Cooling and charging issues
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Cooling and charging issues
Hello--
I'm pretty sure this has been discussed multiples times across different threads, but I just want a sanity check since I am new to goldwings.
Picked up a pair of titled '78 gl1000's for $500. Been working on the burgandy one as its the lower mileage of the two, and is visually in better shape. However, after tearing into it, the bike basically needed one of everything.
After taking it on its maiden voyage, two issues have cropped up.
1: After ~10 minutes of riding, the temp will creep up to the blank square just behind the red line. I rode it like this for about 12 miles as it would fluctuate between the high up in the white area and just below the blank square. My luck ran out shortly after when coolant started overflowing onto the engine and hitting the exhaust (big surprise). The system was bled of air, the fan is working as I can feel air getting pulled through the radiator, and the top of the radiator was scalding hot. I am going to presume that my water pump is shot and needs to be replaced?
2: Also while I was riding back from getting coffee, I noticed my battery gauge was dropping. With a semi-fresh battery, the gauge only read~ 11 volts, though a DMM said it was ~12.5v (yes, that is rather low.) With the bike idling(and before departing on my short trip), it said 12.5, and revving the motor brought it to 12.6v. Of all the goldwings that have had charging issues, what is usually the #1 cause? I know I need to check for the ~50v ac from each leg on the stator, though thats where my knowledge on what to check stops.
I'm pretty sure this has been discussed multiples times across different threads, but I just want a sanity check since I am new to goldwings.
Picked up a pair of titled '78 gl1000's for $500. Been working on the burgandy one as its the lower mileage of the two, and is visually in better shape. However, after tearing into it, the bike basically needed one of everything.
After taking it on its maiden voyage, two issues have cropped up.
1: After ~10 minutes of riding, the temp will creep up to the blank square just behind the red line. I rode it like this for about 12 miles as it would fluctuate between the high up in the white area and just below the blank square. My luck ran out shortly after when coolant started overflowing onto the engine and hitting the exhaust (big surprise). The system was bled of air, the fan is working as I can feel air getting pulled through the radiator, and the top of the radiator was scalding hot. I am going to presume that my water pump is shot and needs to be replaced?
2: Also while I was riding back from getting coffee, I noticed my battery gauge was dropping. With a semi-fresh battery, the gauge only read~ 11 volts, though a DMM said it was ~12.5v (yes, that is rather low.) With the bike idling(and before departing on my short trip), it said 12.5, and revving the motor brought it to 12.6v. Of all the goldwings that have had charging issues, what is usually the #1 cause? I know I need to check for the ~50v ac from each leg on the stator, though thats where my knowledge on what to check stops.
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Welcome to the 'Wingdom.
Smarter folks than I will be along shortly to help out
Gord
Smarter folks than I will be along shortly to help out
Gord
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My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
- Old Fogey
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
First check for the apparent overheating would be to get the radiator flushed out, before ripping into the engine.
My 76 didn't have overheating, but the rad spring a leak. The shop that fixed it said the rad was 2/3ds blocked up.
I would believe your DMM rather tham a 40 year old gauge running on current through 40 year old connections. You're starting in the right place though to check it out. Off hand I can't remember the specifics of the test , sorry.
If you find you DO need to work on the water pump, they are usually (not always) rebuildable.
https://www.wingovations.com/waterpumprebuildkit
My 76 didn't have overheating, but the rad spring a leak. The shop that fixed it said the rad was 2/3ds blocked up.
I would believe your DMM rather tham a 40 year old gauge running on current through 40 year old connections. You're starting in the right place though to check it out. Off hand I can't remember the specifics of the test , sorry.
If you find you DO need to work on the water pump, they are usually (not always) rebuildable.
https://www.wingovations.com/waterpumprebuildkit
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
The 7V regulator is often an issue on these older girls so I wonder if that impacts the coolant gauge and voltmeter. My GL1000s are earlier (1977 and 1976) and neither have a voltage gauge so not sure but looking at the 7V regulator may be important but your ride was short and certainly your coolant gauge was not as accurate as it should have been. Go for the easy stuff first. If the water pump is in fact pumping water, then the radiator is the next thing to check.
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1977 GL1000 BADDOG (April 2012 BOTM)
1976 LTD - '993 LTD...and so it begins'
You should remember that it's peace of mind you're after and not just fixing the machine. R.Pirsig
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Fred Camper wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 1:47 pm The 7V regulator is often an issue on these older girls so I wonder if that impacts the coolant gauge and voltmeter. My GL1000s are earlier (1977 and 1976) and neither have a voltage gauge so not sure but looking at the 7V regulator may be important but your ride was short and certainly your coolant gauge was not as accurate as it should have been. Go for the easy stuff first. If the water pump is in fact pumping water, then the radiator is the next thing to check.
