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Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

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leonardhcross
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Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#1

Post by leonardhcross »

Hello, hello Naked friends. I spent a frustrating amount of time on multiple forums searching for a tutorial on removing carburetors on a 1975 GL1000 and could not find one. With the bike largely stripped down, I was able to remove the entire rack intact. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwYT_CtI6Cw
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pidjones
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#2

Post by pidjones »

Lets see. Remove shelter sides (to avoid scratching them and make it all easier) and tape the frame rail over the carbs (once again to avoid scratching). Pull the toolbox, air cleaner cover and element. I use long hemostats to remove the two crankcase vent hoses from the left aft side of the cleaner. Loosen and remove the two air cleaner housing hold down bolts. Pull the back of the air cleaner housing up until at about a 45 degree angle and wriggle out. Using a JIS screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the air cut valve to the top of the plenum and move the air cut valve over to dangle in the plenum. Grab the two air cut valve o-rings. Disconnect the fuel line. Remove the "garnish" from each side - but put them back on once you have the rack out! That fancy chrome piece is important to keep the two carbs on each side together so you don't have to fight getting the throttle and choke linkages reconnected between the two. Loosen fully all four carb boot clamps. Loosen and remove all eight intake runner to head bolts. Slightly lift the rack to permit capturing all four intake runner o-rings. Heat the left intake runner boots with a heat gun and gently rotate them 90 degrees (to the rear, I think, but haven't done it this year). Move the rack a little to the right to permit disconnecting the choke and throttle cables. I find a set of hemostats very helpful in handling the cables. once the cables are off, the rack should come on out. Get used to doing it as you will probably have the rack in and out at least three times.

With as much removed as you have, they should almost fall off.
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leonardhcross
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#3

Post by leonardhcross »

Chuckling over here. Obviously, stripping the bike sure made the job easier. But, I'll tell you what......I am going to leave it stripped until I get the carbs back in. Won't that be a treat....especially when re-attaching those cables? So, I guess the take-away is......If you have any reason to remove your gas tank, wait until you have removed the tank to remove the carbs.
redglbx
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#4

Post by redglbx »

Good video Len, couple of suggestions on tools. Like PID said above a set of longer hemostats in both straight and angled are invaluable for this stuff. Also to prevent rounding the screw heads out you really need a set of JIS screwdrivers, once you use them a bit you’ll never go back, you’ll find that a lot of those stuck screws will simply come right out w/o stripping the head. Also a hand held impact is an invaluable tool for working on this old stuff. Simply a “must have”.

When I take carbs out, I loosen & remove the intakes once the airbox is out, I will heat the rubbers on the intakes with a heat gun (lightly) or a hair dryer, twist them and pull them off. Stuff a rag under the rack before pulling the intakes off so it doesn’t scratch the top of the motor up. Like you did a little blue painters tape over the intake holes in the heads is a good idea to keep things out, unless you want to also pull the heads, don’t ask.

Once the intakes are off you gain some room between the top of the rack and the frame, you can now pull the anti-backfire valve and just dangle it in the plenum or pull the vacuum hose and just pull the valve out, put the 2 plenum screws and o’rings aside.

At this point I pull the throttle & choke cables (hemostats are invaluable for this) and fuel line & then the carb tops on one side, usually the right side to gain some clearance between the frame and the rack and then just slide the rack out the left side. That’s how I do it.

Also, you probably know that those are not 75 carbs, hope you’re not disappointed!
Again, thanks for the video Len, good job !
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rcmatt007
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#5

Post by rcmatt007 »

if not already said, I would just replace the intake with one from ebay rather than try to seal or fix the broken one
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#6

Post by ritalz »

I routinely route the cables outside the frame when it comes time to re-install. Allows you to attach the cables to the bell crank before you slide the rack all the way in. Zip tie the cables to the frame after you are sure the carbs are functioning correctly.
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redglbx
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#7

Post by redglbx »

Al, how about some pictures of the cables routed outside the frame rails, i’m having a hard time seeing this, seems to be more of an issue the older I get.
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#8

Post by leonardhcross »

I think the number on the carbs is 758A. If these are not 75’s, what year?
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#9

Post by gltriker »

leonardhcross wrote: Thu Nov 24, 2022 10:19 am I think the number on the carbs is 758A. If these are not 75’s, what year?
Leonard, here's the information you require
https://www.randakksblog.com/early-vs-l ... b-specs-2/
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#10

Post by ritalz »

Don't have any pictures handy and the 75 is berried in the shed right now. I had plans to get it out to do some maintenance before cold weather sets in but life got in the way. It' not a big deal to route the cables this way but it shore makes it easier.
Al

1975 Goldwing 'Max'
1976 Goldwing 'Grocery Getter' Sold
1985 Goldwing Interstate 'NCC-1985' sold
2003 Goldwing New To Me 1800
1981 Silverwing Sold
1982 Goldeing Project Sold
1981 Goldwing Parted Out
1983 Goldwing Project Sold
1984 Goldwing New Project
1973 CB500F Long Gone
1966 CL77 First Street Bike
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#11

Post by rcmatt007 »

I did that on our 1200. they are below the upper frame piece, sort off near the carbs
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" not ready for prime time,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#12

Post by ericheath »

Pulling the two carb caps and slides on the opposite side of how you pull them out gives plenty of room and you shouldn’t scratch the frame up. I pull them to the left side of the bike. I also turn the runners as PIDJones mentioned.

Suggest you put a piece of tape over the two orings under the air cutoff valve or remove it from the hose so you don’t drop one into an intake and wonder where it went.

Hemostats are invaluable.
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#13

Post by redglbx »

Leonard, the 75 carb linkages have round “rods” with ball & socket connections, vs the 76 & later linkages that are a “L” shaped stamping that just fit on a pin and are retained with cotter pins. There are several links here on shimming the 75’s ball & socket linkage to reduce the slop in them. Imho, unless you are going for the “original” concours look the later carbs provide a much better operation carb to carb.

I used to think the 75 carb linkages were better because they look cleaner & more professional, but time has passed and I realized that those ball & socket connectors provide a source for slop and variances. Not good ! The later carbs have more precise linkages. The one’s you have are from a 76 and should work quite well once they are completely clean and sync’d properly.
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#14

Post by rcmatt007 »

the other difference is the slides have a concave inner surface which provides more airflow.... what is the serial # on the engine (the first # should be a "1" for a 75, "2" for a 76 etc. and "4" for 78-79), because it is possible someone put in a 76 engine. In any case, engines and carbs originally matched up with the 75 being the hottest performer, and the 79 the most smooth tourer (and way better MPG). You should try to match carbs to engine years, having said that being one year off is not a big deal.
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" not ready for prime time,
79 project, finished,
'86 1200 (Beth's) with motorvation sidecar, July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's). I guess you can say we have MBS
leonardhcross
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Re: Removing carbs from a 75 GL1000

#15

Post by leonardhcross »

Thanks to all of the responders. Your combined inputs are invaluable. I would like to be able to reply to individual responders but, so far, the only option is to hit “reply” on the thread. I am away from my computer at the moment. I will follow up with a picture of the engine serial number. Btw, I am not concerned about achieving “concourse” level restoration.
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