Seized 81 GL1100

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Perfikt
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Seized 81 GL1100

#1

Post by Perfikt »

So I just picked up an 81 GL1100 with a seized motor. Looking for some advice on how to proceed.

I was told the bike has been sitting for a while (6 months+, possibly more in the year to years range), with the carbs removed.

Thus far I have tried rolling in high gear with the plugs pulled, adding *copious* amounts of ATF to the cylinders, and gone as far as removing the timing covers to check belts. I tried to crank on the center bolt under the covers, to no avail, but I'm not sure how hard I want to be cranking it, or in what direction.

Here's an overview of the bike,
Overview
Overview
20180731_211227.jpg (172.96 KiB) Viewed 343 times
And inside the timing case..
Timing
Timing
20180802_193339.jpg (158.19 KiB) Viewed 343 times
Timing
Timing
20180802_193327.jpg (175.47 KiB) Viewed 343 times
I'm new to bikes, had to start with a non runner because that was all the budget allowed for. Amy advice is appreciated!
Nick

1981 GL1100 - Currently not running..
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#2

Post by desertrefugee »

Looks like it's time to introduce the elixir of your choice into the cylinders (anything from diesel to ATF and points in between).

Meanwhile, it is possible that the clutch plates have stuck together fooling you into thinking the motor's stuck. That would be your best scenario.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#3

Post by Perfikt »

Thanks for the reply, the cylinders are already bathing in ATF (use what you have), so I'll let them sit for a few days I guess.

What other signs would point towards clutch plates? I happen to know the clutch handle will not engage the clutch, so is that more likely my problem?

If so, what is my next course of action? More research I guess?

If it is, upside is those cylinders will be well marinated!

Thanks!
Nick

1981 GL1100 - Currently not running..
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#4

Post by ericheath »

Most do as suggested above. You have to be patient, but there are no guarantees it will loosen up nor is there a guarantee that it won’t have damaged cylinder walls, rings, ring lands.

Several years to 13 years ago a person posted using two gallons of 350 degree heated oil. I think he drained the old oil and used vegetable oil heated in a turkey fryer kettle. You would need to be extremely careful using a metal funnel to pour it in.

As I recall it loosened up right away. Still, no knowing of what it’s really like, but even “runners” are unknowns.

It won’t hurt to remove the valve covers to make sure it hasn’t had a broken valve.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#5

Post by Perfikt »

Call me crazy, but I think I'll shy away from the boiling hot oil. That doesn't sound like a good time to me. Haha.

I'll let it sit a while and then try my hand/high gear cranking again. Is there much chance the whole non engaging clutch could be the problem as well though? I looked at the clutch.. lever?.. on the trans while actuating the handle and it has very little movement. It basically goes from 3 o'clock to about 2:30.

If hand/high gear doesn't work soon I'll pop the covers and see what it looks like inside.
Nick

1981 GL1100 - Currently not running..
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#6

Post by chewy999 »

Turn either of the bolts clockwise. The bolt holding the centre pulley is torqued to a high value, can't remember what off the top of my head, so after leaving it to soak for a couple of days in atf or whatever you're using you can apply a good 'grunt' on the wrench, with spark plugs removed, bike in neutral despite possible clutch sticking.
I would also remove the valve covers but may be hard to tell of anything's wrong.

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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#7

Post by todd54219 »

You can pull the clutch out and maybe pull the heads. I would start with the clutch first. If no joy then pull the heads. If stuck pistons you can still put the heads back on and fill with penetrant to loosen them and replace the gaskets if necessary when you get it broken loose and feel there is no damage to cylinders.

JMHO
Good luck and keep us informed as to the outcome.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#8

Post by salukispeed »

I do not believe the clutch can be the issue as you need it totally engaged/locked to allow the rear tire to transmit the torque to the engine. It would only cause issue once you wanted to disengage for shifting My 84 was solidly frozen and took over a week of trying back and forth every day to free it. I ended up with wrenches on both the crank pulley bolt and the alternator rotor bolt and worked them and the rear tire in 5th at the same time with my son to finally get it loose. Do not turn the rotor bolt counter clockwise as it is not all that tight and you do not want to loosen it as it could come loose again at a later time. Patience and perseverance. is best
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#9

Post by Sagebrush »

