As I tend to be long winded. I'll post this photo of the final swing arm mod (
less a few things). If you read on I'll share some
of my myths & realities of installing a wire wheel on an 1100.
Followed by the 'How To' on this swing arm
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Once upon a time....
I had this great idea I'd put spoke'd wheels on my next build. I skimmed several posts
that touched on spline compatibility etc. Well here is what I learned via 'seat o' the pants'.
The Final Driven flange (5 or 6 bolt thingee with splines) Does mesh with years '75-'84.
However..... here is where the comedy insues.
This is what a properly engaged ('75-'76 spoke'd) final looks like from the inside
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..but when you put the flange from the spoke'd wheel to the 1100 type final drive you get this Not quite all the way and the retaining nuts come in contact
with the casting.
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Now lest you think,
"Oh, I know why that is! I'll just trim those bolts.
All that you will do is move on to the next can of worms.
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You see it seems Honda either
through development or gotcha technology, changed up the dust seal approach in the later
model years
(If there is a wiz bang reason for this, I'll yield to anyone who wants to point it out.).
This seal, works on the OUTside of the flange. Your spoke'd hub flange will just crush & burn this set-up.
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Seal contacts here on later models.
It goes on and on, but I will leave you with one more.
the older style 1000 spoke'd bearing center does not fit deep enough into the 1100 style
pumpkin
(we says 'punkin'). Because of this little ridge.
"No problem" you say. "I have a friend at Mac Daddy Machine Shop. We'll knock
that sucker right off there"
Again, Honda is ahead of us. Right underneath that ridge the casting has a hollow spot.
Any machining here will make it precariously thin.
Soooooo... What have we learned (many of you probably knew. I'm slow).
If you are going to use spokes. You are going to need the 1000 final drive.
The floor is open to my error.
Le Swingarm...
So presented with the reality of using a 1000 Final Drive the swing arm had to be made to fit.
Why? Because the GL1000 unit is longer than the GL1100 set-up.
I chose to go with the rectangular look of the 1100 vs. cast 1000
Why? No real reason
other than Oldboy did an awesome job grafting a 1000 swinger and I thought I'd
try a different way. Also Lucky is getting the pull shock treatment.
I started by measuring a known distance from the axle. The 45deg. cut is for stress
reasons. Better to stagger or angle a splice than a straight cut.
With the cut made, I could get a visual of what was ahead. That gap is exactly 1". With the
E-bay purchase of another swing arm ($14.00 and I got the shaft!). I cut a 1" longer specimen
to reattach.
..but here lies the challenge. To get the proper axle overhang we run into this miss match.
By making this cut here at the axle I hope to offset the 'wish bone' effect. I will weld this up
with an internal backing plate.
Here we are loosely mocked up. I'm going use the actual hub to tack up.
Cleaned up with shock mount removed.
other side...
Here you can see how the left side arm runs.
NOW I can properly dish my rear wheel to center.
If we can't fix it, we can fix it so no one else can.
the Condor BOTY 2011
Ol' Sparky BOTM Dec. 2011
Lucky #13 BOTY 2018
I am in awe of your mad skills. I know I could cut the stuff up, but getting that end result, well I ain't there yet.
, but to me they're beautiful.