Hello once again!
Rounding the corner on finishing head gaskets on my gl1100.
Getting ready to put belts back on.
So, if I understand this correctly:
I've set the pistons 90 degrees down as to not interfere with valves,
Cams and cradles in place, I should put belts back on as if it was a normal belt replacement EXCEPT for setting TDC.
I should adjust pulleys to their proper marks, install belts, then set TDC afterwards, then do my valve adjustment? Do I have this correct?
Please advise.
Anyway, thanks in advance !
Timing after head install
Moderators: CYBORG, Oldewing, robin1731, Forum Moderators
-
- Chrome Member
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2015 2:47 pm
- Location: michigan
- Lucien Harpress
- Honored Life Member
- Posts: 4077
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Michigan
Re: Timing after head install
Not quite (from what I gather). You're good up until right after bolting the cams in.
Right after the cams are on and set as close to their marks as possible (the right one will be slightly off due to valve spring pressure, this is fine), rotate the crank back the 90 degrees to TDC. You won't hit anything so long as you just rotate it back.
THEN put your belts on, being sure to rotate the right cam (against spring pressure) to line up the marks when that belt goes on. Make sure the idlers are loose, but they don't have to come off at any point. The springs will naturally set belt tension, but don't try to spin the motor over from TDC without tightening them first.
Right after the cams are on and set as close to their marks as possible (the right one will be slightly off due to valve spring pressure, this is fine), rotate the crank back the 90 degrees to TDC. You won't hit anything so long as you just rotate it back.
THEN put your belts on, being sure to rotate the right cam (against spring pressure) to line up the marks when that belt goes on. Make sure the idlers are loose, but they don't have to come off at any point. The springs will naturally set belt tension, but don't try to spin the motor over from TDC without tightening them first.
1997 Valkyrie- Light Cutomization, but Too Busy Riding
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
1969 CT90- The Most Fun You Can Have on 90ccs.
1965 CA77 Dream- Needs a Full Teardown, but Complete
All advice I give is only valid until an expert corrects me.
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
1969 CT90- The Most Fun You Can Have on 90ccs.
1965 CA77 Dream- Needs a Full Teardown, but Complete
All advice I give is only valid until an expert corrects me.
-
- Gold Member
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:39 am
- Location: NW Indiana,
Re: Timing after head install
I back the valve adjusters fully off when doing any of this like belts or head gaskets just to help minimize possible piston to valve interference. Once I’m sure all the timing marks are good then I’ll set the valve lash.
Red 1976 oe owner
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
1976 LTD restored
1980 CBX , in the que, to fix the ignorant heavy handed owner
1981 CBX
1977 CB750 K7
2014 FJR OE owner, sold
1980 GL1100
1984 GL1200 naked
1969 CL350, in the que
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 10 Replies
- 409 Views
-
Last post by CYBORG
-
- 13 Replies
- 370 Views
-
Last post by 77Gowing
-
- 11 Replies
- 329 Views
-
Last post by gltriker
-
- 16 Replies
- 658 Views
-
Last post by Barney T Weasel
-
- 27 Replies
- 1184 Views
-
Last post by gltriker