Worn-out clutch lever

[Beetleman]

My clutch lever is worn out. It's not the lever it's self but the hole on the clutch lever housing has been wollered out (hows that for okie slang).
I've bought one on ebay but it turned out to be wollered out also, but not as bad as the original one so I used it. My 2nd gear is grinding pretty good and I'm wondering if the worn out lever is keeping my clutch from completely disengaging.
I read somewhere that honda rebel 250 levers are a good replacement. This one doesn't say that it's a rebel lever but it looks so close. And for twelve bucks that's less than I spent on my 40 year old replacement. Can any clutch lever work? Any other suggestions?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Lever-For- ... 0408.m2460

[Motowalt]

You'll want to fix that clucth lever pronto.
The GL transmission does not like to be shifted with an improperly adjusted clutch...bad wear on the shift forks may result and that will require splitting the engine cases to repair.

[delling3]

I have a clutch lever/perch from a '78. PM me if you are interested. If you don't care about using OEM, the one in your original post should work.

[jdvorchak]

I caution you against the wrong lever/perch. I had a CB900 once that had some other clutch lever and perch and it was horrible. It was so hard to pull I hated it. Bought a used one, for the CB900, on eBay and it made all the difference in the world. There is a bit of Geometry in that lever and perch and if you guess wrong, by looking at a picture, you get to order the proper one and you're out $12.78.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[BlueThunder]

I don't know the length of a '78 GL1000, but for '75-'77 GL1000 the clutch lever is 8". A Rebel is only 7" long. Don't know how that would affect you but when I needed a replacement for my '77, that extra inch was needed!

[Whiskerfish]

yea there is a difference between the 75-77 and the 78/79. The later ones are longer and have a different throw.

[Rat]

In sailing we call it a 'fair lead' .... that is the strain on the 'line' (wire) should be axial .... in the same direction as the force ....

Gord

[Beetleman]

Some of these just have a nut and bolt. Mine has a flat head screw, the top of the screw has shoulder on it that fits in the perch hole.

[Beetleman]

This the way mine looks except the hole that the flat head screw goes into is slightly oval shaped

[jdvorchak]

Once you do get the new perch and lever, clean and grease it at least once a year. Also lube the cable at the same time. A lot of folks neglect this because they think it's hard to remove the lever. The simple trick is to screw the adjuster on the perch all the way in and align the adjuster and lock nut so the groove is facing out towards you. Then remove the pivot bolt and nut. The lever will slide right out allowing full access to the internals for cleaning and lube. Then lube the lever top bottom and the pivot hole with a light coating of grease. Then lube the pivot bolt with grease. Attach the cable and slide the lever back in and replace the pivot bolt and nut. Then adjust free play with the adjuster. Easy and quick.

[jdvorchak]

Once you do get the new perch and lever, clean and grease it at least once a year. Also lube the cable at the same time. A lot of folks neglect this because they think it's hard to remove the lever. The simple trick is to screw the adjuster on the perch all the way in and align the adjuster and lock nut so the groove is facing out towards you. Then remove the pivot bolt and nut. The lever will slide right out allowing full access to the internals for cleaning and lube. Then lube the lever top bottom and the pivot hole with a light coating of grease. Then lube the pivot bolt with grease. Don't forget the hole where the cable "barrel" attaches to the lever. That barrel has to be clean and the cable able to move freely. Attach the cable and slide the lever back in and replace the pivot bolt and nut. Then adjust free play with the adjuster. Easy and quick.

Edit. forgot the cable end barrel lube. Above is corrected procedure.

[robin1731]

Most times what wears out is just the lever itself. Some have a brass bushing that the pivot bolt goes through. The cheaper ones are just raw aluminum. I rarely see the pivot bolt or the perch wear out. It can happen though. When buying new levers always try to get them with the bushing. But either way like jd said, lube them. I use the same moly grease that I put on the rear drive splines.

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