Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

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Prospect
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Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#1

Post by Prospect »

I'm looking through the manual and part of the maintenance is cleaning the oil screen cover. Than manual says

Remove 4 screws securing oil screen cover. Remove the engine mounting nut. Flex frame outward with large drift or pry bar just enough to remove screen. Clean screen thoroughly with solvent.

I had a quick look last week at the screen cover and it seems like those Phillips (JIS) screws are almost impossible to reach. Is that the case or is there a technique? Also, flexing the frame outward with a pry bar seems strange. The exhaust is off as I'm putting a better shape OEM one I found.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#2

Post by MikeNTexas »

Getting those screws out of the first opstacle. The front screw won’t come all the way out with flexing the frame outward some. When reinstalling it I use hex bolts instead of screws and put a shorter one in the front hole. No more flexing.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#3

Post by pidjones »

I use a plastic chain saw wedge (used to prevent pinching the blade on the saw in a kerf) to hold the out after prying with a well-padded crowbar. But first, make sure you loosen all of the bolts that keep it pinched!
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flyin900
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#4

Post by flyin900 »

MikeNTexas wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 8:47 pm The front screw won’t come all the way out with flexing the frame outward some. When reinstalling it I use hex bolts instead of screws and put a shorter one in the front hole. No more flexing.
From distant memory on that one you need to remove the front and rear engine bolts if I recall, as it allows more flex in the frame than just the front bolt. A wedge of your choice will give you the room needed and then replace with hex head bolts as noted.

If you change your oil/filter regularly and keep a close look at the old oil for particles when you do a change, it will likely be a one time job. Unless the clutch fibers are coming apart, you will find the screen is pretty clean in most cases.
I have done it once in frame and a number of times when doing a re and re on engines. I have never found any serious junk in there just a few bits. It likely depends on how the PO's did oil changes and maintenance.
Last edited by flyin900 on Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#5

Post by Prospect »

It's really strange that to remove it would require a pry bar to the frame. It's unlike Honda engineering to require such a technique but I doubt it was an oversight on their part.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#6

Post by flyin900 »

Somebody got a pink slip on that one for sure. It’s a workaround after the fact.
Would have made sense to put the removable frame section on that side to facilitate easier access to both the neutral switch and oil screen.
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1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
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1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#7

Post by Lucien Harpress »

It's one of the little quirks of the GL1000 (along with the neutral light) that shows Honda didn't quite have everything figured out yet. I can only guess those items ended up where they did due to the configuration of the engine, and when they found the frame rails landed where they did, deemed them low maintenance enough to not be worth a redesign.

Similar to the valve cover on the SOHC 750s. You need to remove the engine if you want to take the cover off, but the average owner has no reason to do so, so Honda left it.

Of course, Honda probably didn't figure people would be riding these things 40 years later.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#8

Post by rcmatt007 »

I doubt if the screen was ever cleaned on most of these bikes, and I only did my 78 (over 140K miles) because the engine was out... the only thing that really would gunk them up is a disintegrating clutch or blue RTV, or not regular oil changes
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#9

Post by Prospect »

I might just leave it alone then. The Honda manual mentions flexing the frame 2mm.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#10

Post by tlbranth »

Prospect wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 10:48 pm It's really strange that to remove it would require a pry bar to the frame. It's unlike Honda engineering to require such a technique but I doubt it was an oversight on their part.
You ain't seen nothing yet. One of the water pump cover screws is also behind the frame. Static timing on 1 & 2 is a 10 minute job. Static timing on 3 & 4 takes 3 or 4 weeks if you don't slack off. Dynamic timing requires that you have a special window and a removable eyeball that you can position over the window to try and spot the timing marks which you won't be able to see anyway. Carbs will become a career. There's more. Much more. You can read all about it in the book of Revelation.
Last edited by tlbranth on Mon Nov 08, 2021 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#11

Post by gltriker »

:lol: :oldies PERFECT! tumb2
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#12

Post by Lucien Harpress »

I would laugh except you're not wrong.
1997 Valkyrie- Light Cutomization, but Too Busy Riding
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#13

Post by BlueThunder »

Prospect wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 10:48 pm It's really strange that to remove it would require a pry bar to the frame. It's unlike Honda engineering to require such a technique but I doubt it was an oversight on their part.
That's what happens when car guys design a motorcycle motor!
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#14

Post by Sidecar Bob »

flyin900 wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 11:30 pm Would have made sense to put the removable frame section on that side to facilitate easier access to both the neutral switch and oil screen.
I think it would have been better for the sidestand to be attached to the non-removable side of the frame too.

Rodger: RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing and can refer to any number of rubberlike materials that don't require heat to cure. I assume that you are probably referring to silicone sealant; Why do you think that blue silicone sealant is more likely to cause problems than any other colour?

Re setting the timing: IIRC, it always took me more time to go and get new points than it did to install and adjust them. The hardest part of installing the new ones was always running the wire and setting the points took perhaps 10 minutes for the ones fixed to the plate and 15 minutes for the adjustable ones. Of course, that assumes that you replaced the condensers at the same time because bad condensers can make as much difference as mis-adjusted points.

FWIW, it should take about as long to set the timing on a Dyna S as it does to set the timing on points and I believe that took me less than 20 minutes when I moved my Dyna to my "new" engine.

These problems aren't from "car guys" designing the engine but from not enough communication between the team designing the engine and the team designing the frame and are pretty common in a lot of models from a number of manufacturers.

What's nest, someone complaining that you have to remove the engine to replace the alternator stator?
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Lucien Harpress
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Re: Oil Screen Cover Removal GL1000

#15

Post by Lucien Harpress »

Sidecar Bob wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 11:49 am What's nest, someone complaining that you have to remove the engine to replace the alternator stator?
They finally figured THAT one out by the time the Valkyrie rolled around. (And perhaps the GL1500. I have no clue about the frame geometry on that one.)
1997 Valkyrie- Light Cutomization, but Too Busy Riding
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
1969 CT90- The Most Fun You Can Have on 90ccs.
1965 CA77 Dream- Needs a Full Teardown, but Complete

All advice I give is only valid until an expert corrects me.
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