NGWClub®, Inc.

Hey all! Looks like I'll be doing a transmission cover swap due to a stripped oil drain. Before I go and strip all those ancient, rust welded on, JIS screw heads, I wanted to see if any of you have an best practices or advice? They are soaking in PB blaster at the moment. One of the biggest issues I see is that I can't square up to the run of top ones due to them being pretty much in line with the frame...
Anyway, hoping to not have to drop motor from frame! Hahah!

Thanks
Pat

I use an impact tool with a #3 bit. Make sure the bit is in good condition. Use a wobble extension on the ones where the frame slightly gets in the way. If you don't have an impact tool, at least use a hammer and a screwdriver and smack the screw a couple of times. This will make it easier to turn.

I don't know which number JIS screwdriver bit is appropriate for these particular screws. cfairweather indicates #3.

Although I haven't purchased an ' Impacta ' version of a Vessel JIS screwdriver, or a comparable unit to recommend from personal disassembly experience, this one might be worth taking a look at.

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3 ... TTSE&psc=1

It is always wise to use JIS screwdrivers on these screws. Make sure your impact bit fits perfectly as that is the important part of removing these specific screws. If you attempt to simply unscrew these without hitting them with a hammer, expect them to strip out. The Vessel screwdrivers are high quality but the impact feature on some of these don't work as good as a regular impact tool. My favorite set of JIS screwdrivers are made by KTC.
Here is a link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393194375220?h ... SwEbhgT~Tn

Both KTC and Vessel are excellent brands from Japan.

JIS impact drivers would be a wise investment. Also new screws to go back on instead of the already weakened ones. Actually, if I have to go into this it will probably prompt an engine removal. I'd rather pull the engine that wrestle a broken bolt in a blind position.

Hey all! Thanks for all of the info! Looks like a set of impact JIS drivers will be the first order of business. I have impact normal Philips, they've done on easy to access and less corroded jobs. Time to step up a notch. And yeah, I'll pull the engine if I have too. Am planing on doing so over winter but would like to get a little more time on her before inclimate weather sets in!

Before I knew of or had a set of JIS screwdrivers, I had to resort to the hammer and chisel method on that cover. I was able to remove most with a regular screwdriver, but there were a few that didn't wanna come out - esp. after i stripped out the phillips head.
So I got out one of my 1/4" beater wood chisels and gave the screw head whacks in the right direction. They all came out nicely.
None broke off, you are just left with a slightly mangled chisel and screw head - one you will toss anyway. I don't remember where I got this tip but it has come in handy many times.

Robin 1731 sells a bolt kit just for this application.They work great ,just use a little anti-sieze upon reassembly.If you look below in similar topics there is a direct link.

Pony Ruiz wrote: ↑Mon Aug 23, 2021 12:37 am Before I knew of or had a set of JIS screwdrivers, I had to resort to the hammer and chisel method on that cover...

I also did this, back when I didn't even have metric tools. On a 305 Honda. But there was usually enough head left to re-use them...

skydog wrote: ↑Mon Aug 23, 2021 2:34 am Robin 1731 sells a bolt kit just for this application.They work great ,just use a little anti-sieze upon reassembly.If you look below in similar topics there is a direct link.

Yep. Use those regularly. Great improvement over the JIS Screws

I like the snap on #3 bit 3/8" drive socket. Usually when the screw comes out it's sticking on the end of the bit. I use a small battery impact with it and a wobble extension rather than a universal.
I've been corrected many times that that bit is not jis. It apparently does not know that and I don't care. I do use a good old screwdriver to give them a smack with a hammer first.

Yes in a pinch a #3 phillips works well on those. just make sure to keep plenty of pressure on it. If you can get at them a # 3 impact is almost always successful. That one up behind the frame cross member can be a bugger.

If a previous owner has buggered up the cross slots a little I like to use valve lapping compound on it, the grit gives a better bite to the bit. And I always use JIS now, I didn’t know any better 30 years ago.

Looks like a wobble extension and a #3 impact driver bit are on order as well! Great tip on the lapping compound Digger! Yeah, this and the rear brake master have caused the most corroded/stuck thus far! I'm trying to not drop the engine until later this year when I do full cleaning and resto...

In a pinch the driver in the tool kit is ... JIS.
On both of my wings I replaced the bolts with those from the GL1100 which are 8mm socket head.
You may be able to loosen all motor mount points, remove those in the front and lower the front on a jack to get better access.