MotoNudo Build

From basic novice to the hard core cutomizing. Sharing tips, tricks and knowledge. Feel
free to ask question or give us your "2 cents".

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Lads
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#106

Post by Lads »

Made some progress on the drive shat and swing arm. OF thinks the needle bearing remnants are from an old shaft. It has cleaned up well.

Is moly grease the way to go for the needle bearings?
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Lads
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#107

Post by Lads »

Got the brake lever off after much pounding. It was significantly rusted.
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wingrider
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#108

Post by wingrider »

Yep, they can be stuck on good! Now time to do a little modification to get a grease zerk in there!
2002 1800 Wing
2001 Valkyrie Interstate
1978 1200 EFI Wing with Motorvation Coupe Royale sidecar
1977 1200 Wing cafe/bobber project
1974 Suzuki GT550
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#109

Post by Lads »

Tap the brake sleeve I assume?
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#110

Post by wingrider »

Yep, tap the brake pedal sleeve, and be cautious as to where you put the zerk. I seem to recall that there is something about it in shoptalk.
2002 1800 Wing
2001 Valkyrie Interstate
1978 1200 EFI Wing with Motorvation Coupe Royale sidecar
1977 1200 Wing cafe/bobber project
1974 Suzuki GT550
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#111

Post by Lads »

So, crappy day. Had the timing down and was syncing the carbs on my bench setup. Next thing I know, white smoke, cycling RPM's, and dark grey coolant water. Blown gasket? I took off he heads, again, and one gasket was stuck to both sides and a piston seemed to have a oily residue. The other gasket came off clean with only a orange sticky residue around the gasket area. I am going to order some more gaskets (more $), clean the surfaces, again, and put her back together.

I used OEM gaskets, put some anti-seize on the head bolts to ensure a good torque setting, and torqued to specs. Anything else I should do?

Really bummed out on this one. I was hoping to get it on the frame soon..
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#112

Post by Lads »

Taking a break from the engine. I am looking at buying an m-unit from motogadget for lighting and starter control. I am going to sell off the lighting control unit, 7V regulator, resistor assembly, etc. but I am wondering about the purpose of the diodes as they relate to the starter switch, starter disconnect, etc. Any thoughts? can I get rid of the diodes?
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#113

Post by sunnbobb »

Sunnbobb, I had a couple,of questions for you. I am looking to lower the stance of the bike slightly. Any feel for the easiest way to do that? Lower the tree on the forks? Shave the rear shock?

I am sticking with the stock "tank" instead of the custom idea I had, maybe a later project. I am looking at clip-on bars to lower the riders stance as well. Do you think progressive shocks are in order? I am 185, probably will have a passenger every so often. I have heard various opinions, figured you may have looked into this.
Hi Lads, I just saw this. Sorry for the delay. To lower the rear, I use Progressive 420 shocks. You can order them in several lengths. The spring should be around a 110-120. On the front end, you can go with either a smaller diameter rim, or slip your forks up an inch in the tree. Would not hurty to pu progressive springs in to stiffen up the front.
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1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
1983 gl1100 mint restoration "Kristen"
1985 Aspencade..pondering.
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#114

Post by Lads »

Got the engine back on the bench after painting and now having barb problems. Significant flooding, coming out the exhaust connections, on the 2-4 side. After I disconnect the gas, the bike will run for another few minutes from all the gas in the system.

Anything else this could be other than the float? I want to make sure I check all potential problems when I get in there.
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ericheath
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#115

Post by ericheath »

Could be three areas, float valves, oring between carb and plenum, and the plenum gasket between the plenum halves. To check, bike or carbs level, dry the carbs off, remove the slides and caps, dry the venturi throats off, and turn the gas on. Watch for leaks. To narrow down the leak faster, cut and fit a piece of paper in the plenum base to see where it occurs first. If it's the plenum gasket, it will get wet in the center along the seam. If it comes from the sides, you now know which carb/carbs leak. Dry they off again and repeat this time watching in the opening for the slides. If it is coming from the brass jets, it's a float valve. If it comes down the venturi from the plenum side, it's the fat o-ring that seals the fuel port between the plenum and carbs. All easy fixes, but carbs have to come off. Do yourself a favor and rig a test source of a liter of fuel from six feet above the rack and test it before reinstalling on the bike.

If your float gaskets are aftermarket, they are likely junk. Another issue is cheap bowl gaskets which fit nicely dry, but swell and interfere with the floats when gas hits them. You can see this if you're paying attention when you first remove the bowl. Good materials like Randakks don't swell.
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77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
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Lads
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#116

Post by Lads »

Thanks, used Randakk's kit. The floats were on the bike so not sure if they are original but I think so. One of the float towers was broke and might have interfered with the low level stop. I did not replace the float valves.
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#117

Post by Lads »

I plan on taking the carbs off the silver bike and replacing #2-4 assembly. The #4 float tower was broken and I think that is what Is causing the flooding problem. The missing tower prevents the float stop from working. I have all the jets, gaskets,orings from the carb I just rebuilt and I will transfer them to the silver bike's carb assembly and then reattach to the #1-3 assembly I had already rebuilt.

This is what I found when I started taking apart #2-4 on the silver bike. Proof that it has been sitting for 30 years. Worst I have ever seen.
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#118

Post by CYBORG »

That is pretty bad, but I have saved ones that looked worse
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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robin1731
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#119

Post by robin1731 »

Just make sure they are the same carb numbers. I just did a set of carbs from a bike that had a plate on it that expired in 1984. They were cleaner than the one's I did last week that had sat for 8 years. I know why. ;)
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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Re: MotoNudo Build

#120

Post by Lads »

I have a lot of catching up to do on this thread. Many of you have seen me popping up on other threads with electrical, brake, and various other topics.

Took a break from the carbs. I am going to check the bench sync but I have exhausted many of the great suggestions here and the list from Randakk's blog. Just really tired of screwing with them and need a distraction. i am going to concentrate on getting the bike put back together and then do another carb check right before I out the radiator and heat shroud in.

I got the wheels back from the shop. They laced 16" HD wheels on my hubs. I painted them black. Preped them real good and decided to do the rattle can route. I was concerned about powder coat holding up with the spokes and figured I could touch them up myself as required. Also painted the engine, same approach, satin black to keep the shiny down but still allow for easy cleaning.

Rebuilt the swingarm, greased all the appropriate joints and added a grease fitting to the rear of the swingarm in conjunction with the new seal from Wingovations.

Got new lines for the front/rear brakes and new hydro clutch. Decided to go with the double banjo on the fronts since I had a brake switch on the 94 masters I bought.

Also did the electrolysis method for the tank de-rusting, it went great. I used the Arm & Hammer detergent from wally world and made sure to clean the base metal often. Please note that anything in the solution that is rust will disappear (that's the point) and includes rusty output screens and the tiny screw that connects the fuel sending float to the shaft.

Here are a few pics of the current state. Sorry I don't have the pics of the individual work. My iPad went missing a while back and it had all the pics on it.
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