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Hi there, a (very) amateur mechanic here. I still have points and this is my first time trying to set the static timing of my 1976 GL1000 and I used the instructions from this forum and the split timing technique on Randakk’s page. I wanted to ask this question about the #1/#2 cylinders before I moved on to the #3/#4 in case I needed to make adjustments.

Left Side (#1/#2 cylinders).
(1st) Test light comes on just before the F1 mark and reads 11.7 volts.
Turns off just after F2 and reads 5.9 volts.

(2nd) Test light comes on just after F1 and reads 6.0 volts.
Turns off about an inch or so after the T2 mark disappears and reads 11.5 volts.

My question is that for the (2nd), should the test light turn off so far after the T2 mark, and if so why is such a different place from when the (1st) turns off?

Also, I am assuming that the difference in voltage is normal but it would great if someone could confirm this.

Thanks again, this forum has always been able to point me in the right direction.

You are probably reading some pass through voltage from the other set of points. Try putting a small piece of cardboard (matchbook cover etc) between the contacts of the set you are not working on and repeat your checks.

Yes, put a thin insulator (paper, plastic) between the off set of points.

Thanks for the replies. I put an insulator and got the same result, so I don't think it is pass through voltage. I then tried to set the right side and came out with the following. I'll use the below "picture" to reference where the test light came on/went off.

-T1- (or 2)
-F1- (or 2)
1 (or 2)

The light comes on at the 2 and goes off just before the 1 (so it is early)
The light comes on at -F2- and off just as the -T1- disappears. (comes on at the right time but maybe goes off too late, or is this fine?)

I am thinking maybe my advancer lobe is worn irregularly and needs to be replaced?

I'll defer to the experts, but here's my advice as I know it.

If this is your first time setting the timing, the actual voltage you are reading really isn't THAT important. If you set the timing correctly and had issues later? Maybe. But for right now I wouldn't worry about.

Also, how long the light stays on after the "fire" (F) mark isn't really that important either (again, it may later, if you have issues, experts please correct me).

What's really important is that the CHANGE in timing light (on/off) needs to happen right on the F mark. It's putting it very simply, but what happens afterward doesn't really affect anything- the points have opened, your plug has sparked, combustion has happened, the engine rotates away- anything your spark plug is doing after that isn't going to accomplish anything.

Again, there are many many nuances I'm skipping over (including the "split-timing"- personally I kinda understand it, but not fully), but I'd say get the points gap set right, get the timing on the F-marks right, and see how it runs. THEN, if there's problems, you can come back to the rest later. Try not to tackle too many variables at once.

I agree that it is probably okay for it to turn off that far past the mark.

My biggest concern is why the one cylinder on the right side fires early when the other fires right on.

He might mean the left point set.

I just checked the timing yesterday on my 1000, first time in several years. It was the T2 set that had a split setting. The T1 side was accurate on both. Looked up Randakk's blog, he states that sometimes that happens. He had no explanation.

I believe it has to do with the way the end of the camshaft moves back & forth in the bearing (if there was no clearance it would be very hard to turn) as the various valve springs push against the lobes.

To clarify about the points and cylinders: The points on the left (attached to the base plate) are for cylinders #1 & #2 (the front cylinders) and the points on the right (attached to the sub plate) are for cylinders #3 & #4 (the rear cylinders).

When I did the points on my 76 gl1000 , I did manage to get both sides perfect , the problem is in the points and the backing plate , I mucked around with a baby round file and increased the range so that I did not have to split the difference . It takes a while to get your head around it , just advancing one and retarding the other , takes a little time . Cheers .