winter

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Paola Zago
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winter

#1

Post by Paola Zago »

winter is coming here, and with the bad season the use of our motorcycles is decreased and only a few will go out in the few days of sunshine. How do you recommend preparing the ones that will surely not be used until spring? I empty the carburetors, disconnect the batteries, put a few drops of oil in the cylinders, run the engine a little without current, inflate the tires, put wooden boards under the wheels, and then ???
Paola (Italy)
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5speed
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Re: winter

#2

Post by 5speed »

you do more then I do Paola. :mrgreen:
I put sea foam in the full gas tank, turn the petcock off and let it run till it quits.
remove the battery so I can put it on the trickle charger over the winter and call it a day.
oh..and I put mothballs around the tires to keep the mice from feasting on the wiring harness.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Lucien Harpress
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Re: winter

#3

Post by Lucien Harpress »

I do the same as 5speed, but replace the seafoam with Marine Sta-Bil. I haven't had any major problems yet.
1997 Valkyrie- Light Cutomization, but Too Busy Riding
1980 KZ1300- Bike's Haunted
1976 GL1000 (Yellow)- It Runs (Poorly) and Doesn't Leak (Mostly)
1974 Velosolex 3800- Better Than Walking
1972 CB750- Broke the Chain And Ate the Motor
1969 CT90- The Most Fun You Can Have on 90ccs.
1965 CA77 Dream- Needs a Full Teardown, but Complete

All advice I give is only valid until an expert corrects me.
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flyin900
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Re: winter

#4

Post by flyin900 »

5speed wrote: Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:57 am you do more then I do Paola. :mrgreen:
I put sea foam in the full gas tank, turn the petcock off and let it run till it quits.
remove the battery so I can put it on the trickle charger over the winter and call it a day.
oh..and I put mothballs around the tires to keep the mice from feasting on the wiring harness.
So running it with the mechanical fuel pump, or an electrical one on the GL1200; isn't it hard on the unit? If you have done this for a number of years with no issues I will give it a try next season. I have been draining the carbs onto a diaper placed under the float bowls, which is both messy and tricky.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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flyin900
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Re: winter

#5

Post by flyin900 »

Paola Zago wrote: Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:32 am winter is coming here, and with the bad season the use of our motorcycles is decreased and only a few will go out in the few days of sunshine. How do you recommend preparing the ones that will surely not be used until spring? I empty the carburetors, disconnect the batteries, put a few drops of oil in the cylinders, run the engine a little without current, inflate the tires, put wooden boards under the wheels, and then ???
Paola (Italy)
I think you have it covered there Paola, doing more than most people and the boards are a good idea. With the tires sitting on concrete, or the boards they will develop flat spots over the winter. I always did that with my classic cars in the past too.
Interesting in the spring when on the initial ride the first few miles the tires are lumpy, at least that is my experience from them sitting.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: winter

#6

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I have a shed in the backyard for whichever bike I'm not currently using to hibernate in and my summer bike went into the shed on Nov.5 this year.
When I move a bike to the storage shed I drain the fuel from the bike's tank (I usually put it into the other bike's tank), then start the bike and drive it around the house and into the shed on the fuel that is in the carbs. Once it is in the shed I let it run until it stalls, then open the float bowl drain screws to let the remainder out (into a rag on top of the GoldWing's engine or into a container below the CX's drain tubes).
After that I remove the battery, put a plastic bag under the air box cover to keep wildlife out and cover it with old bed sheets (they keep dust off but won't keep moisture in), close & lock the shed and take the battery back to the garage.
I used to connect the battery to a solar battery maintainer but I have converted both bikes to use the same battery so now I just put it into the other bike.
Some years ago I added a second tank attached to the GoldWing's sidecar and started leaving that tank full (with fuel stabilizer added). It is plastic so it can't rust out and it would be a lot easier to remove for cleaning if fuel went bad in it (have you ever removed a GoldWing's tank?)
BTW: If the carbs have been drained you need to fill them before the engine can start. You could do that by cranking the starter motor until the fuel pump fills the float bowls but it is a lot easier on the starter motor and battery if you disconnect the fuel line from the petcock and pour 45ml of fuel per carb into it (180ml for a GoldWing, 90ml for my CX).

