changing the belts with the radiator in,,, yes . a new video

[77Pinto]

.....to do both belts there is no need to turn the engine. i never do and have no problems.

you cant put any real tension on the drive side of these belts. and they dont stretch. the tensioner only puts tension on
the side it is on.

so, you cant snap a belt by having the tensioner side too tight. yes, you should only use the spring.

i have never ever heard of a belt skipping or jumping teeth. it just cant happen. the toothed design just wont let it.
the tensioner would have to be almost off for that to happen....

When the crank is set to "T-1" there is tension on the tensioner side of one belt, when the crank is at "T-2" there is on the other. You can change belts with it set to either, and if you do it with the T-2 lined up its the left side cam that moves the pulley. Yes you 'can' adjust both without spinning the engine, but it will not be 'correct'.

Yes, you can snap a belt with them too tight, and yes if they are too loose they will skip teeth. For both of these: It might not do it right away, but it CAN AT SOME POINT. It might take time or just the right temp and/or rpm, but it can. I have seen snapped belts and loose ones that skipped teeth (and wore into the case on one 1500).

I agree, that the belts don't stretch as some say they do. They are fairly durable for what they are, but have their limits, and with those limits I give them the best chance to last the longest life I can.

Thank you for taking the time to help others.


Bill

[AussieGold]

.....to do both belts there is no need to turn the engine. i never do and have no problems.

you cant put any real tension on the drive side of these belts. and they dont stretch. the tensioner only puts tension on
the side it is on.

so, you cant snap a belt by having the tensioner side too tight. yes, you should only use the spring.

i have never ever heard of a belt skipping or jumping teeth. it just cant happen. the toothed design just wont let it.
the tensioner would have to be almost off for that to happen....

When the crank is set to "T-1" there is tension on the tensioner side of one belt, when the crank is at "T-2" there is on the other. You can change belts with it set to either, and if you do it with the T-2 lined up its the left side cam that moves the pulley. Yes you 'can' adjust both without spinning the engine, but it will not be 'correct'.

Yes, you can snap a belt with them too tight, and yes if they are too loose they will skip teeth. For both of these: It might not do it right away, but it CAN AT SOME POINT. It might take time or just the right temp and/or rpm, but it can. I have seen snapped belts and loose ones that skipped teeth (and wore into the case on one 1500).

I agree, that the belts don't stretch as some say they do. They are fairly durable for what they are, but have their limits, and with those limits I give them the best chance to last the longest life I can.

Thank you for taking the time to help others.


Bill

and i thank you for your contribution. even though i disagree with the two points you make here, it adds to the discussion so we all may learn and make informed decisions on the maintenance of these fine machines.

[rogerb]

It appears in the video that only the radiator hose was taken off the pump. Upon past experiences one should take the pump housing off to inspect the impeller's integrity. I have found that if there is ANY pump side play then the pump assy should be replaced or you will have do do it down the road soon. I have discovered that if the oil side of the seal goes bad or is starting to go bad, you will find a gooey tar like substance usually in the valve covers which is a mix of antifreeze,substance from the seal itself and oil mixed. You would never know that the pump is starting to fail until it gets worse.

[AussieGold]

It appears in the video that only the radiator hose was taken off the pump. Upon past experiences one should take the pump housing off to inspect the impeller's integrity. I have found that if there is ANY pump side play then the pump assy should be replaced or you will have do do it down the road soon. I have discovered that if the oil side of the seal goes bad or is starting to go bad, you will find a gooey tar like substance usually in the valve covers which is a mix of antifreeze,substance from the seal itself and oil mixed. You would never know that the pump is starting to fail until it gets worse.

well, the little cap that the radiator hose clamps to was taken off. and it is a good idea to check the pump impellar for any play or sideways movement. i did not address the water pump this time.
isnt the weep hole at the bottom of the pump housing designed to leak a bit if the pump is beginning to go ?

[Barney T Weasel]

Last time my pump went was about 25 years back. The water leaked into the oil via the common seal on the single shaft....no water came out that weep hole....

[robin1731]

Yeah, while the weep hole leaking is a sure sign it doesn't always leak there when the pump is bad.