New Season, Same Problem!

[CYBORG]

Did you utilize a seal protector to install the double lip seal?

Greatly reduces the probability of rolling the inner seal lip under itself when starting the double lip seal onto the shaft.

I used an old microfiche over the crankshaft from a tip I found somewhere on this site. If someone could confirm how it should be done that way I would appreciate it, I just wrapped the fiche around the shaft, fed the seal on after smearing engine oil on the seal itself, and tapped it in place using a large piece of pipe. The pipe was a fraction smaller than the OD of the seal body.

Thats how I would have done it

[gltriker]

Did you utilize a seal protector to install the double lip seal?

Greatly reduces the probability of rolling the inner seal lip under itself when starting the double lip seal onto the shaft.

I used an old microfiche over the crankshaft from a tip I found somewhere on this site. If someone could confirm how it should be done that way I would appreciate it, I just wrapped the fiche around the shaft, fed the seal on after smearing engine oil on the seal itself, and tapped it in place using a large piece of pipe. The pipe was a fraction smaller than the OD of the seal body.

Thats how I would have done it

Me, too!

[Whiskerfish]

Years ago I read a number of different place that these engines were not rebuild-able. We all know that is not true but the reason given was crank case warpage. The prevailing thought was that after a few hundred heat cycles these cases being so large and thin they would develop twists or warps. Our local GL guru is a guy named Dave here at Honda of Norfolk. He helped uncrate the very first 75 that arrived in Virginia and has been the local "go to" guy since. I had a long talk with him on the subject once. He told me he rebuilt the first one in 77 and it would not rotate. They waited and got some Factory Engineers on site and they exhausted all their efforts without success.

I can not but wonder if you are experiencing an issue related to this.

[chewy999]

That sounds terminal!!! I truly hope not.



The strange thing is, I was convinced I had sorted it as there were no apparent leaks last year and even when I first started her up over the Winter until about the fourth time. Will have a deeper look next week and get back.

[flyin900]

Chewy,

It probably isn’t as cold in England as over here in the Great White North, yet it maybe the seal is leaking from the cold weather. You may find once the temperature is back into the normal spring/summer range it may stop leaking.
Once the motor gets up to normal operating temperature and runs for sometime, see if it is still weeping from the seal area.

[chewy999]

I've had a brainwave, (I think), but ready for ridicule or to be told not to be such a Buffoon!!!

Lying in the bath, now there's a vision you'll want to burn from your imagination, is where I do my best thinking.

The problem is that with the engine running and the belt covers removed, I can't see the crankshaft seal which is behind plate #10 here,

honda-gl1100-goldwing-1980-a-usa-front-covertiming-belt_bighu0136e3a01_c23c.jpg (100 KiB) Viewed 203 times

but the oil is leaking down into the belt area of the engine casing.

This is what I plan to try,

1. Remove belts and the centre pully assembly.

2. Loosen valve rockers

3. Remove spark plugs

4. Rotate engine by hand to confirm cylinders don't hit valves.

5. Using a suitable socket and attachments in a power drill, rotate the engine via the bolt at the rear of the engine.

In my head, if I can turn the engine quick enough, any oil leak should be seen so I can determine where the exact problem lies!

Not in any rush to try this plan, but any advice would be appreciated.

[CYBORG]

don't think it will work. 1) you can't rotate the engine fast enough that way. Using the starter would turn it faster.
2) The oil will not be hot, and as thin as it is when the engine is running normally

3} just removing the belt covers gives you a pretty good view of the crank area. Even with the belts on. I would remove the covers, clean the area very well. aand start the engine, observing the are with a strong light

[chewy999]

don't think it will work. 1) you can't rotate the engine fast enough that way. Using the starter would turn it faster.
That makes sense so long as I turn the isolating switch to off

2) The oil will not be hot, and as thin as it is when the engine is running normally

I could run the engine before I start to get the oil hot

3} just removing the belt covers gives you a pretty good view of the crank area. Even with the belts on. I would remove the covers, clean the area very well. aand start the engine, observing the are with a strong light

I have done this several times with the covers off. All I can see is the oil leaking from behind the plate but not the actual seal. So is it leaking from the shaft/seal, seal/engine body or the two engine halves?

[CYBORG]

Pull it down to expose the bear crank should show the source of the leak

[chewy999]

Pull it down to expose the bear crank should show the source of the leak

I'll have a look as I go, maybe this week!

[05c50]

It's been a while since I read your original thread about this leak, so I don't remember if this was discussed. Have you tried using tracer dye to isolate the leak? Also have you considered pressurizing the crankcase with front pulley off to locate the exact location of the leak? These are two fairly common oil leak diagnosis procedures.

....Paul

[chewy999]

It's been a while since I read your original thread about this leak, so I don't remember if this was discussed. Have you tried using tracer dye to isolate the leak? Also have you considered pressurizing the crankcase with front pulley off to locate the exact location of the leak? These are two fairly common oil leak diagnosis procedures.

....Paul

Thanks for the tips. How would you pressurise the crankcase?

[Sidecar Bob]

I'm mostly replying to get myself subscribed to the thread but I would think you should be able to pressurize it via the crankcase breather. I would fill the engine wit oil above the level of the shaft and put a heater under it long enough to make sure the oil is fairly thin, then apply maybe 5 PSI to the breather and watch the seal.

[05c50]

I responded to this thread the other day, but for some reason it didn't post. Do exactly as Bob has suggested. Since you have the abilty to run the engine with the covers off, you probaby won't need the heater to warm the oil, it should only take a few minutes to remove the belts and pulley. If you had some way to raise the rear of the bike to force the oil forward to raise the level, you might not need to overfill the oil. I would start with the lowest pressure and move up as needed, but don't excede 5 pounds. You might be able to get enough pressure using the "blow" end of a shop vac.

..............Paul

[chewy999]

Thanks for all the help and advice. Will have a go when the weather settles down a bit as I don't have a large workspace and would prefer to do it outside as I'm bound to make a mess!