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Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:51 am
by kotkinjs1
Question for the group: I've got a naked 82 1100 I'm working on and the parts for the self cancelling turn signal have all been removed. Whatever the parts were under the neck and also something on the left inside the false tank I think. So when I use the turn signal I have to keep it pressed to the side I want the signals to stay on. Kinda annoying. Question is, can I just buy any left side handlebar control with the more modern control that remains on when you click it to one side and you can push to cancel and install it? I'd imagine all the wiring would be the same for signals, horn and high beam?

Re: Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:18 pm
by 5speed
If you want to fix the stock system check with Andy. he may have the parts you need.
He has stuff not on his site.
http://www.straightwings.com/

Re: Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:57 pm
by BlueThunder
Yes you can. It comes down to how you wire it.

Re: Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 1:15 pm
by kotkinjs1
5speed wrote: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:18 pm If you want to fix the stock system check with Andy....
http://www.straightwings.com/
Thanks 5speed but I'd rather go for the modern type. The OEM seems too problematic with cancelling late or early or not at all. I'd rather have control over it to push and cancel like on modern bikes.
BlueThunder wrote: Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:57 pm Yes you can. It comes down to how you wire it.
Thanks BlueThunder; so by wiring it I think it should be plug/wire and play? Should be a one for one wire connection?

Re: Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2021 2:09 pm
by Lucien Harpress
One for one connectivity should (in theory) be the case, but I wouldn't bet on anything not OEM to be a "match the wire color" situation. Best thing to do is grab a wiring diagram, see what the stock colors do, figure out what color does what on your new control cluster, and match it up that way.

Re: Handlebar control replacement question

Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 1:29 pm
by Sidecar Bob
The 1100's Turn Signal Cancelling Unit (under the shelter on the left) processes signals from a sensor in the odometer and a steering angle sensor to determine when to turn off the signals. When it decides the time is up it sends a pulse to a solenoid in the left hand switch assembly that releases the turn signal switch so that it can return to the centre position.

After being irritated by having to keep turning the signals back on repeatedly for a few years I decided to try unplugging the Cancelling Unit to see what happened and the signals reverted to normal manual operation.

It sounds like your PO didn't understand the mechanics of the switch and solenoid so he removed the solenoid and didn't modify the switch to stay on.

Many Honda switch assemblies of similar vintage are interchangeable with those of other models (other than cable lengths) but I believe the connector for the 1100's left assembly has a different plug because of the extra wires for the solenoid so the only plug & play fix would be to replace it with a good used (unmolested) GL1100 left switch assembly.

I think it might be possible to make your original switch stay on by using mechanical parts from another Honda left switch assembly of similar vintage or even replace the entire the entire turn signal switch (that would require a bunch of soldering).

Another option is to replace the original switch with either an entire left switch assembly from another Honda of similar vintage (to match the architecture of the right assembly) or one of the aftermarket reproductions of them. The fiddly part of that would be changing the connector to match the original. I'd start by making a sketch of which colours go where in the original connector, then remove all of the terminals (you need a thin, flat tool to release the tabs that hold the terminals into the connector housing) from both connectors and plug the terminals from the new switch assembly into the original connector.

Re changing to more modern switches: I did that on both of my bikes a few years ago. You won't find anything that is even close to plug & play so I wouldn't attempt to change to use more modern switches unless you have a very good understanding of wiring, are skilled at soldering and are capable of using an ohmmeter to figure out which terminals of the new switches correspond to which of the old ones.
And then depending on which switch assemblies you chose you might need to make educated decisions about compromises. In my case I chose switches made for Enfield bikes. The compromises I had to accept were that they don't turn the headlight off while the Start button is pressed and they don't turn the running lights off when the signals flash. My new switches have a headlight switch so I was willing to develop the habit of switching the headlights of manually and I had separate running lights (that are more than 4" from the signals) long before I replaced the switches.