Painting frame noob

[Chang_G_Wing]

Hey whats up everyone. So as people can see, winter is nearly here and I've been wanting to get rid of dings all over my bike. Has anyone seen any threads about completely taking apart the bike to paint the frame or anyone done this before on here and can offer words of wisdom, dos and don't do or is this project pretty straight forward? Any advice for my journey would greatly be appreciated. Here what she looks like all over.

[wingrider]

Easy to do. Unbolt everything and take it all off. Paint or powder coat...let dry either way. Reassemble in reverse order of taking apart, and securely tighten everything that was unbolted.

In all seriousness, if you don’t have a good shop manual, get one. If you do, look through it in it’s entirety before picking up a wrench, and then follow along each section to disassemble bike.

Having a good space that is clean to work is nice, as you will have a lot of parts laying around. Label bolts and hangers using zip lock bags. Drain all fluids before taking things apart.

[Chang_G_Wing]

Yeah, I just read the similar topics below. I guess powder coating is the way to go. I was almost thinking just spot sanding, base and clear.

[RB]

Take lots of pics before yoiu take anything off.especially wiring routes..

[tomk1960]

Powder coat it. It will be difficult to keep a wet edge during painting and you might end up unhappy with the end result. If you PC, ask the shop to lay down a coat of zinc primer first. This will prevent rust and your finish coat will end up even smoother.

[Lucien Harpress]

Best advice was to take plenty of photos, write down the order the main components came out so they can go back in in reverse (some don't matter, but you'll be kicking yourself for the ones that do), and once you start, do it all in one go- don't expect to remember how things go in six months. YOU WON'T.

Now, as far as powdercoat goes- fantastic option. Two things to remember:

-ALL the grease will have to go. Swingarm and front stem are the biggies. Because PC is heat based, the process will melt any grease you have left and ruin the finish.

-If it gets scuffed (like while putting the motor back in), it's a lot harder to touch up than paint. This is personal preference at this point.

Speaking of motors, the GL is better about getting engine in and out compared to my CB750 due to the removeable subframe, but if you're taking it all the way down, it's easier to maneuver an empty frame around a motor than to get a motor out of and lined up into a frame.

Good luck!

[delling3]

As others have said, get a shop manual or a Clymer's manual (or both) if you don't already have them. Dissasembly is relatively straight-forward, but there are a few areas which can be challenging for a first timer. Some of these include removal of the carbs (not overly hard, but can be finicky so follow the procedures), removal of drive shaft (retaining pin can be difficult to access, easily lost), removal of the engine (not technical but heavy/cumbersome), removal of gas tank (very tight fit, may require some "persuasion").

Check the frame carefully - in particular around the center stand, for corrosion. The time to repair anything is now!

Powder coating is my preference - others have had good experience with paint. If you are just trying to clean and touch up any minor faults, paint is the way to go.

Document what you do with pictures, diagrams and notes.

It's time consuming, but it's winter - you have time!

[robin1731]

As others have said, get a shop manual or a Clymer's manual (or both) if you don't already have them. Dissasembly is relatively straight-forward, but there are a few areas which can be challenging for a first timer. Some of these include removal of the carbs (not overly hard, but can be finicky so follow the procedures), removal of drive shaft (retaining pin can be difficult to access, easily lost), removal of the engine (not technical but heavy/cumbersome), removal of gas tank (very tight fit, may require some "persuasion").

Check the frame carefully - in particular around the center stand, for corrosion. The time to repair anything is now!

Powder coating is my preference - others have had good experience with paint. If you are just trying to clean and touch up any minor faults, paint is the way to go.

Document what you do with pictures, diagrams and notes.

It's time consuming, but it's getting closer to winter - you have time!

Fixed it for you.

.

[flyin900]

I have painted lots of frames on my past restorations without any issues in the painting process, although this is done in the spring and summer. If you don't have a warm place to paint now then powder coating is your best option.
For frame paint I use a gloss black DupliColor rattle can paint called high build fleet paint in a slightly larger spray can than normal. It sprays a little heavier than a normal can, so it takes a little practice and builds a nice thick coat that is both chemical resistant and quite durable.

[tlbranth]

Here's another vote for LOTS of pictures. Put small parts, nuts & bolts into plastic bags with labels.

[HOTT]

I USE TO always powder coat. Love it. Great hard finish, but...
Now I used Single Stage (type not brand name) on framed & motors. It is a catalized color & clear urethane.
*Now I control the finish process.
*You get a thick hard finish that doesn't chip.
*Any color that can be mixed.
*You can match any mishaps.
*It can be mixed with a retarding reducer to help with dry spots common in painting frames.
*It can be applied over standard body fillers.
*Runs and dirt can be touched up.
*no need for post masking flash touch ups.
* Costs Le$$
So what about strength ? Properly applied you can't and won't know the difference between PC.
Some frame builders will tell you it is more resistant to delayed impact chipping.
That is, a chip showing up days after you dropped a wrench on it
Recommend you sand blast first. It really helps you locate problem rust.

DSC_0406.JPG (108.26 KiB) Viewed 151 times

HOTT (just another guys' take)

[warhead_71]

I guess I'm a cheapskate or just too lazy to strip the bike down to the frame. I use the "Tractor and Farm Implement" spray paint for touch-ups... it's fuel resistant and very durable. I've had good luck keeping a wet edge for a nice finish.

[tlbranth]

My friend, Peter, who's a car restorer painted mine for me. He usually uses Glasurit paint at 1200 bucks per gallon but he's had good luck with stuff from TCPGlobal at substantially lower cost. I sandblasted the frame and he used epoxy sealer followed by single-stage Urethane semi-gloss black. I think it was Hotrod Flatz frame paint. Ca't find it right now. The color was single-stage Hotrod Flatz Olive Drab.

[Lucien Harpress]

I guess I'm a cheapskate or just too lazy to strip the bike down to the frame. I use the "Tractor and Farm Implement" spray paint for touch-ups... it's fuel resistant and very durable. I've had good luck keeping a wet edge for a nice finish.

There is a type of (single stage) spray paint my brother got his hands on once. It's a bit pricey, but it is absolutely amazing. Goes on over nearly everything, and is more scratch resistant than some two-stage paints I've used. It's a tractor paint, but industrial-strength. You can't get it at places like Tractor Supply- you need to go to an actual dealer to pick it up (CASE, in this case). I'll try to get a brand name, but I used nearly a whole can on my CB750 restoration, and it worked amazingly.