My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

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John Schmidt
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My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#1

Post by John Schmidt »

Here's the first in a string of pics that document some of the mods done during construction. Hope they're somewhat interesting and at times a bit educational for future projects of your own.
It took some trial and error to get the right height for this front tank mount. The height had to do with having the bottom of the tank be even & parallel with the horizontal frame member. There's also a brace going across underneath but not visible in the picture. All the welding for this was done before painting the frame, which was via rattle can from Home Depot, believe it's called "hammered black."
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The tank fastened down in front. I found I will need to add some rubber sleeving along the frame members on each side, the tank will hit it slightly from a good jar while moving. Both front and rear mounts have a nut welded underneath, so much easier to get the bolts started that way.
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Location of the rear mounting strap, note the hinge welded to the cross piece. This shot gives you an idea of just where the cross member had to be located.
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Better shot of the hinge. Now, if I need to get to the air filter, fuses, petcock, etc., I just remove the front bolt and tip the tank up. As you can see, the fuel line plumbing isn't in place just yet.
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A second short group of pics re. the overflow tank I added since with the gas tank now in place I couldn't use the ugly plastic one it came with. I filled the OEM tank to the marks so as to determine the capacity needed. I got this SS tank from Speedway and mounted it thusly, the clear tube you see lets you know the level of coolant in the overflow.
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Side shot showing the mounting.
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1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson ;) Image
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John Schmidt
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My 1200 resto-mod with pics-2

#2

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Although the throttle cables were new, I found the "pull" cable much too long so I went about trying to figure out how to shorten it myself rather than have it done commercially. I did the same thing for the choke cable as well. Here's what I came up with.
As you can see, one cable is much longer than the other.
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Here's what I made to create the lead knob on the end. The holes to the left are for the bolt to clamp the halves together. The hole with the channel in the long piece is only halfway through, the short piece is clear through.
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Once clamped together, I drilled a small hole through to the holes as shown above.
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Next, lay your cable into the channel as shown(a short section used for demo purposes). Before clamping shut, fray the end of the cable slightly so as to create a wider point of attachment for the lead, making it more solid to prevent pulling out of the lead plug. Notice the solder is half tin, half lead, solid core. And use plenty of paste and be sure to clean the hole each time before doing a second cable. I put the long piece in a vice for stability, used a BernzOmatic torch and heated the paste just a tad, then apply the solder. When it starts to run out of the channel where the cable is inserted, remove the heat and use a straight blade to scrape across the top of the hole where the solder is running over. Let cool for a couple minutes(very important....don't ask), then loosen the bolt and separate. Once it's out you'll have a nice round barrel shaped lead knob that only needs a little dressing up to fit perfectly.
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Here's the finished product, factory unit on the left, mine on the right before any finish work. It almost fit without doing anything, just a bit too long.
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1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson ;) Image
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My 1200 resto-mod with pics-3

#3

Post by John Schmidt »

First pic is nothing more than a recommendation when installing a water pump. And, it can be used any time you're trying to insert new rubber(read o-rings) into a metal housing with a tight fit. I had already installed a new water pump prior to changing out the motor so didn't want to leave the used one in place on the '85 replacement. If you've ever replaced the water pump, you know that sometimes getting that large o-ring to slip into the housing without damaging it can try men's souls. So....what to do? Go the the medicine cabinet and get that bottle of regular rubbing alcohol and douse the o-ring and the housing it goes in with a good quantity of the alcohol. The impeller body with that new o-ring will almost fall into place with little to no resistance. The alky will evaporate quickly and leave no residue, something that can't be said about spraying with WD40 or similar. In fact, I use it to run wire bundles through protective tubing....or any time you're trying to move something flexible against a solid; rubber against metal, plastic against metal, wiring against rubber or plastic tubing. The list goes on. Try it sometime, I keep a small spray bottle on my bench for just that purpose.
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Next, here's some pics on mounting the rear fender so as to have it move with the swingarm. I tried a couple different approaches but this one seemed to work out the best with the least amount of effort(main goal).
Full view shot of the right side mount. All I did here was cut out a piece of aluminum large enough to drill a hole for the axle, then weld a nut on the back for ease of installing the brace.
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Close-up of the right side mount.
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Left side took some trial and error for shaping after welding the nut on the backside. I ground the paint off far enough up the s/a to give me room for the welding clamp.
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Finished product for the left side mount for the brace.
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The front fender mount, using a piece of rubber I bolted it directly to the swingarm as shown. The final fitting isn't done in this picture but gives you the idea how I went about it. I first narrowed that end of the fender back about 3", cutting at an angle as shown to clear the s/a, then simply bent the front lip 90 degrees to sit on the s/a. After polishing the side braces which are SS and installing them, plus this method of attaching the front, the fender is solid and I'm told by a friend that has followed me....it doesn't move except with the s/a.
Image
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson ;) Image
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics-3

#4

Post by desertrefugee »

Nice work, John. I really like the way that left side fender mount came out. Almost looks factory!
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My 1200 resto-mod with pics-4

#5

Post by John Schmidt »

As I stated in the original post, I completely gutted the forks and rebuilt from the bottom up. Disassembling the dive adjust apparatus presented some challenges, mainly because all those pieces had been there since it left the factory in '84.

