buffing aluminum

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sanfelice
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buffing aluminum

#1

Post by sanfelice »

I need to refinish the timing covers and valve covers on my 1979. What it is your recommended setup to do this?

If you use sandpaper, how do you get the rough "gunk" off first. Do you ever use steel wire brushes? If so, what type and "coarseness?"

Thanks
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Try
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Re: buffing aluminum

#2

Post by Try »

sanfelice wrote:I need to refinish the timing covers and valve covers on my 1979. What it is your recommended setup to do this?

If you use sandpaper, how do you get the rough "gunk" off first. Do you ever use steel wire brushes? If so, what type and "coarseness?"
I used a different grit wet sandpaper to polish my covers.
From 600 to 1500, and then I used a polish to get the
shiny finish.
--
Try
"84 - GL1200 Standard

anim-cheers1

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Dougal
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#3

Post by Dougal »

To get rid of any remaining laquer use a good paint stipper first, I have used Nitromors, but be careful its really srong stuff and make sure its well cleaned off once you have finninshed.
After this I use a buffing wheel and posihing soap.
If the cases are really bas than I use emrey paper to get the wrstoff, use it wet and use the least course grade you can get away with.

Dougal
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If God had intended motor cycles to be standard, he would'nt have given us the hacksaw.
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Bandanna
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#4

Post by Bandanna »

WELCOME SANFELICE TO NGW.

I HAVE USED BRASS WIRE BRUSHES TO DO CASINGS.
AS LIKE MY FELLOW MEMBERS,I ALSO USE WET+DRY WITH A BAR OF HOUSEHOLD SOAP FOR LUBRICATING THE PAPER.
THEN A GOOD POLISH WITH THE BUFFING WHEEL+SOLVOL AUTOSOL.
(A SOLVENT BASED METAL/ALLOY CLEANER),OR AS MY LEARNED FRIEND ABOVE,USE POLISHER+SOAPS...........

A GOOD TIP,IF PAINTING A FRAME,etc.. IS IF YOU GET A RUN IN THE PAINT, USE FINE GRADE WET+DRY,WITH SOAP TO FINELY REDUCE THE RUN.

THEN POLISH OUT WITH CUTTING COMPOUND.............
YOU ARE WHAT YOU RIDE......THAT MAKES ME AN ANGEL????
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Dougal
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#5

Post by Dougal »

Just had another thought, try wire wool.

Dougal
They say WHY?, I say why not.
If God had intended motor cycles to be standard, he would'nt have given us the hacksaw.
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Bandanna
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#6

Post by Bandanna »

I ALSO GOT AN EXCELLENT FINISH,BY USING DIFFERENT GRADES OF VALVE GRINDING PASTE, THEN BUFF UP AFTER WITH POLISH.
(I ACCIDENTLY GOT SOME ON A CASING+CARRIED ON)
BUT THAT WAS MY TRIAL+ERROR SESSION.
IT WORKED,BUT WAS HARD WORK.........
ALSO LIKE DOUGAL,HAVE USED STEEL WOOL WITH METAL POLISH ON THE WOOL............
THAT TOO WORKS,BUT A LOT OF ELBOW GREASE NEEDED!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
YOU ARE WHAT YOU RIDE......THAT MAKES ME AN ANGEL????
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Zryder
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#7

Post by Zryder »

This is what I'll be doing NEXT off season . Polishing . Everything else will be done .


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Boxern
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#8

Post by Boxern »

Zryder wrote:This is what I'll be doing NEXT off season . Polishing . Everything else will be done .
me too zryder i hope i can polish all alu next winter
[img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/forum/images/flags/Norway.gif[/img]

1978 gl1000
Robo
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Polish Aluminum

#9

Post by Robo »

Flitz works great. It takes off rust and oxidation really well.
Robo
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WINGMAN
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#10

Post by WINGMAN »

To get EXCELLENT results and get the "original" look, use fine wet-dry paper to sand off all the coating. Try to work in as few directions as possible. When you're down to the aluminum, wet the paper or aluminum with WD-40 and sand with very find paper, keeping with the desired "satin finish" which is sanding horizontally on the side where the logo goes, and making a complete circle around the top, bottom, and front and back sides. If you are careful and stay nice and even, you will get a beautiful finish. Wash the cover well to degrease it, and then give it a clear top coat. With the forks, you do the same but when sanding, use a "shoe polishing" movment to maintain the horizontal satin finish working your way up and down the fork. My bike looked like new. Hope this helps!
PS. If you polish the aluminum to a mirror luster, the clear coat will not stick and will soon get ugly.
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