With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gauges

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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #46 by sunnbobb » Tue Jul 16, 2013 2:40 pm

Recycle, I think he be gittin' to it.. :)
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #47 by Recycled Roadkill » Tue Jul 16, 2013 3:27 pm

sunnbobb wrote:Recycle, I think he be gittin' to it.. :)
I believe you're right and I had to laugh with Pete's response. I'm all for keeping trade secrets though.

I've purchased the screwdrivers, ground 'em down and pryed at an old fuel guage to test them out. So far, so good.
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #48 by Placerville » Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:08 pm

Pete,

I found a method that allows the trip meter knob to be removed from the shaft without the 'edge filing' as shown above.

After pushing the boot back into the body, take a soldering iron and, with the tip at full temp., press it against the shaft at a point nearest the base of the knob. (Do not let the iron touch the knob.) At the moment you do this, start pulling 'out' on the knob. As the shaft begins to heat, the 'press fitted' knob will start losing its grip. Continued 'outward' pressure on the knob will cause it to slip right off. It only takes about 5 seconds for this to happen and there will be no damage to the knobs interior. Do not heat the shaft for several seconds and then begin pulling on the knob. This may cause you to apply more heat than necessary.
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #49 by pistolpete » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:38 pm

Placer....,

Very cool but unless I am mistaken all of the plastic knob shafts and the aluminum shafts are threaded.
Maybe I missed something in your statement.

Everyone, Sorry for the delay.
My sons home burned and was completely gutted yesterday.
Give me a day or two and I will get back to this thread, OK?
Pete
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #50 by pistolpete » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:38 pm

Did I mention that you are all a really cool bunch to work with.
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #51 by Recycled Roadkill » Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:14 pm

pistolpete wrote:Did I mention that you are all a really cool bunch to work with.
Pete

It's very nice of you to say that.
I've just completed opening a fuel guage and while the tools made worked well, sometimes I slipped narrowly missing stabbing my hand so I thought it may work better if I layed it on a flat surface. This resulted in almost stabbing my leg but fortunately I missed.
Maybe I've ground the tools wrong or I just need some protective gear. Regardless, the tools really do work well.
Thanks Pete!
Bob Gill
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It's never too late to have a happy childhood!
I've considered joining Insomniacs Anonymous, but I decided I'd sleep on it.

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'78 Honda GL 1000 Gentle Glide
'77 Honda GL 1000 Black Mamba (Sold) :(

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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #52 by Recycled Roadkill » Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:45 pm

Placerville wrote:Pete,

I found a method that allows the trip meter knob to be removed from the shaft without the 'edge filing' as shown above.

After pushing the boot back into the body, take a soldering iron and, with the tip at full temp., press it against the shaft at a point nearest the base of the knob. (Do not let the iron touch the knob.) At the moment you do this, start pulling 'out' on the knob. As the shaft begins to heat, the 'press fitted' knob will start losing its grip. Continued 'outward' pressure on the knob will cause it to slip right off. It only takes about 5 seconds for this to happen and there will be no damage to the knobs interior. Do not heat the shaft for several seconds and then begin pulling on the knob. This may cause you to apply more heat than necessary.


pistolpete wrote:Placer....,Very cool but unless I am mistaken all of the plastic knob shafts and the aluminum shafts are threaded.
Maybe I missed something in your statement.

OK?
Pete

Curious about whether threaded or not I removed the odometer knob from my sacrificial '78 speedometer to find that it is threaded. Left hand thread to boot. Once turned in the correct direction it came off easily.
Still liked your tip Guy. I've fought these before and I think your method is a good one if the knob won't turn loose.

Pete, I hope everything is a well as it can be with your son's home and nothing living was hurt. I've been there.
Bob Gill
Four wheels move the body but two wheels move the soul.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!
I've considered joining Insomniacs Anonymous, but I decided I'd sleep on it.

