Valve stem oil seal

[odyssey]

I'm looking at the procedure for replacing the valve stem oil seals without removing the head.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... e+oil+seal

Would it be possible to do this without air pressure to keep the valves closed?

[CYBORG]

Install a length of rope in the spark plug hole and bring the piston up, holding the valves against the rope. Pull the springs, replace the seals

[odyssey]

Great idea, thank you!

[CYBORG]

old school.....just don't forget to leave a tail of the rope out of the hole, so you can remove it when your done

[jdvorchak]

+1 with Cyborg. It's been done that way for years.

[tlbranth]

I did it without rope. I think I just put the piston at tdc to keep the valve from sliding down too far. I modified 2 HF spring compressors to get the arms the same. It was way easier than I thought it would be.

[odyssey]

Sounds good. It didn't work with arms of different lengths?

[tlbranth]

Sounds good. It didn't work with arms of different lengths?

It's been a while but it seems like the compressor has to be modified - maybe only because I read that here on ngw. I'm pretty sure I have 2 of them. If I do, you could have one.

[odyssey]

Thank you, I bought one a few days ago. I was just wondering if I need to mess with it

[tlbranth]

Thank you, I bought one a few days ago. I was just wondering if I need to mess with it

You might. I just bought 2 of them and made a long arm and a short arm version. Give it a try. If it doesn't work, buy another and customize.

[Wildfire1]

Install a length of rope in the spark plug hole and bring the piston up, holding the valves against the rope. Pull the springs, replace the seals

I guess that's providing you removed the timing belts and cams first so you can get at the valve springs and their locks?

[CYBORG]

Wrong. Belts do NOT have to be removed to do valve seals. Cams do NOT need to be removed

[odyssey]

Terry, I ended up making a small modification to the tool to prevent the arms from expanding (picture below). I would make the hooks of this tool a bit more curved at the end and limit their movement outwards. And then I would charge more than the $10 that I paid for it .

For the next victims: in addition to compressing the spring, I had to push the tool towards the cylinder. I then used a magnet to remove the cotters (metal stick in my right hand in the picture). The seal came off easily after removing its inner spring using a pick. I ended up not inserting a rope and the valve did not move much downwards as I placed the cylinder at TDC. Putting it back together was, as expected, a bit of a pain. Pressing the spring helped gain enough room to insert the cotters.

[calif wingnut]

https://www.harborfreight.com/universal ... 60335.html $13

Qi-ron and I modified a pair in 2011 drilling the rivet out and using a intake manifold bolt.