I'm having a devil of a time separating the hard line from the rubber one. Heat, PB, repeat isn't getting me anything but a mess on the tiny 10mm nut. The other night, I was working the heat right at the junction. The rubber exploded with a pop and shot the unit across the shed. I found it under a bike, still smoking a bit. It was funny, but not really.
I like the idea of a banjo-to-banjo set up. A banjo bolt could easily work at the caliper. I don't quite understand how to pull the flare inert from the MC, which several theads discuss. I've looked at it a couple times. It would appear to involve some work that could ruin the MC if not done carefully. I don't have a boxful of spare masters, after all.
Sidecar Bob wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 1:45 pm
I converted my '79 to a stainless braided line from master cylinder to caliper some time in the early '90s and replaced the original master cylinder with one from an '81 1100 a couple of years later.
I'll keep that '81-to-'79 swap in mind. I have a rebuild kit for the '79 on its way. I have a working '82 MC on a parts bike, and I think I remember those units use a banjo bolt. It might be a little tricky to get the reservoir sorted. The '79 reservoir is on the MC; the '81 has it running to the MC from a braided line that's maybe 8" long. Given the indents in the '79 tank, it could be a bit of a challenge to tuck it all in neatly. But it's clearly been done before!
More digging in Search surfaced a range of good info, with some variety of approaches:
Goboy's efforts on his '78:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72707&p=774176&hili ... ng#p774176
Based on his report, it would seem that braided end-to-end could pose clearance challenges if one doesn't use banjos.
In 2017, Easter posted about a similar effort, but with banjos on both ends. Easter referenced a "special" banjo bolt needed to get far enough into the MC to seal it. Not quite sure what that means.
Easter wrote: ↑Tue May 30, 2017 8:43 pm
The only thing to remember if you choose to use banjo connectors is the master cylinder has an insert in the outlet hole to mate with the brass flare fitting. This must be removed (I used an extractor for broken screws) to allow the special banjo bolt to seat in far enough to prevent leaks.
Not to bury the lede, but I also found D9canada's 2013 thread, complete with photos and a suggested link for a SS line running from the caliper to the MC on a '75. He also included a recommended measurement - 18" center of banjo to 90-degree bend on MC side banjo:
viewtopic.php?p=577681#p577681
Robin1731 is also on the thread, with photos of his own approach. D9canada did NOT remove the little flare thing. Instead, a cut banjo bolt apparently seated far enough in to permit it to work.
I like D9canada's approach a lot.
Two concerns came up: hard line is a safety measure, as a flex line could meet the rear tire; thread count to seat the cut banjo to the MC might not yield a good seal.
Avatar is a summer '21 photo of the Blue Phoenix, our 1983 GL1100I rescue gone naked.
In the Stable and Ridable
1992 ST1100 - my longer haul tourer
1992 XJ600S - son's streetfighter
1987 VFR700 - son's latest, in blue/silver
1983 - GL1100I - naked Blue Phoenix (son's, really)
1982 GL1100I - naked bagger Cabernet
1979 GL1000 - Ginger Lynn, but not that Ginger Lynn (Wing and a Prayer)
1978 CB550K - son's cafe (carb issues still vex)
Active Project(s)
1979 GL1000 - Confirmed one owner, with original paperwork. Vetter fairing and bags, off the road in dry, heated storage for 35 years.
Sold
Not lookin' back to avoid regrets