No start from button

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Steve81GL1100
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No start from button

#1

Post by Steve81GL1100 »

Several times over the last few weeks my GL1100 has failed to start off the button. No click, nothing..... The headlight turns off as I push the button, so that much is working.
Today it failed 3 times -- this morning before work, at work at the end of the day, and again a while later after a brief stop. At this time the button does nothing other than turn the headlight off.
Thinking it might be a battery issue, I took it off the bike this morning and tested it after I got to work (Advance Auto) on our brand-new, fancy schmancy tester/charger. Battery tests fine at 440 CCA...
Cleaned the cable ends, reconnected battery. That is not the problem.
SO....
After work no action from the button even after hosing electronic contact cleaner into the drain hole and around the button, so being tired of push-starting it I started it with a skinny screwdriver across the contacts on the solenoid, and again after the stop on the way home.
After I got home, I disconnected the battery, cleaned all the cable ends at the solenoid, and put it all back together making sure all is tight. Still no start off the button. But it starts beautifully shorting across the solenoid. Not ideal though....
Right now I'm down to: A) failing or fouled-up button; B) something funky in the wiring between button and solenoid; or C) failing solenoid.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Steve
Steve
1981 GL 1100 Standard, 81 Interstate bags, 84 GL1200 pegs, sometime National Cycle PlexiStar windshield
1996 BMW R1100R
2007 Piaggio X9 Evo500, wife's ride so she can keep up with the GL
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Re: No start from button

#2

Post by Track T 2411 »

I vote 'c'... I'm not sure how but you could probably figure out how to test it by temporarily bypassing the button.
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redglbx
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Re: No start from button

#3

Post by redglbx »

It’s the button, pull on it and wiggle it, do this a couple of times and then try pressing it , it’s the button !
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Re: No start from button

#4

Post by pidjones »

The solenoids are canned with the closed end down, plenty of places for water to enter the top.
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Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
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Re: No start from button

#5

Post by digger »

You need to check for voltage coming from the start button, check it right on the solenoid when trying to start, my 2 cents, it is the contacts in the switch, could be poor connection in the wiring, don’t just throw a solenoid on it, a little troubleshooting will show you where the problem is.
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redglbx
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Re: No start from button

#6

Post by redglbx »

It’s an 1100 so the wiring is external, get your VOM/test light out and verify the switch operation and if it checks bad, it’s relatively easy to replace vs the one’s routed through the bars. It’s the switch !

Have you by chance upgraded the headlight to a higher output light by chance, that’s a sure button killer on the early wings that came with the pathetic sealed beam oe, I replaced mine with a great e2 lense and reflector setup that used a 80/130 watt bulb, 4 switch’s later I put everything on relays to take the load off of the button, I also relayed several other things like the horn because with full battery voltage it works much better, plus I haven’t replaced a switch in a very long time.

The Honda “start” switch’s all have everything routed through them including the “modern” bikes, I run relays at least on the headlights on all of them to reduce the load on the “button” contacts.
Last edited by redglbx on Fri Nov 25, 2022 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
Red 1976 oe owner
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
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Re: No start from button

#7

Post by Fred Camper »

The starter button is know to get dirty and become intermediate or less.
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Steve81GL1100
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Re: No start from button FIXED

#8

Post by Steve81GL1100 »

Just to follow up on this....
I ordered a $12 solenoid from Amazon. Yesterday I got out the multimeter and tested the button function at the 4 wires on the solenoid end of the harness -- perfect. I decided to open up the button assembly and clean it up a little anyway, but it was really pretty clean.
Next I tested the solenoid. No voltage drop, no click, dead. Fusable link is fine, by the way.
Installed the new solenoid, and all is perfect.
Note, if anyone does this. The new solenoids incorporate a 30A blade-type fuse which may interfere with the white plug from the button. I had to trim my plug a tiny bit. Also, and more important, the new solenoid is reverse polarity. The battery side is on the opposite side of the solenoid (and labelled B on the solenoid) so once wired and installed the harness from the button will sit on the back side (rear of bike) instead of between the solenoid and the battery. No fit issue, just different.
Thanks
-Steve-
Steve
1981 GL 1100 Standard, 81 Interstate bags, 84 GL1200 pegs, sometime National Cycle PlexiStar windshield
1996 BMW R1100R
2007 Piaggio X9 Evo500, wife's ride so she can keep up with the GL
1980 Vespa P200 (also wife's), restored, with custom paint, custom trim
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Re: No start from button

