So my bike is no longer running well, 30 miles of riding this year and i cant even go WOT anymore. It's also having troubke even idling. I had to limp my bike home at 20mph holding the throttle wide open. Timing hasnt changed since it was running good last year. As far as I know the carbs havent been cleaned in some time and it has done a lot of sitting, so off are coming the carbs. Figures, two weeks before Muskegon bike time.
So my problem is actually getting the carbs off. I got this far:
Apparently I'm supposed to take the air cutoff valve body off and move it aside to get some clearance. Good thing the screws are stripped:
The two on the left is what I'm talking about. So is there any other way to get the carbs off? There's simply not clearance without taking off the air cutoff valve, at least that i can see. Also have no idea how im going to get to those tiny screws for any of the removal tricks.
It is relatively easy to remove the carburetors from a GL1000. The steps below will allow the process to be accomplished without potential damage to the carb set or the motorcycle.
WARNING: Gasoline is very flammable! Please exercise due caution when the potential exists for spillage.
NOTE: Each carburetor corresponds to its respective cylinder number. #1 is front right, #2 is front left, #3 is rear right and #4 is rear left. (Viewed while seated and facing to the front)
1) Shut off fuel.
2) Remove spark plug caps from the left side spark plugs (#2 - #4) and carefully remove the wires from the carb stay clips on both sides.
3) Loosen choke cable from the choke bracket just behind #3 carb intake.
4) Remove the false tank completely. With assistance, you may be able to remove the entire assembly without removing the individual cover sections.
NOTE: There are five fasteners that secure the shell frame to the motorcycle. Two each side and one top front.
Be sure to disconnect the overflow hose from the neck of the radiator before removing the false tank assembly, also remove the fuel drain hose from the shelter frame.
5) Remove the air filter cover, air filter and filter box completely from the carbs.
NOTE: Be sure to remove hoses from the filter box.
6) Remove the cap, spring and diaphragm only from the air "cut off" valve located on the top front of the carb rack.
7) Remove the choke cable and the throttle cables from the carburetor control rotor unit.
8) Remove the screws only from the #1 and #3 (right side) vacuum caps.
9) Remove the 8 bolts and washers that hold the carb intakes to the cylinder heads.
10) Remove the carb fuel line from the pump only (be careful not to injure the fuel pump line nipple).
11) Using a magic marker, mark the number 1 and number 3 on the respective carb caps.
12) Remove the right side chrome carb stay brace.
NOTE: This step is unnecessary if the brace does not have the cuff guard to the rear.
13) Lift the carb set and move it out towards the #2 - #4 side of the engine until the #1 - #3 carb caps can be removed. Leave springs and pistons on their respective carb bodies.
14) After the caps are removed the set can be maneuvered out of the frame. Be careful that the #2 & #4 plug wires do not snag as the set is removed.
15) Set the carb unit over a suitable fuel catch pan and carefully remove the float bowl drain plugs to drain the fuel.
NOTE: If the drain plugs will not easily come out, remove all vacuum caps, springs and pistons from the set follow step 15a.
15a) Invert whole carburetor set over the catch pan to drain the fuel.
16) Replace the drain plugs, vacuum pistons, springs and vacuum caps in their proper positions. Reinstall the air cut cap and reattach the intakes.
NOTE: Before packaging remove the intake seal.
17) Be sure that all screws are snug and the set is dry of fuel. Wrap the set in several layers of bubble wrap and package them carefully into a suitable carton to prevent shipping damage. The carton should be large enough to allow the set to fit inside but as small as possible so the set does not move during shipment to us.
NOTE: It will be helpful if the carb set is placed inside a plastic bag or similar to prevent shipping material from entering the porting. Please do not ship the set using "popcorn foam" without over wrapping the set completely.
19) Ship them to us using a suitable carrier such as USPS, UPS, FedEx Gnd, etc.
Aha! Just the cap and spring. Never did that before. A lot easier than messing with the two orings, now just one ittybitty one. I think it does help to remove the caps and slides from the 1-3 side. I've had mine off four times today.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
Thanks for the copy and paste from pistol pete. It worked taking off just the top of the air cutoff and removing the carb tops. Ericheath just mentioned an oring though and i did not have one. Is there supposed to be one in the groove right here in the top of the air cutoff? It appears the rubber diaphram has the male have on it that fits in the groove.
There is a very small one to go around the small hole in front of the vacuum line. I'll try and point it on your pic, but maybe someone else will first.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
its at 9 o'clock in this pic. You can see the marks from the oring.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
If you didn't just loose that o-ring though that isn't why it all of a sudden started running bad. If it wasn't there it would have been bad from day one. And even if something caused it to break there would still be some of it there.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
I ended up sending mine off to Pistol Pete and having Moose do his thing.
It was a good thing because with my carbs even though they looked really clean and dry we found out why the bike had not been running.
They told me someone had done a real hack job on the carbs.
Had main jets in the wrong places and other jets were just missing.
It had broken parts plus cheap knock off float valves.
We checked one of the carbs before shipping and someone had rolled the O-ring in that main press in jet.
It was running so rich that the spark plugs are all black coated and still wet after sitting for years.
Compared to lots seen here, that's clean. What gets plugged easily on yours is the idle jet, which is under a rubber plug between the primary and main jets.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
cklamer wrote:I ended up sending mine off to Pistol Pete and having Moose do his thing.
heh, heh Moose is his daughter.
Faith, Family and Friends
'75 GL1000 (Feb 2012 BOTM)
2014 Softail Deluxe
1966 Suzuki S 32-2 Olympian
The craftsman is proud of what he has made, and cherishes it, while the consumer discards things that are perfectly serviceable in his restless pursuit of the new." Richard Sennett as quoted by Matthew B. Crawford in Shop Class as Soulcraft
Working on your own motorcycle is half of the fun...it's also half of the problem.
ericheath wrote:snip..............Compared to lots seen here, that's clean.
LOL, that's what I was thinking. If I took bowls off that looked like that I wouldn't know what to do.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Moose is his daughter.