Electronic ignition on teh

[SnoBrdr]

Never fear the truth. I destroyed the inlet valves trying to remove them. So I need to see if they are still available. I mean the brass fitting under the float inlet. Already pinged my local Honda dealer with the parts numbers from randakks site. So far found both main jets plugged on the first carb. Prolly that would be the cause of the fuel starvation. I checked the fuel tank first thing and luckily it is rust free. Ty

A 77 in North Dakota that has a rust free tank?

You did use a light to look inside ?

I say that cause my 78 which has always been garaged, kept as full as possible when ever possible, had rust in it.

[bongodude]

I did use a light. The reputation for rust up north is from the salt on the roads. If you don't move a vehicle in and out of a heated building there shouldn't be any moisture problems. I think I got lucky with this bike it is in very good shape. Tank is slightly tinged red but the screen is clear and the fuel filter is clear. I will refresh the filter though. What about those float valve seats? Can a guy still get 'em?

[robin1731]

snip.......... What about those float valve seats? Can a guy still get 'em?

Yes they are. But your best bet is to use OEM seats and valves. Pricey, but the failure rate is much lower than aftermarket.

[Tbell]

Before you put your rebuilt carbs back on the bike remove the gas tank sensor under the seat and peer in the tank with a flashlight. If the tank isn't clean and rust free you'll be pulling those carbs again in no time to clean them.

Poor guy...., I think we're going to scare him away

Scaring him? If this is a new to him bike, wait until he hears about the timing belts.

[bongodude]

Thanks for the updates you guys. Since I destroyed the inlet valve seats, I will need to bite bullet and get OEMs. I guess the reason I started this thread is because this 'new to me' bike wasn't running when I got it. So, after reading Randakk's tech tips from cover to cover, I was wondering about ignition, mostly because he recommends testing compression, setting the valves and perfect timing BEFORE doing any carb work. I didn't have that option 'cause the dang thing ain't runnin'. I was wondering if the timing might be an issue with the after market Dyna lll that is installed. Compression is good. Paperwork that came with the bike indicates the timing belts were done at 50,000 miles (67,000 on 'er now). Paper work indicates the carbs were cleaned once too. Some of the o rings were replaced and some were not. The ones under the main jets crumbled into dust and that seems to have gotten into the jets as 4 out of 8 of the main jets were plugged completely. Even 100 lbs of compressed air wouldn't dislodge it at first. Those inlet valve seats were stuck so hard, I used a long sheet rock screw (aka ez out), screwed it partway into the fitting and I still had to use some leverage to yank it out. Notably, these were one of the only 0 rings that were intact, so likely were installed in the last cleaning. The carb bowls have a nice green moss inside that is very hard to get out. So far, only a small screwdriver can scrape it off. No liquid cleaner can touch it! Gotta love that ethanol. So there you have it. Thanks for all the responses.

Right now I have no skin left on my finders, clean carbs and a smile on my face.

[avg_joe]

I had a difficult time getting my inlet valve seats out. I used a drill bit slightly larger than the bore, and spun them until the heat softened the o-ring enough to let go. It ruined the seats, same as your method. But I was able to get them out without prying on stuff. Once the drill bit was engaged in the seat, I could pull straight out while spinning it.

avg_joe