#9

Post by pidjones »

There really is no polarity to the M and B connections - it's just how they mark them. The solenoids are all open and can collect water on top, which gets inside and corrodes the guts of them.
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
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Re: No start from button FIXED

#10

Post by gltriker »

Steve81GL1100 wrote: Mon Jun 07, 2021 10:19 am Just to follow up on this....
I ordered a $12 solenoid from Amazon. Yesterday I got out the multimeter and tested the button function at the 4 wires on the solenoid end of the harness -- perfect. I decided to open up the button assembly and clean it up a little anyway, but it was really pretty clean.
Next I tested the solenoid. No voltage drop, no click, dead. Fusable link is fine, by the way.
Installed the new solenoid, and all is perfect.
Note, if anyone does this. The new solenoids incorporate a 30A blade-type fuse which may interfere with the white plug from the button. I had to trim my plug a tiny bit. Also, and more important, the new solenoid is reverse polarity. The battery side is on the opposite side of the solenoid (and labelled B on the solenoid) so once wired and installed the harness from the button will sit on the back side (rear of bike) instead of between the solenoid and the battery. No fit issue, just different.
Thanks
-Steve-
I haven't had any starting issues with my trike's engine that would necessitate replacement of that magnetic solenoid switch.
But, I've read more than several warnings about a 'new' solenoid switch unexpectedly sticking closed internal circuit, ruining the continuously running starter motor and the battery. Just saying.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Re: No start from button

#11

Post by desertrefugee »

If you're going to put a new solenoid in it, I would think long and hard about leaving one of those cheap eBay solenoids in there permanently. They fail and starters get burned up because of it. If I were you, I would find an oem solenoid or one very similar rather than those cheap, low quality examples found all over eBay.

EDIT: Just noticed that GLTriker cautioned you for the same reasons above. Those things are nothing but trouble. If you leave it in there, it will fail and you will not be happy. Failure mode is just as described, the starter will stick on and spin until your power wires to it are red hot and the starter is smoking.
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Re: No start from button

#12

Post by Shadowjack »

How about one of these? I SUPPOSE it worked. :-D
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Re: No start from button

#13

Post by pidjones »

I've had the same problem with OEM solenoids that I had with the el-cheapos. The units are not sealed on top, yet mounted normally collect water in the closed-bottom cans. This permits corrosion over time (accelerated by the number of times it was wet down) that eventually binds the internals. I'm working on either sealing my new one, or at a minimum mounting it inverted. Pull old failed ones apart, and you will find similar quality materials and design. I have seen a few listed that appear to have covers. Perhaps a marine-rated component would be more appropriate?
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
redglbx
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Re: No start from button

#14

Post by redglbx »

pidjones wrote: Tue Jun 08, 2021 8:33 am I've had the same problem with OEM solenoids that I had with the el-cheapos. The units are not sealed on top, yet mounted normally collect water in the closed-bottom cans. This permits corrosion over time (accelerated by the number of times it was wet down) that eventually binds the internals. I'm working on either sealing my new one, or at a minimum mounting it inverted. Pull old failed ones apart, and you will find similar quality materials and design. I have seen a few listed that appear to have covers. Perhaps a marine-rated component would be more appropriate?
Ya learn something new everyday ! Never thought about that ! Might have to take a look and see if I can maybe fashion some kind of flap, maybe tie wrap a thin piece of rubber over the top to help keep it dry.

Honda put the plastic boot on them oe but it wouldn’t do much to keep things dry, it can be done better.
Red 1976 oe owner
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
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Re: No start from button

#15

Post by ritalz »

I've been using solenoids from lawn equipment for years. The design is slightly different and slightly larger. I also make a small boot to protect it from moisture and isolate the connections. This option is not good for those who are doing 'completely stock' restorations but it has worked for me for many years.
Al

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