1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

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chrismcc
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1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#1

Post by chrismcc »

OK, just bought 77 GL1000. Hasn't run in 5 years. Charged the battery while letting cylinders soak with some marvel oil. Engine turned ok with kickstarter and will turn when i short the starter relay, so I know the coils are ok. But there is no signal from starter button to the starter. I have never worked on wiring before, and this old girl has been hacked up a bit. I will add a few pictures and want any advice/info you all can share on getting her running. I have watched Ranndakk's videos on bringing her back to life, but I have some questions on some previous wiring mods and how to straighten them out. Looks like PO had a fairing and bags at one point and chopped up the harness to accommodate them maybe? I will post a few pics of the areas in question. Any insights or suggestions are most welcome! Thanks in advance.
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ericheath
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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#2

Post by ericheath »

Someone may help you but lots of decent info and How-To articles in Shoptalk:
page/ST

Towards, or at the bottom of the page are downloadable color coded wiring schematics which may help you. There are some electrical mods found there as well.

It appears a PO bypassed the reserve lighting system, a common mod also found on Randakk’s site.
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77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
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83 Wing, in pieces
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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#3

Post by Rat »

Welcome to the 'Wingdom.

Lots of smart folk here to help out ...

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Lucien Harpress
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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#4

Post by Lucien Harpress »

Welcome to the fun. The upside (from what I see) is that the PO was considerate enough to plug into existing connections (however messily) rather than start chopping wires. That should make things easier. The mess of connections going from the left front of the shelter into the forks looks rather good, actually.

I'm right there with you as far as wiring goes. My advice? Find a good wiring diagram in color and start tracing what all the connections and colors do. Then it's just a matter of matching things back up correctly.

If you get really involved, feel free to start a build thread!

EDIT: As a point of comparison, here's a (generally) unmolested electrical panel on a GL1000. It looks like somebody bypassed and removed your Reserve Lighting Unit- as far as I remember, if one beam of your headlight burns out, the RLU automatically kicks the other one on no matter which beam (hi/lo) you choose, while lighting up an idiot light to tell you your headlight's messed up (or something close to that). Guys around here have bypassed it before, so hopefully someone will be along with specifics. Nothing that should stop the bike from running.

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1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
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1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#5

Post by gltriker »

chrismcc wrote: Sun Sep 26, 2021 2:55 pm OK, just bought 77 GL1000. Hasn't run in 5 years. Charged the battery while letting cylinders soak with some marvel oil. Engine turned ok with kickstarter and will turn when i short the starter relay, so I know the coils are ok. But there is no signal from starter button to the starter. I have never worked on wiring before, and this old girl has been hacked up a bit. I will add a few pictures and want any advice/info you all can share on getting her running. I have watched Ranndakk's videos on bringing her back to life, but I have some questions on some previous wiring mods and how to straighten them out. Looks like PO had a fairing and bags at one point and chopped up the harness to accommodate them maybe? I will post a few pics of the areas in question. Any insights or suggestions are most welcome! Thanks in advance.IMG_2018.jpgIMG_2019.jpgIMG_2233.PNGIMG_2231.jpgIMG_2230.jpg
chrismcc
Are you speaking about the ignition coils? :-?
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#6

Post by pidjones »

One thing that might be blocking the solenoid from working from the switch is the safety circuit. You must have either neutral selected in the transmission (the neutral light will indicate that the switch is picked up) or the clutch pulled. there is a switch in the clutch perch that has two connections that must be closed for that. I often find them loose or pulled off and they can just be plugged back in and the clutch pulled or a temporary jumper installed between them.
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Re: 1st post, 1st project: 77 GL1000

#7

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The Reserve Lighting Unit is supposed to run the headlight's high beam at 1/2 power if the low beam fails (since the low is on more they generally fail first) and run the tail light's bright (brake light) filament at 1/2 power if the dim (tail light) filament fails (tail light is on more than brake so it generally fails first). BUT the RLU is known to cause more problems than it solves and even Clymer knew to recommend bypassing it at least as far back as the copy of their GL1000/1100 book I bought in '91.

The starter motor is supposed to be able to work only if the transmission is in neutral or if the transmission is in gear with the clutch disengaged but not when the transmission is in gear with the clutch engaged. Two circuits are involved in that:
1) The starter disconnect switch (in the clutch perch) interrupts the starter solenoid circuit between the solenoid and ground, preventing it from being energized unless the clutch lever is pulled.
2) The neutral switch interrupts the neutral light circuit between the light and ground.

The diode is connected between the neutral light circuit and the starter solenoid circuit so that the neutral switch bypasses the starter disconnect switch but the starter disconnect switch has no effect on the neutral light.

This drawing is for the 1100 & 1200 but your 1000's circuits are basically the same except that the rectifier and voltage regulator are separate units instead of being in one package like the later models and the main fuse is not mounted on the solenoid.
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