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I got in a nice 15 mile ride today, I rode to the gym, worked out and then went around the local 4 lane bypass. I got her up to 80 for a few miles and broke in the new tires. The rear brake took a few pumps to get working. It has some new pads so I took it easy on the stops. Everything was nice and smooth and it sounded right. The tach is sluggish, but seems to be loosening up, the cable may have been broken for years before it was parked for 20. I put on a loud turn signal clicker and after a few more miles the beeper began to beep, so far only three times before taking a rest but it beeps for either side.

When I got home I had to turn the idle down about a thousand rpm. The starter clutch worked every time after an initial scare last week. I think I made a good choice to trade the 79 for this 78.

I have a set of K7 cb750 handlebars. I'm considering a swap, these seem very tall and all the cables and wires seem to be puled tight. I really like the euro bars on my cb750 K1 a little too low for a cruiser though.

She only starts in neutral, I assume I need to troubleshoot the clutch switch. It there a logical place to start?

The clutch switch/wires assembly is located in the housing where the clutch hand lever is mounted to. You will find a looong 2 wires lead coming out of that housing routed towards the shelter. Unplug those 2 wires lead male connectors from their respective female harness connectors and check for continuity through those same male clutch switch wire connectors with your always handy ohmmeter.

With the clutch lever in the clutch engaged position, you should find a reading of almost infinite resistance: an open circuit.
With the clutch lever in the clutch disengaged position, you should find a reading of almost zero resistance; a closed (or completed) circuit. It is a plastic plunger type switch that slowly became very sensitive to clutch lever position on my trike.

If you find the switch isn't operating correctly, the clutch switch/wires assembly is still available through the Honda OEM parts system. Around $10. I'd advise you to proactively replace it anyway. The OEM Honda part number is 35340-329-003

Let us know what you find.

If needed, We can give you further information about its replacement procedure.

Simple enough, thanks. I assumed I'd need to find and source a diode somewhere, I'll start with the switch There is a same year 750 here, I might even be able to rob a part from it. lol.

The part is cheap enough to buy a new one anyway.

We rode about 70 miles today and everything worked perfectly, the turn signal beeper beeped a little more than last time. With my loud clicker I don't miss it anyway. I had the windjammer and lowers on, the engine heat was nice in the evening. A little startup smoke but it was running clean after a warm up.

Thanks for all the help getting her back on the road.

Awesome

+1

Well she developed a miss that continued to get worse, I had a batch of bad gas and assumed it was carb related in spite of two new inline filters. Today I pulled the carbs for cleaning and as they came out I noticed the band clamps are loose. Shame on me. As tight as the intakes are I wouldn't think they would leak much but obviously there is the poor performance.

I'll clean them again anyway since they are out and be sure to re-install properly. Moral of the story, don't do that.

Aw jeez, I put the #1 float bowl on the wrong carb, no wonder that air cutoff hose won't reach. Here I go again. Gets confusing when you flip them over, don't do that either.

The big miss is cured, it's still a little ragged at lower rpm's, Pulls smooth and goes down the road OK. I still haven't adjusted the lash or re-checked timing and point gap since I filed and polished the points a little. I put new condensers on the 79, but I haven't on this one yet. I'm considering a Dyna just because good points and condensers are close to the same price as a new Dyna on ebay.

Carbs clean, air filter new, Leakdown is excellent, more new plugs the old ones are a nice light tan color, 300 mile oil & filter change to get the MMO out and further flush any old oil, valve lash was really good, Rocker covers clean inside, I forgot to look for the oil screen. Static timing is spot on, point gaps are a couple thou tight. I still want to check dynamic timing to be sure the advancer is working, No point sparking to speak of. Now to see if the low speed miss is cured.

Nope still there, I cut back the coil wires at the ends, measured 15K ohms across the coil wires 1-2, 3-4. Each plug cap is just under 5K ohms. My meter only reads up to 20K so I get no reading across all of them assembled. I'm back to the carbs again. The screws are 1 1/4 turns out, It still runs good at higher rpm's and possibly a small improvement in the low rpm smoothness after all the work.

try taking your screws out another half or even a full a turn each

Whiskerfish wrote:try taking your screws out another half or even a full a turn each

Yes, I've never had one that liked them in that far.

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