Electronic Ignition Test Light ON All the Time

[Dr. Frankenstein]

The solenoid seems to be working correctly, after I tapped the ignition switch; I'm keeping an eye on that. As far as the no-spark problem, I have 5 ohms primary through the coils, but Nothing secondary on any of the spark wires.

New coils, new spark wire ends, and they are snug in their respective holes in the coils, but still no spark on any of them. Fuses are good; battery is good at 13.1 volts.

As far as chasing down wires, the only one I'm mystified by is this yellow/green striped one here - it's not in the headlight bucket, and I can't see it on any of the other connectors:
DSCN2359 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

I can see where it goes into the wiring loom here, but it doesn't come out anywhere that I can see; The only yellow and green wire in the schematic appears to go to the turn signals, and those are green with a YELLOW stripe; but it does not come off the points, where the electronic ignition goes, although according to the schematic it Does seem to come into play with the turn signal buzzer relay:
1978 GL1000 Wiring Diagram by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

There is a yellow/blue one that comes out of one of the coils and a yellow one that comes out of the coils, that my electronic ignition is plugged in to, but I think unless I can figure out why I have power going to my coils but not the spark wires, I'm pretty much stumped at this point. If my coils are getting power (5.0 ohms) though the primary, why aren't they getting power through the secondary - the connector and the spark plug boot?

[gltriker]

NO, It doesn't go to the headlight bucket.
The 'upper' end of the Yellow with blue tracer wire , will be one of the wires located in that black plastic 6 wire terminals. plug together connector near the ignition coils.

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[gltriker]

Keep an open, unfettered mind and follow the Instructions, John. Please. I worked pretty hard on this for You and Barb, too.
Like NIKE encourages in their advertising ... Just Do It Don't Fuss . note: when finished , report your findings.

OH YEAH!!! You haven't replied back whether the DS1-1 rotor is, in fact, rotating when the crankshaft is turning; Or not YES? NO?.

*the 'Red' wire provides +12volts DC to operate the internal ground path switching (on/off) circuit of each dyna type module, independently. As the magnet on the Outside Diameter of the spinning rotor passes by each module, the ground path is changed either On or Off. (An electronic version of good ole breaker points.)
was the voltmeter tested result a minimum of +12volts DC. Yes or no. Give me a number.

*test the Yellow with blue tracer primary wire that connects to one of the 2 screw terminals on the right side ignition coil (cylinders 1 and 2 )
was the voltmeter tested result approximately +12volts DC. Yes or no. Give me a number.

*test the Blue with yellow tracer primary wire that connects to one of the 2 screw terminals on the left side ignition coil (cylinders 3 and 4 )
was the voltmeter tested result approximately +12volts DC. Yes or no. Give me a number.

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[Dr. Frankenstein]

YESSS, That's MUCH better! Decent instructions for this 'electrical short-bus' kid! I will get all these answers for you tomorrow.

I appreciate the effort. As I said, I hate electricity. Most of my day is spent keeping an eye on Barb, trying to get her to use her faculties more, and her swallowing has improved a bit; and she actually uttered a sentence a few days ago that I understood clearly, which shocked the "stuff" out of me! But I'm pretty sure her riding days are over, her balance is still not good; there's no way she can ride with me like she used to. "And Yet"...I think she's making progress, but as I say, "Even a snail can cross the yard..." So I hope for the best.

Question though: if those new coils are non-polarity, does it make a difference which wire goes where in the connector...?
I diagrammed the connector when I took the old wires out and replaced the new yellow, blue and black wires in their original positions with the new spades and the ballast resistor jumper when I rebuilt the wires, but would that make a difference?

[gltriker]

Very Good News about y'all.

snip:
Question though: if those new coils are non-polarity, does it make a difference which wire goes where in the connector...?
I diagrammed the connector when I took the old wires out and replaced the new yellow, blue and black wires in their original positions with the new spades and the ballast resistor jumper when I rebuilt the wires, but would that make a difference?

I went back in other conversations about this situation, to study the 1978-79 ballast resistor jumper wire details.
(As you know, the 1975-77 primary ignition wiring is very visible and compact under the ignition coils)
Finally understood how the ballast resistor jumper wire could be located directly at the 1978-79 black, multiple wire terminal block connector.
If you followed your primary wires' original placements sketches correctly you should be good to go in that area.

I know that the testing graphics I added on to your photo might be confusing to you on the primary ignition circuits' negative side, but doing as I requested will give us some information that may be useful.
There's a Eureka moment waiting around the proverbial corner.

You've got my cell number, too