I am to believe the 7v regulator is fine as the bike did overheat with the needle just under the red, and when I went to restart it once it cooled down, the battery did seem weak.Old Fogey wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 12:42 pm First check for the apparent overheating would be to get the radiator flushed out, before ripping into the engine.
My 76 didn't have overheating, but the rad spring a leak. The shop that fixed it said the rad was 2/3ds blocked up.
I would believe your DMM rather tham a 40 year old gauge running on current through 40 year old connections. You're starting in the right place though to check it out. Off hand I can't remember the specifics of the test , sorry.
If you find you DO need to work on the water pump, they are usually (not always) rebuildable.
https://www.wingovations.com/waterpumprebuildkit
As for the charging, from what I've read and know, it should be outputting ~14v, not 12.6v. I am not sure what to check first as I've read that basically everything can fail, including the r/r, stator, stator plug, and the dog bone fuse
I am going to replace the radiator as the filler neck is damaged--the lip that the cap hooks onto, about 80% of that lip on one side is busted off. It could probably be fixed but I'd rather just replace the whole thing.
I'm not going to rebuild the waterpump as (imo) bakelite is probably the worst material to make a part needed for longevity out of. I want the steel one in the engine if I am going to ride it for any long distance.
- pidjones
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
7 volt regulator has nothing to do with either problem. Charging is most often hindered by the connector on the "three yellow wires" leading to the regulator. You will probably find ample evidence of overheating on the three wire connector. Many posts on here about fixing it.
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Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
- dontwantapickle
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
If your radiator cap ain't sealing, that's more than likely the cause of your overheating.Koboldwrangler wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 2:00 pm I am going to replace the radiator as the filler neck is damaged--the lip that the cap hooks onto, about 80% of that lip on one side is busted off.
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Oh it's definitely sealed despite the lip partly missing. Like I said, I'm going to replace the radiator.dontwantapickle wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 8:46 pmIf your radiator cap ain't sealing, that's more than likely the cause of your overheating.Koboldwrangler wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 2:00 pm I am going to replace the radiator as the filler neck is damaged--the lip that the cap hooks onto, about 80% of that lip on one side is busted off.
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Question--
If you had to replace your radiator, would you get another used one like this such as this one that has been "cleaned and tested"https://www.ebay.com/itm/363750367999?m ... olid=10050
Or would get an aluminum one from china like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115246555598?m ... olid=10050
If you had to replace your radiator, would you get another used one like this such as this one that has been "cleaned and tested"https://www.ebay.com/itm/363750367999?m ... olid=10050
Or would get an aluminum one from china like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115246555598?m ... olid=10050
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Not too long ago 5speed put one of those aluminum ones in and did a fairly extensive review. There were some fitment issues as I recall. Not sure it is exactly the same one? Here is the link https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 72#p699883
Jeez looks like it was 5 years ago now!!
Jeez looks like it was 5 years ago now!!
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and a whole garage full of possibilities!!
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Hmm... I may try that $45 radiator first. hard to pass on that price, especially since it has free shipping!Whiskerfish wrote: ↑Tue Apr 05, 2022 2:45 pm Not too long ago 5speed put one of those aluminum ones in and did a fairly extensive review. There were some fitment issues as I recall. Not sure it is exactly the same one? Here is the link https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 72#p699883
Jeez looks like it was 5 years ago now!!
the one question i still need answered is, should i replace my water pump, whether it be because its bad, or just for preventative maintenance?
- Old Fogey
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
No, unless you like extra work and expense for no reason. You should check it though, while you have the rad off. Any sideways movement means new or a rebuild.Koboldwrangler wrote: ↑Tue Apr 05, 2022 3:07 pm the one question i still need answered is, should i replace my water pump, whether it be because its bad, or just for preventative maintenance?
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I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
So, update on the charging system. Just wanted to do a sanity check before I order parts.
Stator voltage: 2 of the legs put out 50v, where the third is outputting 25v. Checking each leg to ground nets .5 ohm each. I assume the stator is roasted?
Rectifier: Doing the resistance check shows each diode at 125k ohm in forward bias, and open in reverse. I assume the rectifier pack is also roasted?
Stator voltage: 2 of the legs put out 50v, where the third is outputting 25v. Checking each leg to ground nets .5 ohm each. I assume the stator is roasted?
Rectifier: Doing the resistance check shows each diode at 125k ohm in forward bias, and open in reverse. I assume the rectifier pack is also roasted?
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Rectifier is probably good, the stater not so much. Rectifier has to have proper input in order to work properly and your measurements for the rectifier are normal for forward and reverse. Diodes are like check valves. They allow flow in one direction and none in the other direction. A failed reading would be a dead short in either direction or most likely an open in both directions.
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Re: Cooling and charging issues
Two bikes, two rectifiers. Swap them and see what your symptoms are then.
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