Broken Float Post Repair Update

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Fred Camper
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#16

Post by Fred Camper »

Keep in mind for the float post, it stays dry unless the float pin fails to seal. So it may do just fine. I know JB Weld claims to not soften with fuel but not sure it would pass an immersion test. Inquiring minds want to know.
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#17

Post by redglbx »

If it were me, I would contact Old Fogey to see if he would sell you one of the Pistol Pete repair piece’s, then there is zero worry about epoxy failing and such. Much better way to repair this imho.
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cfairweather
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#18

Post by cfairweather »

RedGlbx is right, fix the mount without any epoxy.

Here is a product similar to Pete's: https://www.randakks.com/deluxe-float-p ... odels/1975

Also, I have just finished designing another similar product that will be 3D printed. I plan on using 10K Rigid resin, which is similar to glass, when it cures. If all goes well, I will probably sell these for about $10.00 each. I use this same resin for making plastic injection molds. I do still need to test this resin in gasoline, but I don't believe it will be affected.
Here is a design picture of mine. I think metal is better than my solution, but mine will work fine at a lower cost.
FloatMount.jpg
FloatMount.jpg (23.43 KiB) Viewed 395 times
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#19

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The float post repair may not be submerged in fuel in the carb but it will be constantly exposed to fuel vapours. I wouldn't trust it long term.

Some years ago I got what I thought was a really good deal on a bike but about a week after it arrived in my garage I started to smell gasoline every time I passed it and when I ran my hand along the bottom of the tank it came away wet. After draining & removing the tank I found that the PO had "patched" the holes with what I thought at the time must be lightweight body filler, which eventually absorbed enough fuel to soften it enough that I could remove it with a putty knife. Looking at your softened epoxy in the video makes me wonder if the filler used was epoxy...
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#20

Post by leonardhcross »

So....would it be the consensus that I should not trust this repaired float post. Instead, I should purchase a used carb body?
The post is broken on carb #3. I assume that I need to replace it with a carb #3. I just rebuilt this one so I would expect to be able to switch over the new o-rings? Can anyone recommend a source for a replacement 758A carb?
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#21

Post by cfairweather »

I see no reason to get a replacement carb. Just avoid using epoxy to fix it. There are three options above that don't require any epoxy. Also, my JB weld test blob is currently in the gasoline. We will soon know if you can trust using it.
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#22

Post by cfairweather »

If you choose to replace the carb, send me yours and $25.00 and I will send you one. I am sure I have at least one.
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#23

Post by Sidecar Bob »

That sounds like a good deal to me.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#24

Post by cfairweather »

You should remove the cap and slide. You would also have to pay shipping.
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#25

Post by cfairweather »

One more option for you. I have a couple of Pete's repair option and will sell one for 30.00 including shipping. I kept a few after I created the bending tool for Old Fogey. It doesn't matter to me which of these options you pick as I am just trying to help you.
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#26

Post by leonardhcross »

Thanks all for the great feedback. For simplicity sake, I will order one of the Randakk post repair "billet" kits. I wonder whether my initial epoxy repair attempt will make this new repair more difficult. I guess I should have chosen this option in the first place. But, in my own defense, Randakk's site does not mention that the epoxy may not hold up with the newer gas. Has anyone posted this repair on this forum?
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Chainman
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#27

Post by Chainman »

https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=59094

I tried both
The old fogey bracket was a better fit

There's a couple of pics in the above thread
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#28

Post by cfairweather »

The JB Weld failed the "10 day gasoline test." I have used this for a couple of post repairs in the past, but never again. Some good news though... The Rigid 10K resin passed this same test, so my 3D float mounts will work just fine. I plan on ordering some more resin soon so I can make a bunch of these. The resin is $300.00 a liter and the tank is $150.00, so I will have to sell 45 of the mounts to break even. Sounds like another losing proposition, doesn't it? :)
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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#29

Post by Rat »

Why would you stop now ???

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Re: Broken Float Post Repair Update

#30

Post by Fred Camper »

Yes, you are doing this for sport, and everybody pays for sport in some way. Your actual costs may be higher...
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1977 GL1000 BADDOG (April 2012 BOTM)
1976 LTD - '993 LTD...and so it begins'

You should remember that it's peace of mind you're after and not just fixing the machine. R.Pirsig
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