1982 Aspencade no spark

[freedom]

Hi,

I did the Neon coil swap to my bike and I am not getting a spark. I have new spark plugs, new spark plug leads, and new boots.

Please bear with me as my knowledge of electrical systems is very limited. I am sure I will ask some stupid questions. Sorry in advance.

Question about the Neon coil:
1. What should the primary and secondary resistance be for the Neon coil?

I am following the service manual troubleshooting guidelines and have some questions about the ignition circuit.
1. Measure cranking voltage - This is where the screw up is occurring I guess. I am getting a negative reading here. How is that even possible?
2. Measure voltage drop at coil - same, I am getting a negative reading.

Primary circuit check:
1. Check pulse coil resistance. Should have 530 Ohms ± 50 Ohms - I got a reading of 497 and 487 (the temperature in my garage was 25 degrees and the recommended temperature listed in the manual is 68 degrees).
2. Check pulse generator for short to ground. Should be infinite - My measurement reading was infinite.
3. Check for battery voltage at spark unit B/W wire. Should be approximately 12V. I checked both spark units. Both check out at similar voltage 11.80 to 11.95.

I am a little confused by this point. Of course my knowledge of a motorcycle is limited so I would really appreciate your help with this point. My question about this point is that they want us to attach positive probe of a voltmeter to the blue/yellow wire in the six pin connector and the negative probe to ground (bike frame). They then want us to turn the ignition on. What am I looking for here? What is the recommended reading? They immediately jump to testing the 4 pin connector plug and want us to ground the white/blue terminal. For this they do tell us what the reading should be. This is confusing because then what is the point of grounding the blue/yellow wire terminal in the six pin connector in the first place?

[Track T 2411]

The directions aren't really clear on the Spark unit test... With the voltmeter hooked up as described, when you turn on the ignition, you should see 12v. Leaving the voltmeter hooked up, then intermittently ground the appropriate wire on the 4 pin connector with a separate wire, and you should see the voltage drop. Clear as mud, no?

Just a thought about the negative voltage readings on the other tests... did you make sure you didn't have the leads reversed? Sounds pretty simple, but I've done it myself...

[desertrefugee]

Did the bike run before the coil swap? If so, why would the pulse unit be suspect? Sounds like primary circuit to the coils could be rotten. Having both coils arrive bad would seem unusual.

[freedom]

The directions aren't really clear on the Spark unit test... With the voltmeter hooked up as described, when you turn on the ignition, you should see 12v. Leaving the voltmeter hooked up, then intermittently ground the appropriate wire on the 4 pin connector with a separate wire, and you should see the voltage drop. Clear as mud, no?

Thanks, that makes it clearer.

Just a thought about the negative voltage readings on the other tests... did you make sure you didn't have the leads reversed? Sounds pretty simple, but I've done it myself...

Yeah I posted on another forum and someone suggested the same thing. I will look into this.

[freedom]

Did the bike run before the coil swap? If so, why would the pulse unit be suspect? Sounds like primary circuit to the coils could be rotten. Having both coils arrive bad would seem unusual.

No the bike didn't run before the swap.

[jdvorchak]

Update?

Just from what I read your pulse generators are fine. So next step is to see if the coils are ok. That only leave the CDI box as the cause for no spark.

[jdvorchak]

Or the kill switch is in the stop position.