1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

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low-side
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1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#1

Post by low-side »

I've got a weird one here. I have a customized '78 that has been back burner for some time that I'm trying to button up. Rebuilt carbs setting float height per FSM; rebuilt cylinder head on that side (both intake valves were bent from a belt failure before I got it); both cylinders and pistons looked great; and plenum is bone dry. Left bank is flooding - flames shooting out the exhaust then the plugs foul out flooding. It did it with the junk carbs it came with, my spare rack, and my rebuilt rack. Before and after the head rebuild. If you let the carbs fill and shut the fuel off it will idle and rev cleanly until the bowls empty. I know it sounds like float height, but all are set the same and only the left side floods. I'm going to pull them when I get the chance, but has anyone else out there run into a situation like this?
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Whiskerfish
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#2

Post by Whiskerfish »

Are you doing a synch on installation? Years Back I had a situation with a # 4 carb doing all kinds of crazy crap. I tried 2 different rebuilt racks and a known good rack off a running bike. After a week or more I finally found a hairline crack in the brass tube of my Merc Sticks for the # 4 carb. Turned out I had adjusted 3 different racks the same bad way and induced the problem due to false readings.
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77Gowing
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#3

Post by 77Gowing »

it sucks when your instrumentation fails. Or when your relied upon standards fail. Bet you were glad you found it, and that you werent crazy after all.
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
cfairweather
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#4

Post by cfairweather »

I would start with the following list and go from there:

1. Use clear tubes attached to the float bowl drain hole to see the exact level while the issue is occurring. Move the clear tube to the outside edge of each carb and the level should be just above the bottom edge where the bowl and the carb mate. If the level is higher than the top part of the edge, you need to adjust the float. If it goes way high, the float valve is leaking.

2. Verify the timing belt marks are properly aligned. Use a ruler and carefully align it on the two lines that are 180 degrees apart on the belt wheel. The ruler should then align exactly on the case mark. Check both sides using a ruler. The reason I suggest verifying the marks, is because the issue is happening on one side.

3. Verify the tappets, points/electronic ignition and timing are set correctly.

4. Check the resistance of the spark plug caps to make sure they are close to 5000 ohms.
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77Gowing
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#5

Post by 77Gowing »

cfairweather wrote: Sat Aug 29, 2020 10:38 pm I would start with the following list and go from there:

1. Use clear tubes attached to the float bowl drain hole to see the exact level while the issue is occurring. Move the clear tube to the outside edge of each carb and the level should be just above the bottom edge where the bowl and the carb mate. If the level is higher than the top part of the edge, you need to adjust the float. If it goes way high, the float valve is leaking.
A simple manommeter. Genius and absolute. However, making a fitting that fits the drain hole threads that would seal would be quite a project. But, if one were to have a spare drain & seal, the drain screw could be drilled out and a small brass fitting could be inserted to allow a clear silicone tube to be placed over it. Interesting.
I'm leaning toward belt being off a tooth from the sound of how it runs.
First belt change on a GL1000 I ever did ran the same way. I kept trying to get the right side cam to line up but would move under cam/tappet pressure. That is until I employed WF's zip tye method of holding the wrench in position on the right hand cam bolt. I'll admit the first time i read about the zip tye method i had little faith. But after struggling for hours to get the marks to line up perfectly, I gave it a go and it worked like TEN. Made me a believer, let me tell you.
I hope you find what is doing this. Good luck, you'll get there.
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
cfairweather
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#6

Post by cfairweather »

I use four of these to verify the floats are set and working correctly. You can get by with one, but it is a hassle and takes longer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Carburet ... SwlkheGD~H

I agree with 77Gowing about the timing belts being at least part of the issue. The ruler method of verifying the timing marks are perfectly aligned will probably reveal that the belts are off by one tooth. It is easy to make this error because unless you are looking at the marks from the front with your eyes at exactly the same level as the marks, they make look aligned when they are not. Another factor in getting the marks to align perfectly is the belt tension. When the marks are perfectly aligned, the tension will be correct. You will notice that the tension is different when you turn the crank 360 degrees. When fine tuning the tension, set the left side and then turn the crank 360 degrees before fine tuning the right side tension. The engine will run great when the marks are perfectly aligned.
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#7

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

Yes, I used a few of those on my KZ650 and Virago 700 - kind of pricey, but they are nice to have....


So what are those little brass fittings called, and where might I find them...?
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77Gowing
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Re: 1978 GL1000 Flooding Left Bank

#8

Post by 77Gowing »

cfairweather wrote: Sun Aug 30, 2020 8:23 am I use four of these to verify the floats are set and working correctly. You can get by with one, but it is a hassle and takes longer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Carburet ... SwlkheGD~H

I agree with 77Gowing about the timing belts being at least part of the issue. The ruler method of verifying the timing marks are perfectly aligned will probably reveal that the belts are off by one tooth. It is easy to make this error because unless you are looking at the marks from the front with your eyes at exactly the same level as the marks, they make look aligned when they are not.
This condition where you cannot look squarely over the object you are looking at is called, PARALAX, and has to do with the angle of view being offset to the right or left of center view of the object. This is why on old VOMs and other analog multimeters there often is found a curved mirror behind the measurement needle. So, when you look at such a meter, you line up your view of the needle with the reflection of the needle and come up with a squared up view that is accurate as the rating of the range the mete is on. Paralax:
"Parallax definition, the apparent displacement of an observed object due to a change in the position of the observer." Dictionary.com
"Less is More" Anonymous

77Gowing
1977 GL1000 "O'le Blue." (sold :crying)
2014 Yamaha 950 V Star (sold)
2017 Indian Scout Std w/ABS (sold)
2009 Honda VTX1300R "Me Brudder's" (sold)
1984 Honda Interstate "84' 2outa4." Gone
1982 Honda GL1100 "After thought." Gone
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