'82 GL1100 solinoid.

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paddlenut65
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'82 GL1100 solinoid.

#1

Post by paddlenut65 »

I need a Solinoid for my '82 gl1100.

The dealer wants $95 for one.
Is there something special about this thing (Gold plated maybe)?
or can I use a standard Solinoid from the auto parts place?

If So does anyone have a part number or reference number of some sort that I can use to get one that will work?

Any help, or discusion would be apriciated.
Thanks,
Randy,
GL1100, GL1500
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#2

Post by BLACKGOLD »

I would be interested too. I'm not sure if its the solenoid or not, though. when I hit the starter button, I hear the solenoid click, but I usually have to hit it several times before the starter kicks over. If you have any ideas, please let us know.
Mike

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Black Betty-2000 HD Electra Glide

"we are on the cutting edge of cocking about" -Richard Hammond
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Re: '82 GL1100 solinoid.

#3

Post by Try »

paddlenut65 wrote:I need a Solinoid for my '82 gl1100.

The dealer wants $95 for one.
Is there something special about this thing (Gold plated maybe)?
or can I use a standard Solinoid from the auto parts place?

If So does anyone have a part number or reference number of some sort that I can use to get one that will work?

Any help, or discusion would be apriciated.
Thanks,
Check our "How To" forum.
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Try
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Bandanna
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#4

Post by Bandanna »

is it definitely a solenoid problem???

could there be a faulty earth strap on the starter??

is the solenoid working,but the starter bendix is sticking,making the same click as if it were a solenoid problem????


just a thought........... :roll:
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BLACKGOLD
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#5

Post by BLACKGOLD »

I misspoke. It is the relay next to the battery that I'm hearing the click from.
Mike

Elvira-1980 GL1100 Custom
Black Betty-2000 HD Electra Glide

"we are on the cutting edge of cocking about" -Richard Hammond
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#6

Post by Lars »

Hi
I have had this problem before. I have changed the starter relay and rebuilt the starter on my 81 1100. Its quite simple to check if the relay is the problem. Just make a jumping cable ( a large size one) from the + battery pole to the intake on the starter. If it runs smoothly ... relay is the problem. When i changed my defect relay i opened it for to se if it could have been repaired.. its so simple constructed ANY relay wich accept the hig ampere can be used insted. The problem was that it was bad contact between the big copper plate and the contact points inside. It could have been repaired but since the local MC scrap yard had one for a cheap amount i just changed it. My guess is that all 1100 and 1200 are using same relay. Good luck Lars
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#7

Post by Lars »

I could continue...
If the relay is ok... the starter is bad... First time i took mine apart the bearings was gone and the ancor weas stuck at the fields.. I made new bearings ( Honda could'nt supply) and the starter runned perfect ... for a while. Then the funny problem started..... The starter didnt manage to turn the engine.. but testing it on the work bench it run like hell... ok a new used one was bought and tested on the bech - ok, into the bike but it did'nt manige to turn the engine... fu... k what now ok?? Splitted both starters on the work bench and checked each part visual and by ohm meter checking ancor and fields... I was lucky, the ancor was defect in one starter the fields in the other. so using the best parts from both starters made a new one and it runs perfect still since last summer...
Once again good luck... Lars
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#8

Post by BLACKGOLD »

Thanks for the input, Lars. I'll try that.
Mike

Elvira-1980 GL1100 Custom
Black Betty-2000 HD Electra Glide

"we are on the cutting edge of cocking about" -Richard Hammond
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#9

Post by Lars »

Hi Blackgold
I forgot one important thing. The first checking, a wire from battery to starter is ok but remember there must be a good contact from - side of battery to the frame and engine. I have seen bad contacts on - side. The bike runs perfect but when the high ampere comes the contact broke due do corrotian. So the best way to check this is to make both a minus and a pluss cable directly from the battery POLES to the starter. Then if it runs ok take away one cable at a time and see if your problem is in - or + side.

It is quite common that worn out brushes in the starter makes bad contact and makes starter just click... not a big problem.

The starter is easy pull of you just need to remove the gearlever..
Lars
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#10

Post by paddlenut65 »

I am no mechanic so I could be wrong.
I shorted the accross the Solinoid and it started right up.

I am fairly sure it was the solenoid. :oops:
Looked at the diagram in the book, looks like the right place.

Little round cylinder thingy hanging from a rubber boot just behind the battary.
The positive battary cable runs directly to it.
Battary cable could be better. :?:

Anyway if you short the 2 bolts on top together with a screw driver,
the bike starts right up (without hitting the start button).

The bike also starts if you coast it down the drive way and pop the clutch,
and it runs good once you get it started.

If this could be a relay, or starter problem let me know.

Thanks for your help.
Randy
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#11

Post by Bandanna »

that sounds like the one paddlenut....

it could be a bad contact somewhere,but a friend of mine used a solenoid off an old mini car(you may not have them there,pardon my ignorance or seemingly rudeness :oops: not intentional)

that was a square type,with + - terminals on.


maybe you can find one at a junkyard????..........
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#12

Post by Dougal »

bandanna wrote:is it definitely a solenoid problem???

could there be a faulty earth strap on the starter??

is the solenoid working,but the starter bendix is sticking,making the same click as if it were a solenoid problem????


just a thought........... :roll:
Cant be the starter bendix the wing dosnt have one. On teh wing the starter engages viaa rolller/ramp type clutch.
The problemseems tobe the solonoid.

Dougal
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#13

Post by Bandanna »

thanx for the correction dougal :oops:

thats what you get when you dabble in 4 wheels too..........

safe riding my friend
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#14

Post by Dougal »

All bike solonoids tend to be expensivecompared to auto ones. An auto solnoid can be fitted with a little inginuity.
The connections for the battery and starter motor is obvious.
As for the rest,
Connect the yellow/red wire to the connection that is normally fed from the car ignition switch.
The green/black should be connected to the case of the solonoid and the solonoid should be isloated from earth (if you wish to keep the safety part of the system working.)
Take a feed form teh wire that comes from the battery,insert a fuse holder with a 35 am fuse in it and connet the other side of the fuse to the red and red/white wires.

Hope this helps.

Dougal
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If God had intended motor cycles to be standard, he would'nt have given us the hacksaw.
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#15

Post by Timber »

paddlenut65 wrote:I am no mechanic so I could be wrong.
I shorted the accross the Solinoid and it started right up.

I am fairly sure it was the solenoid. :oops:
Looked at the diagram in the book, looks like the right place.

Little round cylinder thingy hanging from a rubber boot just behind the battary.
The positive battary cable runs directly to it.
Battary cable could be better. :?:

Anyway if you short the 2 bolts on top together with a screw driver,
the bike starts right up (without hitting the start button).

The bike also starts if you coast it down the drive way and pop the clutch,
and it runs good once you get it started.

If this could be a relay, or starter problem let me know.

Thanks for your help.
Randy
Hi Randy.
Probably a relay problem
I had the same symptones on my 81 1100. But it was the starter that was worn out and had to be replaced. You can see some pictures of the old one in my photo gallery.
If you need one, they are on e- bay for 129 - 149 US for new ones.
Good luck see yeah anim-cheers1 dancr crosso busted fly into a rage giveup
I NEVER give my WING away
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