GL1100 Melting Altenator / Stator Wires at plug !!??!!

[Eenvader]

Man I feel like a dummy ! Was working on a "running rough" at 3000 RPM issue, drained my gas tank to put in fresh fuel. Then filled it up again. At the same time was removing chrome accessories to make the bike look more naked. I took off these plates that hide the carburetors and these covers that cover up the the 4 intakes from the carbs that are held down by one screw. so I go to start the bike and its running bad and its spitting out air through the holes. So I stop the bike and put the screw back into each manifold. Start the bile and it runs ok, a bit of white exhaust at first then ok. But I see smoke coming from the left side cover by the battery, pull the cover and see the connector with 3 yellow wires melting and smoking. I shut off the bike. Start it again later, runs great but 3 minutes in the connector starts to smoke / melt again... I read on the web that this is common ???? and to cut the connector out and solder the wires back together ?? Have you heard of this ? It has to be coincidence with the spitting issue...I didn't know those screws needed back in...ugggggg...what you think ?

[Whiskerfish]

Yes the Infamous three yellow wires are a very well known issue. Most just eliminate the connector and hard solder the wires to eliminate the problem. Some replace the connector itself. It needs fixed before you try to run the engine again or you will burn out the stator if it has not already done so. Here is one discussion thread http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10104

Those screws on the bottom of the intake runners are where you hook up a manometer to balance the Carburetors.

[Eenvader]

Hey thanks ! I cracked the old melted plugs apart and now have the 6 wires out of it. the metal connectors are still good on the wires, but I think I'll either cut them off and solder / heat shrink the wires, or put on a straight thru crimp on...makes you wonder how it could melt that connecter, why it won't melt the insulation off the wires or heat shrink ?? ..... Ya now I understand about the 4 holes LOL, runs worth nothing wid them out lol

[salukispeed]

The oxide that forms on the brass connector surface does not carry the high current from the stator so well and therefore generate a lot of heat and the plastic connector fails. Some have crimped the wires but this is not much better than the spade connectors after a bit. A good cleaning, and soldering seems to be the best solution over time. I went a slightly different route by cleaning, crimping non insulated connectors and then soldering the connections and heat shrink. This way I got a good solid mechanical and electrical connection. It is important that the solder flows freely into the connector. Most twist and solder with good results .

[ericheath]

Suggestion is to cut back a few inches of wires on both sides as the corrosion and heat usually follows the wire back under the insulation.

[Sidecar Bob]

The thing about soldering is that unless the wires are clean you will end up heating the wire a lot before the solder will bond with it and that can cause embrittlement of the copper which often causes the wire to break right next to the soldered connection. And, of course, once you have soldered them you will need to cut them and re-solder them if you need to take the engine out.

That is why I recommend replacing the original connector with a similar one and applying a water repellent grease into both parts of the connector to prevent the brass parts from oxidizing.

You can get new connectors from http://easternbeaver.com/ and a number of other suppliers.

[RB]

I do it by gettign some good connectors and then leaving the wires sealed up and separated so they can dissapate the heat better..rather than bound together in a bundle.

[jdvorchak]

The only reason they get hot is because the corrosion is causing resistance. Resistance = Heat. Goldwings are NOT the only bikes affected by those white connectors. Every Metric from the 60's 70's and 80's has the same problem. I did a write up in the How To forum about removing that connector. I figured that if I had to remove the engine I could re-solder the connectors. But if you can find the original type connector, new of course, and have the crimping tools to replace the connector, go for it. As far as re-using your old connectors? If I went through the trouble of replacing the connector I'd sure want new contacts as well.

[BlueThunder]

Original connectors can be obtained from here: http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html
I crimp and SOLDER each connector to ensure a proper, tight connection.