No Spark 75 GL1000

[Cakey]

Hi guys,

The bike had been running fine and I ran it dry last time I stopped it because I knew I would be at least 6 weeks to do the brakes. I finished the brakes today and went to give it a run and could not get it to fire. Turning over fine, battery new and strong. Kill switch not on, petrol full and fine. I took a plug out and held it against the head while turning over and no spark. Any ideas or easy thing to check before pulling down. It has the Dyna S (from memory) electronic ignition which has never missed a beat.

[gltriker]

Off/Run/Off right handlebar switch is in the Run position?

[Cakey]

Off/Run/Off switch is in the Run position?

Yep, first thing I checked

[gltriker]

Red positive wire to the DynaS has adequate battery voltage ? Fused connection.

Check the fuses in the fuse box, too.

[Cakey]

Red positive wire to the DynaS has adequate battery voltage ? Fused connection.

I can check that out, but not tonight as daylight is getting away from me. Thanks.

[Cakey]

Red positive wire to the DynaS has adequate battery voltage ? Fused connection.

Check the fuses in the fuse box, too.

I did get a chance to check.

Red wire was 11.86 volt and the battery was 12.18 volt
Fuses all tested out fine

[gltriker]

I looked at your topics history and found this one from 2013 about another No Spark situation.

viewtopic.php?t=47053

This old discussion may be helpful again?

Best of luck.

[Cakey]

I looked at your topics history and found this one from 2013 about another No Spark situation.

viewtopic.php?t=47053

This old discussion may be helpful again?

Best of luck.

Thanks gltriker. That’s an old post. Nothing I could see there that would help me however. I will look up how to test the diodes and then test those.

[Whiskerfish]

I would check power at the ballast resister if you have one.

[Cakey]

Thanks gltriker. That’s an old post. Nothing I could see there that would help me however. I will look up how to test the diodes and then test those.
[/quote]

Well this is one for the brains trust.I checked the diodes for continuity. The one on the right with green and red wire had continuity, and the one on the left with yellow and red had no continuity. I thought the yellow and red wire was ignition and thought I hit the jackpot.

When I just used the good diode in the yellow and red slot or swapped them over I had no ignition at all. But when I put them both back in it turns over and no spark. Shouldn’t it turn over with one diode in the ignition diode, or does it need two good diodes to turn over and have ignition?

Any advice would be heaps appreciated. Also are the after market diodes from China on eBay any good, or do you need second hand originals? I bought my last one from Wingovation in England 8 years ago.

[Whiskerfish]

Before the coffee has sunk in but IIRC if it cranks then the diodes are out of the picture for spark.

[Cakey]

Before the coffee has sunk in but IIRC if it cranks then the diodes are out of the picture for spark.

Sorry Whiskerfish, I don’t get it?

[Whiskerfish]

I have not looked in a while but I do not recall the Ignition circuit going through the Diodes? The Starter circuit yes for the safety interlocks.

You have a dyna right? So first check power for the dyna. On the 75's most people used those blue scotch locks to tap power from the turn signal wire under the left side shelter. Once you verify you have power for the dyna then verify power for the coils. I would do that at the Ballast resister.

Ignition circuit power comes out of the Key switch then to the Kill switch and start button but I do not think it goes through the diodes????

[Cakey]

I have not looked in a while but I do not recall the Ignition circuit going through the Diodes? The Starter circuit yes for the safety interlocks.

You have a dyna right? So first check power for the dyna. On the 75's most people used those blue scotch locks to tap power from the turn signal wire under the left side shelter. Once you verify you have power for the dyna then verify power for the coils. I would do that at the Ballast resister.

Ignition circuit power comes out of the Key switch then to the Kill switch and start button but I do not think it goes through the diodes????

Thanks Whiskerfish. Dyna has power at the red wire. I have ordered another diode today in Australia, from a motorcycle wreckers who had one on a Honda XL175 (same diode). Is there a reference somewhere on how to test the ballast resistor on the GL1000? New to me.

[Cakey]

[/quote]

Thanks Whiskerfish. Dyna has power at the red wire. I have ordered another diode today in Australia, from a motorcycle wreckers who had one on a Honda XL175 (same diode). Is there a reference somewhere on how to test the ballast resistor on the GL1000? New to me.
[/quote]

Forget that question. I just found the testing procedure on Randakks site.