'96 Honda GL 1500A Rolling Couch (Not Naked)
'78 Honda GL 1000 Gentle Glide
'77 Honda GL 1000 Black Mamba (Sold) :(

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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #53 by pistolpete » Tue Jul 16, 2013 8:16 pm

Thanks Bob,

Mark called me tonight and his spirits are back up and looking ahead.
All will be OK, I am sure of that.
All escaped safely before it engulfed the house and Mom and I very thankful of that.
Pete
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #54 by Placerville » Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:50 pm

pistolpete wrote:Placer....,

Very cool but unless I am mistaken all of the plastic knob shafts and the aluminum shafts are threaded.
Maybe I missed something in your statement.

Everyone, Sorry for the delay.
My sons home burned and was completely gutted yesterday.
Give me a day or two and I will get back to this thread, OK?
Pete


What an incredible shock. What a blessing that no one was injured.

Regarding the threaded shaft. I'm sure that you're correct and my memory of how it came off (pulling or unscrewing) is distorted. I do remember how surprised I was with the ease in which it came off after applying the heat. So, as Recycled mentioned, it's a left hand thread. So, if one were to apply about 5 seconds of heat to the shaft, then grasp the shaft with some needle nose and give the knob a twist.....Bob's your Uncle!
Last edited by Placerville on Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #55 by Briang » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:29 pm

This is fascinating. Just wanted to say so, so this thread will always be highlighted when someone posts.
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #56 by pistolpete » Wed Jul 17, 2013 8:14 am

Braing,

Yes it will and I thought it pretty cool that you guys liked it.
More on cleaning and reassembly a little later.

Pete
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #57 by pistolpete » Wed Jul 17, 2013 5:30 pm

Back with a little more to add.

The picture shown below shows the eddy current stabilizer. Its responsibility is to allow smooth eddy current increases in order to move the needle to faster speeds/rpm. The stabilizer is arranged to be close to the speed bell (pic 27) and can be dirty between them. Glycerin grease can also get between them. In either case the results are a slow needle or stuck needle. It is important to get this area clean.

Use care when cleaning the movements working parts as they can be very easily disturbed. This is especially so with the needle return spring. Brushing against it can cause the calibration to be out at assembly. Use caution when cleaning near it.
All debris and glycerin must be removed in order that the movement works properly when all your hard work is finished.

Later this week, I will have reassembly suggestions.
Thanks for looking.

Pete
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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #58 by Recycled Roadkill » Wed Jul 17, 2013 7:05 pm

My '77 speedometer (not removed from the bike as yet) hangs at about 30 mph on its way back to 0. A few revs of the engine will vibrate it enough for it to return to 0, however and I always thought that a little oil would help the return spring bring it back to 0. Now I'm thinking that it may be some of that debris and glycerin you wrote about may be the issue with mine. (I detected some of the glycerin on my sacrificial '78 speedo.)
If removing that stuff doesn't allow the spring to return the needle to 0, is there a process you use beyond that or is there a lube you'd recommend? I've got plenty of different lubes at hand but no glycerin grease that I know of.

Also, I believe that I remember you having replacement decals available for the speedo and tach? If so, how are these obtained?
Bob Gill
Four wheels move the body but two wheels move the soul.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!
I've considered joining Insomniacs Anonymous, but I decided I'd sleep on it.

'96 Honda GL 1500A Rolling Couch (Not Naked)
'78 Honda GL 1000 Gentle Glide
'77 Honda GL 1000 Black Mamba (Sold) :(

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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #59 by dartman1962 » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:40 pm

Pete & fellow members,

I am following this thread intently. Just thought I would though my 2 cents in. ;)

I noticed you were mentioning not to put your hands on the faceplates! I found it easier to do this!

Remove the needles on both gauges by placing 2 spoons one on either side of the needle applying equal pressure allowing the spoon to rest against the face plate screws. The needle will pop off, but can be tight, (Care is required no to bend the shafts).

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Re: With interest, I will explain a good way to open GL gaug

Post #60 by Roady » Thu Jul 18, 2013 5:44 am

Just a caution ... on a sacrificial 1100 speedo, I broke off the post with the spoon method. :o


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