I think I would pull the heads just to see what you're dealing with. When these old engines have been sitting for a lengthy time it seems they will blow a head gasket in fairly short order once put back in use. If the carbs have been off for awhile and it was outside you may get one look at the cylinders and cut your losses. You may also be pleasantly surprised. At least you'll know what your dealing with.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#10

Post by JSBail »

My 83 interstate was locked up when i first got it due to it setting outside too long with spark plugs that weren't tight and water getting by them and into the cyls. I was prepared to pull the engine apart but decided to first try to free it up and see what it would do so I made up a 50/50 mix of trans fluid and acetone and filled the cyls up with it and let it set for a week. The thought process with the acetone mixed with the trans fluid is that the acetone thins the trans fluid up so it can penetrate deeper than trans fluid alone could, the acetone then evaporates leaving the trans fluid behind where it penetrated. After setting for a week I then hopped on the bike, put it in gear with the clutch in and and started pushing it forward, got it rolling then popped the clutch, pulled the clutch back in and rolled it backwards then popped the clutch again. I basically kept rolling it back and forth popping the clutch and after about the 5th time it started to turn over.

In my case I got lucky because not only was I able to free it up without tearing it down but didn't break a piston ring doing it. After rebuilding the carbs the time came to see if it would actually run and once it did fire up it did of course continue to smoke after the trans fluid burnt off and had dismal compression but the more it ran and the longer I rode the bike the less it smoked to the point it stopped smoking and the compression came back up. Compression has never come up to ideal but it's acceptable and I have no doubts that if I were to put it on a dyno it wouldn't put out the same power of a GL1100 in good shape but it does run well enough for me to trust it on cross country road trips.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#11

Post by rcmatt007 »

it is good the belts are good. I think I let my 79 sit for a week or so before I tried to move it. if you can get it into neutral then at least you are not trying to turn the rear end. when I got it to move a bit, I gently moved the main bolt between the pulleys back and forth (not enough to loosen the bolt) and then finally it turned. It only takes a little gum to make it hard to turn

Or, bit the bullet and take the heads off
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#12

Post by Whiskerfish »

Yea First I am with Sagebrush. I would pop the heads and do a good exam. Forgoing that....

If you pull the clutch lever in and the bike rolls in gear then the clutch is not the issue. Even if you do not pull the heads you want to drop the headers as odds are high they are filling with atf and will be a huge smoke and fire potential once you do get it to fire up.

Once you do get it to move even a hair stop and let it soak more. If you force it past the rust line you will do damage. I have done 3 locked up from rust in the jugs. I think only 1 ever made it back into service and I worked it for weeks and weeks slowly getting it to pass beyond the rust rings smoothly and flushing out the residual. Start very slowly until you feel the rust line then a few days later work it by hand a bit more and then a few days later a bit more etc etc etc . Eventually you should not feel the rust lines at all then you can start using the starter motor to turn it over. The slower you proceed and the more soaks in between the higher your odds of success.
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#13

Post by Perfikt »

So it seems to be 50/50 on let it sit with the ATF and just pull the heads. Since the ATF is already in there, I'll probably let it be for a couple days. Worst case it might be easier to work on on the bench.

As for the clutch, if I pop the bike into gear and then engage the clutch handle, the bike maintains it's in gear state. I can't move it at all. Should I be removing the clutch while the rest sits?

Sitting and looking at it makes me antsy. I want to make it work! Or, know for sure that it's dead and start looking for new pieces.
Nick

1981 GL1100 - Currently not running..
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#14

Post by rcmatt007 »

it can be tricky to get these bikes into neutral. while the bike is on the center stand try moving the rear wheel back and forth and that may allow you to change gears
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The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
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76 Ltd "cookies bike" ALMOST DONE
79 project, finished, FOR SALE
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Re: Seized 81 GL1100

#15

Post by robin1731 »

Cable operated clutch? Put the bike in gear. Tie the clutch lever back to the handlebar. Then rock the rear tire back and forth. That usually breaks the clutch plates loose. Most any bike over time sitting will have the plates stick together. Even just over a winter sometimes. In that case you can hold the brake, engine running, lever pulled, and put it in gear and it may just break free and be fine. I've had them kill the engine when doing that but it broke loose and was fine afterward. If it's real bad though that won't work so only try it once.

In your case holding the lever back and rocking the tire back and forth is the better way to do it. Usually a few times back and forth and the plates will loosen up.

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