Front Brake Switch Repair

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leonardhcross
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Front Brake Switch Repair

#1

Post by leonardhcross »

Hello friends. I am searching for a "how to" on repairing the front brake switch on my 76 GL1000. It seems to me that I saw one last fall showing how to disassemble the unit and free up the plunger. Brake light works with rear pedal but not front lever.
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gltriker
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#2

Post by gltriker »

No repair. Just replace the hydraulic pressure switch.
Make sure both wire connectors are plugged onto the switch.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
leonardhcross
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#3

Post by leonardhcross »

Cliff. I have purchased a replacement switch. When I remove the old switch, will I get a brake fluid leak? Will I need to re-bleed the front brakes?
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gltriker
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#4

Post by gltriker »

Hi Len.
Yes, when you remove the old switch assembly, brake fluid will be in the manifold ready to leak out. Protect all the surfaces brake fluid will possibly be spilling on to.
Fellows more familiar with their approach to purging air out of the front brake system are a better source of information for your utilization.

The last time I purged air out of my trike's front brake system, I had completely rebuilt everything and none of it was mounted back onto their respective mounting points at that time.

The master cylinder was mounted on an old handlebar, and both calipers and the manifold were elevated higher than the master cylinder when purging air.

Although awkward at the time, it purged quickly and completely and kept brake fluid away from the trike.
Then I mounted the completely purged front brake system back to where the components belonged.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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gltriker
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#5

Post by gltriker »

Len!
So I was thinking about this question again this morning. Considering you are not going to ride your motorcycle any time soon,
I would think you could turn the handlebar all the way to the right, change the switch quickly without losing more than a few drops of brake fluid.

Then turn the handlebar all the way to the left and just leave it there.

Eventually , whatever little bit of air that had entered the manifold during the switch change out would then slowly work it's way up to the master cylinder and float up into the brake fluid reservoir.

Again, there are fellows who may not agree this is feasible. But, it seems to me I've read this same approach to patiently burp a stubborn air bubble before. ;)
Last edited by gltriker on Thu Apr 01, 2021 12:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
redglbx
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#6

Post by redglbx »

Cliff, I don’t agree but sometimes you do get lucky,,,worst thing that can happen is you have to bleed the brakes,, right ?

Len, make sure that when you do this you use the new copper sealing washers for the pressure switch, I didn’t initially on my 76 and got to do it all again. Good luck!
Red 1976 oe owner
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
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gltriker
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Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#7

Post by gltriker »

redglbx wrote: Wed Mar 31, 2021 11:05 am

Len, make sure that when you do this you use the new copper sealing washers for the pressure switch, I didn’t initially on my 76 and got to do it all again. Good luck!
Thanks for that information , redglbx. There is always something to be learned! tumb2
Anticipating Len may inquire, too, Is that copper sealing washer a part that generally can be obtained at an automotive parts store?
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
redglbx
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Posts: 1116
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:39 am
Location: NW Indiana,

Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#8

Post by redglbx »

Cliff, generally they come with the new switch but not always but as you noted most auto parts stores do offer them these days, just match the old to the new.

I’ll add that some have also boiled them in water and successfully reconditioned them to a usable condition.
Red 1976 oe owner
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
leonardhcross
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Posts: 164
Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:39 pm
Location: Sylvan Beach, NY

Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#9

Post by leonardhcross »

redglbx and Cliff....thanks for all the advice. I will try Cliff's suggestion. If there is any sponginess, I'll re-bleed the system. I am interested in trying the "reverse bleed" by using a syringe to push the fluid up to the master cylinder. Also, it occurs to me that the new switch will have air inside it and I wonder how difficult it will be to get fluid into it. Do You think that I should first "prime" the switch?
leonardhcross
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Posts: 164
Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:39 pm
Location: Sylvan Beach, NY

Re: Front Brake Switch Repair

#10

Post by leonardhcross »

Just a final follow up on this thread. I installed the new switch and used Cliff's suggestion. Unfortunately, when I pressurized the lines, the new switch was defective and brake fluid oozed out between the plastic and the metal housing, (not from the threads). As I squeezed, I checked the brake light and it also failed to light. I did head out for a ride, being sure to always include my rear brake when I stopped so that I always had brake lights. The good news is that Cliff's suggestion of cranking the handlebars fully when changing out the switch worked perfectly. I lost a drop of fluid and still retained full brake pressure. No sponginess. I have since installed another switch and all is well.
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