I am a firm believer that the tank should always be drained before storage, and for 3 very good reasons:
1) Have you ever seen what happens to gasoline if it is left in a tank for several years? Even the best fuel stabilizer is only good for a few months before the fuel starts to evaporate. First the fuel turns to jelly, then it hardens. It's not pretty and not easy to clean out.
When you put a bike into storage there is no absolute guarantee that you will be taking it back out of storage again in 6 months or less. I have left bikes stored for several years on a few occasions, and it wasn't always planned.
My GoldWing's original owner had a workplace injury during the winter that ended his use of motorcycles and the bike ended up "stored" for 10 years (6 of them outside) before I got it and I stored it in my garage for 2 more before I put it on the road. Fortunately, he drained the tank before storage because when I removed the fuel gauge sender to look inside it was as clean as when it came off the line in Marysville in '83. It has been drained every winter since then and it was still clean & shiny inside the last time I looked.
My GoldWing parts bike was stored with the tank full (+ stabilizer) for 2 or 3 years; The stuff that came out of it smelled rank and the tank would need a lot of effort before it was usable.

2) During normal use a certain amount of moisture finds it's way into a fuel tank from filling up in the rain, condensation from moist air entering the tank due to driving on a rainy/humid day, &c. Water is heavier than gasoline so if you leave the tank full the water can never evaporate. If it can't evaporate it will eventually find another way out (this is why tanks always rust out at the lowest point).

3) I don't need to tell you how dangerous the fumes from a vented fuel tank can be if the place you store your bike is also your shop. Not to mention the spill if it gets knocked over or the tank rusts out & starts to leak.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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5speed
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Re: winter

#7

Post by 5speed »

flyin900 wrote: Tue Nov 16, 2021 2:03 pm

So running it with the mechanical fuel pump, or an electrical one on the GL1200; isn't it hard on the unit? If you have done this for a number of years with no issues I will give it a try next season. I have been draining the carbs onto a diaper placed under the float bowls, which is both messy and tricky.
mine has a mechanical fuel pump and it's never caused any issues.
I wouldn't advise doing that with an electric pump though as the fuel also cools the pump.
I would pull the fuse for the pump then let it run till it quits.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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flyin900
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Location: Canada

Re: winter

#8

Post by flyin900 »

mine has a mechanical fuel pump and it's never caused any issues.
I wouldn't advise doing that with an electric pump though as the fuel also cools the pump.
I would pull the fuse for the pump then let it run till it quits.
[/quote]

Ok that sounds like a better idea then on the GL1100. I ran out of diapers anyway, so no need to reload. crossy.gif
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Sidecar Bob
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Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario

Re: winter

#9

Post by Sidecar Bob »

You still need to drain the carbs. When there isn't enough for the engine to run there's still a few spoonfuls left in each carb that can leave enough varnish to cause problems when it evaporates.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
User avatar
flyin900
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Posts: 1489
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:50 pm
Location: Canada

Re: winter

#10

Post by flyin900 »

Ok I will only need a half a diaper then, it makes sense though to drain the rest to avoid dried gas ⛽️ in there.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
User avatar
5speed
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Location: Nova Scotia Canada

Re: winter

#11

Post by 5speed »

Sidecar Bob wrote: Tue Nov 16, 2021 6:13 pm You still need to drain the carbs. When there isn't enough for the engine to run there's still a few spoonfuls left in each carb that can leave enough varnish to cause problems when it evaporates.
anim-cheers1
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
Gowing
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Re: winter

#12

Post by Gowing »

I hoping non ethanol with sta bil will last 5 months in my full tank before it faze separates.
Dave

1975 GL 1000
1980 XS650
1981 ct110
1972 F7 KAW 175
2000 moby blaze 40cc
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Chihuahua #2(Blaze)
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: winter

#13

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I left my auxiliary tank filled with stabilized E10 and I expect it will be fine when I take it out of storage in 6 or 7 months.

The problems come when something happens and it ends up stored for several years....
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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