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So it looks like it's a fairly straightforward check to see if the thermostat is working. Any way to confirm if the water pump is working properly i.e. pumping water?
-zipster

water pumps usually never stop pumping, the seals go bad and they start leaking.

I had a thermostat on our 1200 that started to only open half way and I had symptoms like you describe

The water pump is mechanical, and will pretty much keep 'pumping' even after the seals fail. It probably does lose efficiency, though. The easiest check for the water pump is to pop off the lower radiator hose housing, which exposes the front of the pump. The pump would have very little rotational play, and no side-to-side/up and down movement. Generally speaking, when the seal(s) fail on the pump, oil and/or coolant will leak out the weep hole below the water pump, indicating failure.

Had one of these chrome aftermarket grills on my '85 LTD as well. Measured the chrome centre runs and found that there is a 20% reduction in air flow area because of this. Need all the cooling surface and air flow possible with the 1200 GW rads that are the "high efficiency" rad designed to provide adequate cooling at highway speeds, not so when at slower speeds and in town riding.

Cheers

I ran the bike today with the radiator cap off. I see no indication of circulation at all. Ran it until the temp gauge was starting to register. Nothing. Should I see movement, even before the thermostat should open?
-zipster

I don't think you are going to be able to tell anything from that. The drive for the water pump is mechanical so very very unlikely to fail. Seals will fail and possibly the rotor blades might fail but it would be rare indeed. Maybe it is time to pull the radiator and flush the system with a water hose in the inlet (top, no thermostat) and water the driveway. You can also pull the bottom cover (seals with an O ring) and check for both rotation and lateral movement of the water pump blades. Early style were bake-a-light but most have been replaced with metal rotors. If it is the "plastic" type it should be replaced anyway.

Thanks Easter,
I pulled the cover and the pump is spinning just fine (metal blades). I either have blockage or it's the thermostat.
Thanks,
Zipster

Run some water from your garden hose into the top hose inlet or into the radiator and let it flow for a while. Should be clear.

sure sounds like a thermostat that is not opening, or all the way

I don't have any wings on my '82 1100. Last summer I took a 2,500 mile trip in 9 days, in the 90's every day, tons of highway driving. Temps stayed fine.

Come to Arizona a ride it for a while...

desertrefugee wrote:Come to Arizona a ride it for a while...

but it is a dry heat

So, replaced the thermostat. Flushed everything. Verified pump rotation. All back together and still runs hot according to the gauge. Starting to think my 7v regulator may be a bit off. Shot it with an IR gun, and at the oil filter housing I'm seeing 137 degrees F with the gauge at it's midpoint. I'll shoot it again when the gauge is reading hot.
Ideas?
Cheers,
Zipster

If you have an IR tester, check the temp at the radiator hose right at the thermostat housing. That's going to give you the most accurate coolant temp, which is what you want to know. On my 1100 Interstate, I can watch the gauge drop (slowly, sometimes) when the thermostat initially opens, as well as when the fan kicks on. Operating properly, on very hot days, with the fan running constantly, my actual coolant temp, measured right in the coolant at the radiator fill neck, is just under 200 degrees F. The gauge reads just under half, lol!

Thanks, Track. So if it's 200F at the thermostat housing, it would indicate a blockage or something else going on? My fan doesn't kick on until the gauge is almost all the way to the right. Not sure where it should be kicking on....
Cheers,
Zipster