GL1000 - lift point

[kenai]

Hi All - new 77 the brakes are so locked up I can't rock it enough to put it up on the center stand. Can I safely lift from the bottom of engine? Will a floor jack under the engine be okay? thxs kenai

[CYBORG]

I've done it many times. But if the jack is not EXACTLY centered on the engine, bike is very unstable. I would us a bike lift that slides under the engine. Hate the risk the bike falling.

[ritalz]

If you have to use a jack, place a piece of wood between the jack and the engine. It will help stabilize the lift as well as protect the underside of the bike. Just lift high enough to get the stand down. Safety first.

[pidjones]

Even with a lift, a ratchet strap holding the bike to the lift is good. You might start handling it pretty rough getting the brake off. Really, loosening a banjo bolt should relieve any pressure on the line (even with the common rusted - bleeder). Removing the clip and pins should allow prying the rear pads out. Removing the front (17mm?) bolts should allow the front calipers to rotate out. Doing all of this with the manual should avoid expensive damage.

[Sidecar Bob]

I don't think there are any 17 mm bolts on any 4 cylinder 'Wing. A few 10mm bolts with 17mm heads yes, but thinking of bolts by the head size instead of the shank size can lead to damage when you set your torque wrench to the value recommended for a much larger bolt.

Re jacking, I routinely lift mine with a jack under the engine but with the sidecar I know it can't fall over. In your case, if you can't release the brakes you could lift it with a jack under the engine to get the stand down but I'd recommend having an assistant to hold it from falling over or at least tying the handlebars to something overhead to keep it from falling.

[pidjones]

Thinking about it, might be 19mm. Yes, head size. It would be rather hard to identify the shank size of installed bolts. But Bob may have x-ray vision.

[Sidecar Bob]

I've just read about too many broken bolts when people used the wrong torque setting. Calling bolts by the head size is just lazy thinking but if you must at least say "17mm wrench" instead of "17mm bolt".

[CYBORG]

I've just read about too many broken bolts when people used the wrong torque setting. Calling bolts by the head size is just lazy thinking but if you must at least say "17mm wrench" instead of "17mm bolt".

I agree. Head size is not bolt size. A lot of people refer to the "Wrench" size, as the bolt size. Can cause a lot of problems when discussing procedures among members

[redglbx]

I have a scissor type jack that I bought from eBay that has 2 adjustable V type posts that pick the bike up by the frame, it was under $35 as I recall, very stabile & works great ! I just used it a few months ago to replace the centerstand on my 78. Works good & way cheaper than replacing all the broken pieces if your bike falls off the floor jack, which is doable but I’d have at least 2 helpers to steady things until you get it on the centerstand.

Personally I’d just remove the calipers & then put it up on the center stand, this is one of those “pita” situations. But safer imho.

[CYBORG]

In my opinion, if you are going to work on these bikes, get the right tools, and equipment. Makes it more fun, safer, and the job goes faster. A proper jack for lifting bikes is a must. And good quality one is a must

[redglbx]

This ^^^^

[kenai]

Used a floor jack and flat piece of wood ; the jack with a long handle that you twist to engage and release. Sit on bike, pull handle. Up goes bike; down goes center stand. Slow and controlled. Of course... pick the weight-center of bike.

[low-side]

A few taps from a rubber mallet will usually push the caliper pistons in far enough to free the brakes and get it on the center stand. Or disassemble the braking system enough for them to disengage. I'd rather do either of those and get it on the center stand than use a floor jack and a 2x4.