Water pump

[tory]

Started my 1978 finally. Runs great but I think I have a water pump leak. Pump feels rtght so I thought I was good. But it has been over 20 years so....

I have done a couple 1100s and 1200 but those had 8mm bolt heads that I could get a socket on. I am concerned the screw heads on the 1000 will pose a bigger challenge. Any advice to help ease my pain?

[Oldewing]

Impact driver is your friend here. Tap with a hammer to get that first quarter turn. They will come along...

[Pony Ruiz]

if that doesn't work. take a 1/4" chisel and tap off the screw head with that. I had to do that on just about every fastener to get the front cover off on a 1000 I had. I was lucky no heads busted off. maybe put some pb blaster or other on it first. Or apply some heat, then the lubricant, then try it.

Of course replace with proper stainless something or other. I chose socket heads.

one heads up...don't over tighten the screws on the back of the cover that hold the water pump on. I did and the washers that provide the seal deformed instead of remaining flat. there was probably a torque spec somewhere I didn't follow.

Nice bike!

[tory]

Impact driver is your friend here. Tap with a hammer to get that first quarter turn. They will come along...

Can I get an impact to them all with the motor in the bike?

[tory]

if that doesn't work. take a 1/4" chisel and tap off the screw head with that. I was lucky no heads busted off.

Nice bike!

Tap off?

[Pony Ruiz]

as in put the chisel on the screw head and tap / hit it counter clockwise.

[gltriker]

Screw head drive configuration is JIS, not Phillips.

Not sure whether they are JIS # 1 or #2.

VESSEL makes very good JIS screwdrivers.
Find them on Amazon.

Although I haven't purchased one of their VESSEL Impacta screwdrivers for this type of service, someone may have. ???

Done.

[Track T 2411]

+1 on the JIS driver. While I haven't done a 1000's in the frame, when I did my 1100's, I used a longer 1/4 drive extension to get at a couple of the bolts blocked by the frame, and lots of pb blaster.

[tory]

I do have vessel screw drivers. My concern was getting them broke loose initially.
I do not have JIC impact bits. Do the offer them?
And I am also worried about the accessibility of all the screws with the motor in the bike.

[robin1731]

I do have vessel screw drivers. My concern was getting them broke loose initially.
I do not have JIC impact bits. Do the offer them?
And I am also worried about the accessibility of all the screws with the motor in the bike.

The regular bits for a hand impact fit the screws fine. #2 bit. Yes you can do it in the frame. Need an extension to get to a couple of them and you still won't be on them square but close enough to work if you are careful.

.

[pidjones]

Motion Pro markets JIS 1/4" hex drive bits, available on Amazon. These may need #3. I've used an impact adapter to hold the bit. Patience is important! If you end up completly rounding out a head, use a drill (left-hand may have a chance to bite and hold) to remove the head - the drive cross should pretty well center you. After all bolts are off and the cover removed you can use more penetrant, time, and vice grips on the remaining bolt.

[sphen]

i bought one of the run of the mill impacts off amazon, and the included bit(s) fit JIS screws fine. IIRC it came with #2 and #3.

Any reason not to replace with hex bolts while you have them off?

[pidjones]

Some don't like the SS in aluminum combination. It would be great if you could find the correct strength Allen heads in cadmium plated steel. Then you could snap them off after they bind up and save the drilling. I don't think there is a better solution (but there are worse - don't use Phillips head!) except to lubricate whatever you use with a good anti-sieze.

I've read good comments on Robin's bolt kit, BTW.

[tory]

Robins bolt kit? Is there a link?

[Rat]

robin1731 .... he’s a member here .... PM him and he'll fix you up ....

Gord