Float valve differences?

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wannabridin
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Float valve differences?

#1

Post by wannabridin »

I'm replacing the float valves and seats on my '77 and noticed the old valves were different than the OEM Honda ones. Do the old ones on the left appear factory as well as the right?

Thanks!
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pidjones
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Re: Float valve differences?

#2

Post by pidjones »

Check the Randakk site. He does a pretty thorough analysis of them.
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flyin900
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Re: Float valve differences?

#3

Post by flyin900 »

The old left one is possibly a aftermarket unit, as they usually have a slightly taller pin that requires a resetting of the float level. You will need to check and probably reset your float height with those new OEM ones, or you will have issues if you don’t.
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robin1731
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Re: Float valve differences?

#4

Post by robin1731 »

Dead giveaway is the way the metal cross piece is more of an X than straight across above the pin. The left one is aftermarket. I just replaced a full set yesterday on a rebuild.

Also on the OEM seat there is the Keihin K on the side of the body.
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wannabridin
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Re: Float valve differences?

#5

Post by wannabridin »

Bike had factory seats, with a 1.0 and a K on them.

I lost my float height gauge somehow, so I had to order another one. Currently waiting on that so I can get it set again.

What method do you use Robin? Randakk says to stand em up, Nixon says to let them hang as if they were installed in the bike...
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Float valve differences?

#6

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Here is a pic taken by Mike Nixon and posted by Randakk in his blog entry about aftermarket float valves. When Randakk and Mike both tell you that aftermarket metal parts in carbs are a bad idea you had better believe they are
https://www.randakksblog.com/more-probl ... at-valves/
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wannabridin
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Re: Float valve differences?

#7

Post by wannabridin »

Thanks for the clarification everyone!
redglbx
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Re: Float valve differences?

#8

Post by redglbx »

One other thing to keep in mind about the “cheap” aftermarket valves is while I haven’t personally see any as bad as the one above from Mike I have seen a few with the chrome peeling same as the one in the picture. And a couple of other things I’ve found is the angle on the tip to be way off and not seal, same with the seats. Also found the pins on some to be sticky/notchy and cause sealing issues.

The problem with the oe parts is that they are quite expensive and a lot that claim to be oe and charge as oe come in a K & L bag, by the way I haven't had any problem with the K+L’s. I went through all of this with my 81 where I gotta very frustrating lesson in Honda carbs.

Absolutely only use the Randakk carb kits, the Viton rubber will resist the alcohol in most of today’s gas. Also on my 81 it had a slight gas leak for years that got worse with time and this last carb redo had me taking the rack in & out 6-7 times. What I finally found is that one of the OE bowl drain screws had a small Knick on the sealing taper, replaced it with one I had laying around and no more leak, bike runs great.

Also make sure the idle circuit is clean ! Remove the idle mixture screw and then sand the straw for the Gumout carb cleaner to a taper and put the taper in the idle jet and when you spray it,it should come out of the idle mixture screw hole easily, if it doesn’t it’s not open. Also protect your face for spray back from the carb cleaner, gumout in the eyes is not pleasant !
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