Anyone ever had a radiator recored?

[John Schmidt]

Of all things, after replacing all the valve stem seals, replacing a leaking front cam seal on the left side(think Valdez oil spill on the floor) and getting the thing running again....now I spotted a leak in the radiator. It hasn't caused any trouble the last three years whenever I'd run the engine, worked fine, fan finally came on when it should after replacing the thermoswitch. Today after a short run for some errands, I parked it in the garage with it running a couple minutes before shutting it down...quite pleased with the way it ran. Took the stuff in the house and when I came back out there was a small puddle under the front of the motor. After a quick check with a flashlight, I see a wet spot coming from about the center of the radiator on the back side. What next? I just got it all back together, now it has to come out again, strip off the fan and external hardware and take it to a radiator shop to see if it's even repairable. So I'm wondering....if it's not able to be fixed has anyone ever had one of these units recored?

[Rednaxs60]

Had a new rad core installed on my '85 LTD. The cores are still available, bit pricey. Mine was $364.00 CDN in change - of course I'm north of the border and I'm on Vancouver Island. The 1200 rad is a high efficiency rad, smaller than the 1000/1100, sufficient cooling to operate the bike at highway speeds. Honda expects the bikes to heat up in stop/go traffic, and idling at stop lights, etc, but once back on the road should cool down quickly.

My rad fan comes on somewhere after the temp gauge on the dash shows 6 bars. Proved this on my second '85 LTD as well, both work the same regarding the rad fan.

People who can do install new rad cores are getting fewer. There is only one shop doing this work on the island here, and once the fellow retires, I expect this service may not be available anymore.

Checked my invoice and don't have a part number, but can drop out to the shop and get it for you if you would like.

Good luck.

[Whiskerfish]

I had one repaired, soldered up a crack where it got hit. Was pretty cheap as I recall.

[5speed]

I went this route.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63556

[scootsx2]

I had the radiator recored when I resurrected my CX500-based police trike. The recore was done by a local industrial radiator shop. Cost around $300 as I recall. Not cheap but it's effectively a new radiator.

[John Schmidt]

I went this route.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63556

I remember that post and the overflow nipple angle plus the angle of the neck. If fixing what I have turns into a money pit I might look into something like yours.

[5speed]

I went this route.
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63556

I remember that post and the overflow nipple angle plus the angle of the neck. If fixing what I have turns into a money pit I might look into something like yours.

moving the coil to the other side of the bracket fixed the neck angle issue and most of the overflow nipple issue.
I was quoted somewhere between $400 and $500 to recore mine..

[dbtroudy]

I had the radiator on my '76 GL1000 yellow re-cored a few years back. I took to a radiator shop that had been in business for many years and were familiar with brass radiators. The rodded out the radiator and re-soldered the upper and lower collection tanks. The rebuild ran about $100. I have been very happy with the results.

D.

[John Schmidt]

NEW QUESTION:
I have an aftermarket temp gauge mounted and the sensor is mounted in the upper radiator hose. That makes it a real pain to R&R the radiator since there isn't much room and the sensor mount makes the hose rather difficult/stiff to move around. My NEW question is....has anyone ever used an aftermarket gauge with the OEM sensor without changing out the temp sensor on the t'stat housing? I'd really like to rid myself of the sensor and mount on the radiator hose but since the OEM sensor is kinda buried in there I'm thinking that's not really going to be an easy swap if I have to replace it with the aftermarket unit. Any suggestions while I have the radiator out for repair?

[CYBORG]

I always use the sensor that comes with the gauge. I would think it is easier then messing with the top hose

[John Schmidt]

I always use the sensor that comes with the gauge. I would think it is easier then messing with the top hose

It is without a doubt, I just didn't want to have the job of trying to get at the OEM sensor to install the aftermarket sensor. The only other possibility might be if there's another location others have found functional when installing a sensor, somewhere else on the engine block. I just want to get away from the hose having the aftermarket sensor mounted, making that hose a real bugger to get on/off the radiator....plus I think it looks kinda tacky.

I'm thinking(dangerous) since the radiator is out for repair, I might pull the aftermarket sensor since it's easily accessed. Hang it in a pot of oil and test it like you do the OEM unit. If it matches or comes close to the same resistance readings the OEM sensor does I might just hook up the OEM wire and go with that.

[CYBORG]

Not sure how hard it is to get to yours, but on my 1200, with full fairing, I go in from the right side with a long extension, a socket, and a swivel . And with the radiator out, should be even easier.

[John Schmidt]

Not sure how hard it is to get to yours, but on my 1200, with full fairing, I go in from the right side with a long extension, a socket, and a swivel . And with the radiator out, should be even easier.

Sure you're not thinking of the fan thermo switch? With the radiator out it's now out in the open because it's in front of the air dam. The sensor is right behind the air dam, you can hardly see it let alone get to it.

[CYBORG]

Good point. Think about doing it without the air dam.. I always remove the air dam on all my bikes, and sometimes forget that makes it different then stock. I feel that the air dam is just that,..a dam. It restrict the air flow thru the radiator, so I remove them. Of course, that also makes carb removal , and engine removal easier. I also use pusher electric fans for more air flow. So the system I use is totally different then stock

[John Schmidt]

I have a couple things mounted to the outer edge of that air dam(Wolo air horn on the right side) but I might be able to use a die grinder with a cutting blade to remove a bottom section of it. That would promote more ram air flow over the motor and give better access to such things as the temp sensor. Guess I'll take a look at the feasibility of it and go from there.