pry them out with a flat blade screwdriver and often need to tap on the end of it to get it between the old seal and the port.

[Figor]

Thanks for the tip. I’m picking some up today so I’ll check for compressed ones when I take the header off. I did have a glance when I removed them the first time but maybe I overlooked them.

[gltriker]

In this photo, the red pointer indicates where the compressed exhaust gasket/gaskets edge could start to be pried out at the bottom end of the spark plug cavity's, water drain out hole.
Also provides an opportunity to ream the dirt out of those important to keep clean, water drain out holes, too.
All four cylinders each have one.

20190611_181357_resized.jpg (96.37 KiB) Viewed 139 times

[Sidecar Bob]

As you can see from Cliff's pic they can be hard to see if you don't know what to look for.

[Figor]

I may have over looked them. I’ll pull it apart tomorrow and check again. I got the new copper ones today so I’ll see if that helps the popping any. They actually look like copper coated graphite.

[pidjones]

I pulled three from each port on a recent rescue. They like to hide.

[gltriker]

Poping on decel can be the new pipes letting more air backflow. Unavoidable. Fender hitting tire can sometimes be corrected by just loosening, raising, and retightening the mounting bolts. Sometimes there are two overlapping holes, also.

The bike was already running lean and I think the more free flowing pipes leaned it out even more.

Getting a lot of carbon inside the exhaust. I think I need to add more fuel.

I’m used to some popping on decel when I add pipes that flow more freely but this is insane. It’s like putting two wheels on a firework display and riding it around. Lol.

Soooo I was wondering, How did you diagnose the bike was already running lean? Also, How would you add more fuel?
I wondered if this was a single carb set-up, studied your photos and eventually found it is actually a fuel injected set-up. Correct?
Coil on plug set-up, too?

snipped from your first posted Topic : " I picked one up today from a member."

Is this a Micro squirt controlled set-up?

[Figor]

Good eye. Yeh it’s Microsquirt. PO told me it was lean. I’ll need to get familiar with Tunerstudio to add fuel. The PO said he would assist with any issues but I don’t want to bother him unless I absolutely have to.

Sometimes when a guy sells a bike it’s because he doesn’t want to play with it anymore and I don’t know that’s the case but I’ll see what I can do before I resort to asking.
I have some minimal experience with TunePro on a different bike so I might be able to figure out some parts of Tunerstudio without doing too much damage.

[Sidecar Bob]

Now, that kind of information should be in your signature (as well as the bike's model year) so that we have some idea about what you have before we go off in all directions trying to help you fix what we assume is a stock or close to stock bike.