Disassembly of the forks themselves I'll leave for others, but this little adjuster for the dive adjust was a PITA. After some research, I realized that piece is solid enough to allow me to drill a small hole into the center...just far enough for a self-tapping screw to grab...about 3/8". I then just gripped the screw with a small needle nose and tapped upward on it....out it came. Even after soaking that housing overnight, it was still resistant to moving.
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Before installing the new fork caps, I drilled/tapped them to receive the button head bolts as seen, using a teflon washer under them to be more secure for sealing against leaks.
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With the forks in place and the caps screwed down(easier with extra hands), I then proceeded to fill the forks with the prescribed amount of fluid. This is what I devised to prevent making a mess and it worked quite well. It's an old fuel filter cut open and the guts removed, then attach the small hose you see and run it into the top of the forks where you had wisely first drilled and tapped for removable bolts....done for that sole purpose. It takes a little time due to the small diameter of the tube, but worked great with no mess.
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As for installing the fork caps, it is easier with extra hands but I still devised a method to make that even easier and it went rather slick. I cut a piece of 1x2 maybe 6" long, determined the size of socket needed to fit the caps then drilled a hole in the 1x2 large enough for the socket to move/turn easily. Place the cap in position and press down on the 1x2 while your helper handles the ratchet wrench. Took maybe 30 seconds per fork, and it's even easier when you have the front end lifted so they're extended.

Finally, you need to know we have three institutions of higher(?) learning in the Orlando area. I've noticed a lot of scooters and smaller motorcycles buzzing around the metro area, making one wonder who hit the bee's nest with a stick. I also have noticed the majority will have a book bag strapped on their back, a rather dangerous practice at best. So, since I set this bike up as a solo ride I though just maybe someone might appreciate have the ability to carry "stuff" while commuting. With that in mind, I picked up a NOS GL1200 trunk mount for $55 delivered, then proceeded to cut it down to sit over the rear axle. I devised it in such a way that by loosening the two nuts at the top shock mount and removing two bolts, it can be R&R in minutes.

Full view side shot.
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The long bolts go through holes drilled in the frame just behind the shock mount. The small blocks are spacers needed between the arms and the frame....they stay on the trunk mount arms.
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Here's where the trunk mount arms slip into place on each side, you can see the need for the small spacer blocks.
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Thus ends the dissertation on My 1200 resto-mod, I hope it gives a little insight into some of the work done and how it was accomplished. I know....some are glad I'm done: dancr As for me, I'm doing some of this now: crossy.gif :crosso
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson ;) Image
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics-4

#6

Post by desertrefugee »

Nice stuff. Bookmarked. This build gives an option to those who've contemplated what to do with the non-Standard 1200 shelter when "going naked". I guess the only real problem would be sourcing the Valk stuff. I'm finding that Valkyrie bits are pretty danged expensive. Surprisingly so.

Some really nice ideas, John. Thanks for detailing them. (I like the bolts/holes in the fork caps).
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#7

Post by Track T 2411 »

Great ideas and detailed pics. Thanks for posting them!
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#8

Post by ericheath »

Awesome! Nice work.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#9

Post by 5speed »

very nice.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#10

Post by John Schmidt »

One thing I didn't mention has to do with relocating the regulator since mounting the Valkyrie tank. I'm sure you're aware of the front pocket used to support the OEM tank, but since I now don't have that tank the pocket was empty. That's where I moved the regulator, just drilled a couple holes in the pocket and mounted an aluminum plate I had already drilled for the regulator mounting bolts. Next, attach the plate....then the regulator to the plate. One of the bolts actually is used to mount the fuse box clip. In the fourth picture down from the top, below the fuse box you can see a silver plate and under that is the regulator sticking out. Since that entire area is now open and gets a lot of air moving through, it stays quite cool in comparison the original location. Just thought I'd toss this in the mix for anyone looking to use a different tank approach, it does have its advantages.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson ;) Image
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#11

Post by Easter »

Very nice work and helpful as I am wrapping up the Dumpster Project and looking at an '85 that has been sitting on my back porch for a while. One thing--how about a few shots of the completed bike. Love to see it.
Bikes at present:

83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process :IDTS:
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Re: My 1200 resto-mod with pics.

#12

Post by Easter »

OK never mind, I see the photos in the other thread. Nice looking bike. Looks a lot like a Valkyrie. lolol
Bikes at present:

83 XL 600r with a 2004 XR650L engine
And a slightly worse for the wear BMW GS adventure bike awaiting repair
83 GL in process :IDTS:
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