78 GL1000 gears won't engage

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redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#76

Post by redsrback6 »

TY Cliff!

Good tip Fred TY! I'll definitely keep that in mind. These washers do seem pretty stiff compared to the oil plug. Yes, pretty much mine as well. Smell was definitely a constant reminder.
redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#77

Post by redsrback6 »

Hey Guys, it has been a while since last updating this thread.

After putting the coolant system back together and before putting the carbs back in, I found out that the temperature sensor plug o-ring was leaking and probably the source of the original leak vs. the bypass collar. Looks chewed up from previous install by a local vintage mechanic. O-ring has been replaced and bike is finally back together.

Also, the fuel tank appears to be fixed for however long it lasts. The Permatex/Hylomar product is working so far. Stuff is non-setting but I did give it weeks before adding gas, while I worked on the coolant leak.

Been more than a month no leaks on either!

So... I thought I was finally done working on this motorcycle, for a while anyway. I'd ridden it several times 3-4 miles each, not far. Yesterday was still very chilly here but I went on an eight mile ride and everything was perfect! I stopped for about 15 mins, turned the bike off. When I came back out, I turned the key and found out I lost all electrical power. No neutral light, oil light, headlight, starter, horn, signals, or gauges. Nothing worked, except the stereo which is hooked to the + terminal of ACC box has power. Reminder this bike has a Vetter SS fairing.

Fearing the stator wasn't working and depleted my new AGM battery, I had my wife bring me the old battery, forgot to have her bring my volt meter. Swapped the batteries but no change. Rented a U-Haul to get back to my garage. The new battery I had in it during the ride measured 13 volts which I think is an indicator the stator was working. I've put the new battery back in. Last night I began checking over some of the obvious. The 30 amp fuse next to the battery is fine. All the fuses inside the shelter box look fine also. I do not see or smell anything burnt around the rectifier, main plug, stator plug, battery, etc. Will remove the other covers today to begin looking things over.

Bob, Cliff, PID, anyone else - my first thought now is that added resistor the PO installed next to the original resistor by the coils. Open for ideas. Could the switch assembly be bad? Looks like Honda still makes em.

Thank you guys!
redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#78

Post by redsrback6 »

Ignition switch assembly (key) I believe is what I meant to say. Under "Handlebar/Key Set" in parts diagram.
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gltriker
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#79

Post by gltriker »

I don't know anything about the key switch assembly troubleshooting. More so, repair and switch base replacement details.
There are plenty of fellows on this Forum that do, though :-D
Seems there is an important step that is required to remove the switch base and not break plastic retainer clips ?
Last edited by gltriker on Tue Mar 21, 2023 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
cfairweather
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#80

Post by cfairweather »

I have seen several ignition switches fail. You can usually determine if you have a bad one by simply turning it on/off repeatedly. If you determine you have intermittent problems, your contacts are probably just dirty. You can take it apart and clean them or buy a replacement. The 75-77 models are different than the 78-79 models, so be sure to get the right one. An aftermarket one only costs about $20.00.
redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#81

Post by redsrback6 »

Thanks for the information Cliff and Cfair!! I'll switch it back and forth to see if I can get it to work. Thankfully there's a Youtube out there for a 77 showing how to replace. I'll probably try cleaning first.

I also tried a temporary ground/neg cable just in case old was dirty but no change. I've removed all the covers and inspected all the wiring and plugs, as well as the resistor.

Will also check the switch assembly wires each side of handlebars to make sure nothing was pulled from steering.
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CYBORG
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#82

Post by CYBORG »

One thing not mentioned, and may not be a factor, is that if the front cover gasket is to thin, some non stock ones are, the trans will not shift
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#83

Post by redsrback6 »

I don't believe it!! I walked into the garage and after checking both control wires which looked fine, I began playing with the ignition and got the neutral light to flash. After a minute I realized that if I turn it to ON, then slowly turn it back half-way between ON and ACC and hold it there, I get all the power back!! So just a matter of whether switch is faulty or dirty. Hopefully cleaning will fix it.

Once again you guys are so AWESOME!!
redsrback6
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Re: 78 GL1000 gears won't engage

#84

Post by redsrback6 »

First, the guy that produced that YouTube video on the '77 has to be way more skilled than me and has a much deeper tool box! In order to get at the final 2 bolts mounting the ignition, I had to remove my fairing and loosen the old headlight bucket. I tried, everything else I did as he did. Painful but should go back much quicker with the extra room.

As it turns out, my ignition switch has already been replaced based on the key it must be an Emgo. I hope I don't regret this but I found an OEM with key on eBay in really good shape so gonna go with it.

Here are some pictures of what I took out. Yes, the area is so tight and knowing I wasn't reusing the old one I used my Dremel to cut the latch. There wasn't anything loose and no worn plastic. The Emgo switch always turned with ease. None of the metal prongs from the plug or the pins were that dirty. The little metal bits you may be looking for I believe are hidden underneath as the bottom 2 pieces don't wanna come apart. There is a slot though that I can barely see through, the copper looks shiny best I can tell. The reddish-brown stuff is grease but as you can see there is some blackish sludge buildup. Assume it is either baked grease or possible wear from the ball bearings.

Perhaps the sludge buildup or the bearings just got worn out or the plastic where bearings are mounted, causing no contact? Other than sporadic as the bearings ride over a ridge in between settings making a tighter connect.

Thanks!
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